Hmmm blew out bushings on my 5150s Bilsteins

[ryoken]

that's why it failed.. not because of a defective bushing or wrong travel.. i'm sure the other side isn't far away....

 

[Fordum]

Look on any label or for a number stamped on it somewhere. It should start with a 25-.
If you find it, I can give you lengths.
For what its worth, all those models show them as having "5/8 inch ID hourglass bushings"

 

[Fordum]

I was reading the file looking for replacement bushings, and came across this.....
It includes the 5150s.

5100 / 5160 Series
5100 and 5160 Series may only be used for specific applications. Due to the variations in lift kit manufacturers’ systems, it is the responsibility of the installer/end user to confirm that the shocks are dimensionally correct. All lift kits require lowered bump stops to compensate for longer shocks mounted into the OEM location. BILSTEIN will not be liable for damage caused by a compression impact.

 

[badmix]

yea im going to extend the bumpstops or get longer ones and working on the spacer for the bushing so there is no side to side play on the metal sleeve. The pass. side has the same gap and ill put a spacer over there as well.

 

[badmix]

Called Bilstein today, they said its an "hour glass" one piece poly bushing, so yea, I broke it. They are sending me a new one, 4 actually, as they only cost $1.65 each. lol.

I think I also contributed to the bushings demise as Im pretty liberal with silicone spray as Im trying to keep my truck from rusting away on me, so ill spray any part that moves or nuts/bolts with silicone spray, so Im sure I shortened the lift of the bushing, plus with the fact it was able to move on the metal sleeve didnt help.

So, ive got the new bushings coming and I just finished up my spacer. I couldve gone with stacked washers but what is the fun in that. I wanted a tighter fit around the metal sleeve, so I just made my own spacer out of aluminum round stock, ill get pics later on.

Im also going to lower my bumpstop 1.5" since ive got a 2" lift, not sure its necessary but it certainly cant hurt. I just used 1.5" square tubing, cut and drilled it, easy cheesy. lol

 

[dhcomp]

Maybe add a spacer between the frame and bushing so its held in tightly.

This. Even though they may fit on the sleeve tight by the looks of it, they will slide back and forth on the bolt sleeve and distroy the bushing in short order.

Did the exact same thing. Now i push the bolt sleeve to one side, cut it flush, and install with the stock style shock eye spacers. No more issues.

 

[badmix]

New bushing made. lol. Got some aluminum round stock, beats piling up washers

 

[454Sub]

As long as the bumpstop stops compression before the piston inside the shock bottoms out and destroys itself your all good. I set mine up to stop travel at 1.5ins of shock shaft left. Just incase is really crushes the bumpstop it should be good.

 

[badmix]

Well im using factory bumpstops, they are pretty hard solid rubber, so not sure they even compress, so dont know if I need to invest in better ones or replace the 30year old ones with new ones.

 

[454Sub]

Well to check, measure from the middle of the bump to the spring plate. Then measure the shock shaft. If the shaft is longer your golden, if not the shock will bottom first and problems will be yours. Measuring to the middle of the bump SHOULD give you the extra room incase of a harsh bottom out. Thats how I measured mine. I just cut up my bent front driveshaft, added 5in to the factory stop, welded it on and found some nice bumps at the junkyard and bolted them on. Works good, and limits my uptravel just like I wanted.