Hindsight being 20/20.....

[lectric80]

I would say that 37's with some trimming is doable, and as a general rule you want as little lift as possible. The greater the lift, the less flex you will have. Great if you are running mud, not so great for crawling in the rocks and trails.

And yes, I run 33's on my 80, my buddy runs 33's on his 79, and I have never had issues with rubbing or hitting fenders on mine. My buddy never takes his off-road, but it wouldn't appear to be any different from mine as far as rubbing.

 

[troutbum_mt]

I would say that 37's with some trimming is doable, and as a general rule you want as little lift as possible. The greater the lift, the less flex you will have. Great if you are running mud, not so great for crawling in the rocks and trails.

And yes, I run 33's on my 80, my buddy runs 33's on his 79, and I have never had issues with rubbing or hitting fenders on mine. My buddy never takes his off-road, but it wouldn't appear to be any different from mine as far as rubbing.

I was wondering about that a lot. I mean mine is pretty much stock with 32s and has no issues at all. Granted I haven't really tested it out a TON, but I have flexed it a bit going over downed trees, ruts, etc and didn't rub at all. It is nice knowing that I should be able to handle 36s with 4" of lift. I mean I really can't pass up a FREE set of 36" swampers now can I?!?!?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I hope it does develop. I just got done catching up and have already learned a lot. Still need to go back through and re-read it a few times to make sure I am getting everything.

So is the tire fitment table basically "deceptive"????

http://coloradok5.com/tirefitmenttable.shtml

That chart is quite dated, it probably dates back to the beginnings of this site (which is pushing a decade now). I would put very little merit in that at this point.

Seems to be a few people saying 33s will fit with no lift, 4" lift will accommodate up to 37s or so with minor fender trimming, etc. That chart info was what I was basing a few things off of so am glad I found out differently. Also glad people talked me out of 2 different tire sizes.

33's will fit with pretty minimal trimming, anything more than that and you'll have to cut the fender quite a bit more. If you have a usable suspension that actually flexes (generally 6" or less), 35" tires or bigger will rub no matter what you do, you'll have to trim the fenders.

So far here's what I have learned:

1) Upgrade the axles in case you decide to change the vehicles use in the future (one shot, one kill approach appeals to me....Marine thing)

Upgrading the axles might help durability some but the stock D60 outers aren't really that stout. You're probably in for a lot more money than you think or you're not making too much of an upgrade. Plus you're adding 500 lbs to your vehicle which will likely drop your MPG by 1-2. If you don't need the axles, don't waste the money.

2) Pick a tire size and build for that (most useful advice probably by far that has been given to a stipid newbie like me )

Yep

3) Once decided if this is going to be a dd or a wheeler, use that to decide your tire size, axles, gearing, tranny and transfer case options and then look to a donor for TBI, etc from that donor for my application

Agreed

4) Stop rust as soon as you can because it will just screw you worse on down the road

Sure, depending on how bad it is, how much you care and how long you plan on keeping the truck.

I would say that 37's with some trimming is doable, and as a general rule you want as little lift as possible. The greater the lift, the less flex you will have. Great if you are running mud, not so great for crawling in the rocks and trails.

Lower lift is generally for more stability and greater climbing ability, more flex is just a perk

 

[troutbum_mt]

Well perhaps that table can be updated to help stupid noobs like me Believe it or not, I was placing quite a bit of importance on that chart and then using my intuitive newbie skills to worry about other issues that I really didn't need to concern myself with which lead to a pretty good case of analcranialitis.

Thanks for the advice on upgrading the axles too. All this input really is helping me to plan things out the RIGHT way for my applications.

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That chart is quite dated, it probably dates back to the beginnings of this site (which is pushing a decade now). I would put very little merit in that at this point.




33's will fit with pretty minimal trimming, anything more than that and you'll have to cut the fender quite a bit more. If you have a usable suspension that actually flexes (generally 6" or less), 35" tires or bigger will rub no matter what you do, you'll have to trim the fenders.




Upgrading the axles might help durability some but the stock D60 outers aren't really that stout. You're probably in for a lot more money than you think or you're not making too much of an upgrade. Plus you're adding 500 lbs to your vehicle which will likely drop your MPG by 1-2. If you don't need the axles, don't waste the money.



Yep



Agreed



Sure, depending on how bad it is, how much you care and how long you plan on keeping the truck.






Lower lift is generally for more stability and greater climbing ability, more flex is just a perk

 

[Mudstud]

In my experience, after the 6" Superlift (relatively stiff) and 33" tires and just the corners cut off the back side of the front fenders I would still rub. I had swap bar discos but did rub once with them connected. Depending on what you mostly run an occasional rub ain't gonna hurt anything. Just letting you know that I rubbed with 33s and 6" lift and a tiny bit of trimming.
You can see in this pic how much had been trimmed off teh corners and how they are bent in from still rubbing with 33s. I cut the big chunk off when I went to 35s. Have 36s now and no rub.

 

[BGKYK5]

Although if I had to do it all over again I would buy a completed project that some body is getting out of.

OK, I change my answer. That is the cheapest way to go without a doubt - as long as the PO had his head on straight and didn't build too many problems for you to fix. But then you miss out on all the "fun" and busted knuckes, and oil in your shorts that comes with building your own rig.

 

[dyeager535]

One thing I'll clarify...the '73-80's have different fenders of course, so 33" fitment MIGHT be different than for those of us with '81-91 sheetmetal. In any case, the keys are wheels (stock offset), suspension, and tire width, even for later trucks. However, I've never heard anyone say that the 33x10.5R15's on stock wheels and stock suspension hit, regardless of year.

Stock suspension doesn't travel much, so you can't force the suspension far enough on at least the '81+'s enough to get the narrow 33's on stock wheels to hit.

Sounds like 36's are in the cards, so this is moot, just wanted to mention it.

 

[Blue85]

Stock suspension doesn't travel much, so you can't force the suspension far enough on at least the '81+'s enough to get the narrow 33's on stock wheels to hit.

This is why I don't think the ideal is "as little lift as possible" because that would be stock suspension (or a lowering kit?) which doesn't give enough wheel travel. I would say ideal is in the range of 3-6 inches.

 

[Mudstud]

Teh most flex from a spring is when at ride height it is level. It can then move up and down in equal arcs which equals the greatest amount of travel. The prob is we often can't take advantage of all the up travel a spring has to offer.

 

[BGKYK5]

However, I've never heard anyone say that the 33x10.5R15's on stock wheels and stock suspension hit, regardless of year.

My '89 Blazer hit on the right side when turning left with 32s and stock suspension - but that truck was not straight.