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Highboy steering

thatK30guy

thatK30guy

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As some of you may know the F250 Highboys have crappy steering setups with the slave assist system and a manual gear box.

I'm wanting to retain the manual box so I don't have to butcher the frame up to get anything else to fit.
Is there any way to use any rams like from AGR or PSC, etc. and go full hydro while retaining the manual box and draglink?
What about rack-and-pinion setup fastened to the front axle?
The cylinder and ram are both super expensive for remanned units so I'd like to look into other options but still want to retain the manual gearbox and front-to-back steering.
 
I don't see why you couldn't upgrade the ram and the pump with aftermarket to maintain the stock style steering with better results.

Is it just a PS pump like GM but it only powers the ram and not the box?
 
On these '67 to '77 Highboys with manual gearboxes, here's what they use (I pulled these pics from eBay):

CV-84-00016-700-MAP.jpg

CV-84-50005-700-MAP.jpg
 
The top pic is the control valve which is also the draglink for these trucks.

I was thinking of retaining the control valve and putting in a new 2" x 8" ram from PSC, AGR, or whoever in place of the stock Ford piece as shown at the bottom pic.

But if there's a way to eliminate the control valve and run something else, what would that be? Keep in mind that I want to retain the current manual gear box. I need some kind of valve like the full hydro's use but if I could find something that can be mated between the gearbox and the steering column shaft, what is out there thats available?
Or maybe I should stick with the Ford control valve instead?
 
Hmm not sure. Looks like an orbital valve on the top pic. You could replace it with an aftermarket orbital, but I don't think that would change anything. All that does is direct the fluid. I would say thats probably fine to run then just upgrade or mod the pump for a better flow rate and add an aftermarket ram. I would stick with a 1.5" Ram though for street driving. 2" will prolly be slow depending on the pressures.

I remember the steering being crappy in my uncles pickup, but dont remember why. Is it just lacking assist power ie. hard to turn?
 
The power steering works in the truck for now. Its just stock and leaky at the cylinder. Pretty common for these. The control valve seems to be holding its own so I would probably look into getting a remanned unit and an aftermarket ram. I just want to upgrade the stock type a little better.
 
I might also look into a control valve from a '73-'75 F150 since it will be just the valve itself and I could get a drag link custom made to fit it so I can utilize crossover steering instead. Problem is, I need to find an old valve to use as a core. But if using this setup, I won't be able to use the manual gear box since its for front-to-back steering.
 
I owned a 75 F250 4x4 a while back, and I messed with that steering setup forever, it was and is a terrible design with parts that are hard to find and even worse to maintain, the ram was always leaking, even with new seals on the old shaft. I finally replaced the whole system with a GM pump and box and never had to deal with it again.
 
boise k5 said:
I owned a 75 F250 4x4 a while back, and I messed with that steering setup forever, it was and is a terrible design with parts that are hard to find and even worse to maintain, the ram was always leaking, even with new seals on the old shaft. I finally replaced the whole system with a GM pump and box and never had to deal with it again.
Click to expand...
I'm aware of the problem with the Ford setup. I'm also aware of several different types of conversions, too. Thing is, I don't want to drill, weld or cobble anything to the perfect frame I've got here.
 
just get the steering setup from a 77.5-79 F-250, and call it good.
 
35dp said:
just get the steering setup from a 77.5-79 F-250, and call it good.
Click to expand...
Too much butchering to the frame to make these boxes work. I've already done my homework and searches about these.
 
thatK30guy said:
I'm aware of the problem with the Ford setup. I'm also aware of several different types of conversions, too. Thing is, I don't want to drill, weld or cobble anything to the perfect frame I've got here.
Click to expand...

I suppose I can see your point, but when I was done I had a far superior setup and where I worked the frame looked better and was much stronger than factory, if I remember correctly it had to be notched and boxed in to fit the GM pump and bracket, then boxed and sleeved for the steering box. Im sure there is a better aftermarket setup these days. At the time my conversion was less money than replacement Ford stuff. Not telling you what to do by any means, just saying what I did.
 
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I mentioned it above and will do it again: I don't want to butcher the frame I've got.

I do not want to cut, heat, bend, weld, etc. to the perfect frame I bought this truck for.

Keep looking for more suggestions. I'm all ears.
 
thatK30guy said:
The top pic is the control valve which is also the draglink for these trucks.

I was thinking of retaining the control valve and putting in a new 2" x 8" ram from PSC, AGR, or whoever in place of the stock Ford piece as shown at the bottom pic.

But if there's a way to eliminate the control valve and run something else, what would that be? Keep in mind that I want to retain the current manual gear box. I need some kind of valve like the full hydro's use but if I could find something that can be mated between the gearbox and the steering column shaft, what is out there thats available?
Or maybe I should stick with the Ford control valve instead?
Click to expand...
Ok Wes I am an admitted tard on this type of steering so bare with me if My questions/ideals are retarded.
Ok so could you make a plate that would bolt to the frame holes that the manual steering box mounted to that would allow you to mount a different steering box with out butching the frame? Basically an adapter between the frame and what ever steering box you could think of? I don't know maybe it could open some possibility's for you. Also after a quick search I saw where guys were using power steering box's from old strait axle Toyota's. I didn't see if it required any frame modification though, and the pitman arm on them travel front to rear like a Highboy. Also they are compact like a manual Ford box.
 
I would think that keeping the stock control valve Orbital thing with the draglink on it is fine. Upgrade the pump if possible and replace the stock ram with a 1.5x8" Insert name brand Ram and it should work?

That should fix the leaky ram problem, and maintain the stock mechanical portion. If you are able to upgrade the pump like the GM's then that should improve how it works.
 
thatK30guy said:
Is there any way to use any rams like from AGR or PSC, etc. and go full hydro while retaining the manual box and draglink?
Click to expand...

You are contradicting yourself here. Full Hydro means no more mechanical linkage after the steering shaft. A full hydro system uses a orbital valve in place of the factory steering box and the only connection is the steering shaft from the column to control fluid flow through the 4 hydraulic hoses which attach to the pump and ram. Like others have said i think you need to keep the orbital portion of the stock system and replace the ram with a PSC ram and make whatever modifcations neccesary to the ram to limit travel (if needed). Dodge did use a saginaw steering box bolted to an adapter plate which bolted to the frame like someone else here already said so that would be an option on how to mount a true FULL HYDRO orbital valve WITHOUT modifying the frame one bit. Once an orbital valve is in place of the stock steering box the rest is easy.
 
Corey 78K5 said:
Ok Wes I am an admitted tard on this type of steering so bare with me if My questions/ideals are retarded.
Ok so could you make a plate that would bolt to the frame holes that the manual steering box mounted to that would allow you to mount a different steering box with out butching the frame? Basically an adapter between the frame and what ever steering box you could think of? I don't know maybe it could open some possibility's for you. Also after a quick search I saw where guys were using power steering box's from old strait axle Toyota's. I didn't see if it required any frame modification though, and the pitman arm on them travel front to rear like a Highboy. Also they are compact like a manual Ford box.
Click to expand...
I had an idea to get a thick plate made and holes drilled on both sides to be tapped and accept the bolt pattern on the stock frame on one side and tapped holes on the other side to accept the new gear box. Thing is, I'm not sure if that would be considered safe or strong if the bolts don't protrude all the way thru and accept a nut.
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
I would think that keeping the stock control valve Orbital thing with the draglink on it is fine. Upgrade the pump if possible and replace the stock ram with a 1.5x8" Insert name brand Ram and it should work?

That should fix the leaky ram problem, and maintain the stock mechanical portion. If you are able to upgrade the pump like the GM's then that should improve how it works.
Click to expand...
This is the idea I'm leaning towards.

Most Highboys use the Bendix type valve/drag link. I'm wanting to use the Garrison type since it has DRE's that screw onto the valve body. The Bendix type does not have threaded inserts and therefore isn't adjustable.

I do think upgrading to a new aftermarket ram would benefit better than a remanned stock type ram. Any reasons to use the 1.5" over the 2"?
 
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