I am looking for installed pics of highsteer with assist on a Dana 60.
CK5
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Highsteer with assist (pics needed)
- Thread starter 84zz4ss
- Start date
shaun89
1/2 ton status
this is from our little group my friends and i created. he did the "do it urself" cheap kit,works great. if u look through all 4 pages i think theres a parts list. http://kissmydiff.freeforums.org/hydro-assist-steering-t622-30.html
sope
1/2 ton status
here are some pics of my setup:
*the shock mounts on the inner C's were welded on a rush before i had to be somewhere. they are ugly, but are plenty strong for now until i get a chance to redo them.
*the shock mounts on the inner C's were welded on a rush before i had to be somewhere. they are ugly, but are plenty strong for now until i get a chance to redo them.
some more. the driver-side fender also needs to be trimmed (pass-side already cut).
once the doubler goes in im gona build my 1480 front driveshaft with a flange on the d60 (similar design to the non-cv toyota driveshafts that are very strong for their size.) it will also allow for probably about the same or more degree than a $$ HAD cv shaft) but i do have a HAD CV shaft for the rear that needs to be shortened as well.
Here is mine. It is similiar too Muddybuddy's.
Thanks guys!!
Now I have a few ideas to kick around.
Now I have a few ideas to kick around.
I was running the factory engine cross-member, no additional skidplate for engine. Those pictures were with 4” lifted TC 52” springs with overloads removed and b52 hangers, netting closer to ~7” of lift. I redrilled the spring perches ~1.5” back from stock location (moving axle further forward), so axle was about 4” forward. Did not have any clearance issues with the arms. If you had less lift, I could see there being clearance issues with cross-member.
Didnt have to touch the cross member. Also worth noting that shackle angles were setup for droop (moved front rear shackle mounts), and not as much uptravel, so that helped avoid clearance issues.
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Beware that if you use a Zero Rate under the front springs that will likely create clearance problems between the rear mounted tie rod and springs.
Good point with the zero rates adding to decreases clearance.
Yeah... im trying to only lift 4” and eventually run 40s just 37s now on built dana 44
That pic above was with 42x14’s for reference, and they were true to size. With 4” lift, tie-rod behind will be tricky.
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I’ve had a small fight with high steer for a while, it’s frustrating. If you end up with the tie rod in front of the axle don’t move the axle forward a lot, I’d keep it to about 1.5” at most. I’m at 3” forward and the drag link and tie rod hit each other.
I tried to go reverse high steer with WFO arms but the tie rod hit the leaf springs before it touched the arms. Even if it had fit the tie rod was only a couple of inches away from the oil pan. I firmly believe that @muddybuddy set up was a unicorn.
Burt4x4
1 Ton First Gen
WFO Xover-High steer w/PSC hydro asst... ( I did this back in 2006 er 07?)
I'm running a super low lift so it's tight but with WFO helping me make it work = it works awesome
I did have some "self clearing" trail denting to the front of my oil pan but hey, now it's all good
I'm using the drag link tied to the tie rod method, works awesome for the low clearance needed for my setup
I'm running a super low lift so it's tight but with WFO helping me make it work = it works awesome
I did have some "self clearing" trail denting to the front of my oil pan but hey, now it's all good
I'm using the drag link tied to the tie rod method, works awesome for the low clearance needed for my setup
So with limited uptravel, it just mainly hurt your articulation?
