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homemade ez inch?

tyler__820

1/2 ton status
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Aug 1, 2008
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St. Helens Oregon
Ok so I was wondering if it were possible to make one, maybe 3/8 plate or something? Would this be safe? How would it be done and this is solely for moving my front axle forward about 1.5 inches.
 
yea you can do it, lots of folks have. just look around on here and pirate
 
76zimmer just drilled new holes in the spring perches on his axle. I think he only went an inch but I know he did it recently on the Iron maiden thread.
 
ez-inch / zero rates are dirt cheep for the kit and hardware included if you ask me when you intend to move the axle .

also 3/8 seems a little thin for zero rate / ez inch when used for moving the axle. but yes can be done.

and drilling the axle perch thay say is best at 1" movement max or its to far out to the end and possible brake out.

if i recall these 2 supplyers do offer thinner but you need to ask as not comon thickness.

http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=128

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm
 
I made a set for a buddy at work once, lucked out having 1 inch bar stock laying around.

Dont think id make em for my self, easier just to buy them like said above.
 
3/8" thick would be a no go for repositioning the axle. Half inch would also be too thin. 3/4" would probably get it done but I'd have to double check all the measurements.

The problem is the pockets on the bottom side must clear the spring center pin head. I don't remember the exact measurement of the head but its right at .4" thick. Take that .4" out of your overall thickness and that's what you're left with. On a .5" brick that'd only leave you hundred thou give or take my estimation.
 
Ive made a few sets of them from cutting down overload springs but without redrilling holes to move the axle. They are like 7/8" I think but a pain to drill.

If you want to move the axle I suggest buying a set. Diy4x makes them cheap. If I decide to move my axle that is where I will get them.
 
yep sure can. forward or back no problems.

used a set on a k30 c&c truck to move axle up 1.5" to help match the truck box we put on the back. and we set the box back almost 2" to center it all up. basicly we used what he had on hand to make a good truck.

135" w.b. on c&c truck.
131.5" w.b. on std cab long bed.

so we got the axle centered in wheel opening on the box by moving ahead 1.5" and box back 2" and drilled holes to bolt box on truck. then later he didnt like the 38" tires hitting the front fenders so another set moved the axle 1.5 forward on the dana 60 front. worked perfect.
 
you can just cut the center out of an overload and bolted it on. I didnt want an overload so i cut it for a extra 1" (pic wont upload!):mad:
 
We make zero rates that are either 1/4" or 3/8" thick, I'll have to check which they are. They are meant to move the axle forward/back without lifting the truck so much.
 
I welded a piece of 1/4" to the top of my stock perches in the rear, then re-drilled the holes an inch or so from stock. Not much different than the aftermarket perches that move the spring.
 
yep sure can. forward or back no problems.


Cool......Thanks,


Ever since I finished my doubler install I have been wondering about that...
I could use a little more rear driveshaft length...:D

I even have a set of brand new zero rates sitting on my shelf from a prior project...

Oh boy !!!! more work to do now !! :woot:
 
Ya i really dont want to do it, but im going to browns camp tommarow (saturday) just thought i could do it. But i will order the zero rates when i do the 52 swap up front.
 
if i recall 52 swap with b52 brackets will move the axle forward a little . but i might be wrong its been a long time since i read 52 threads for info.
 
3/8" thick would be a no go for repositioning the axle. Half inch would also be too thin. 3/4" would probably get it done but I'd have to double check all the measurements.

The problem is the pockets on the bottom side must clear the spring center pin head. I don't remember the exact measurement of the head but its right at .4" thick. Take that .4" out of your overall thickness and that's what you're left with. On a .5" brick that'd only leave you hundred thou give or take my estimation.

For some reason I just don't understand what you are talking about.:dunno:
I made my own out of 3/8" plate and a piece of solid 1/2" stainless steel rod I had.I moved my front d60 forward 1" with these.No problems so far.


Ok I reread and reread your statement and got it.I ground the center pin head down to match the 3/8" plate.
 
For some reason I just don't understand what you are talking about.:dunno:
I made my own out of 3/8" plate and a piece of solid 1/2" stainless steel rod I had.I moved my front d60 forward 1" with these.No problems so far.


Ok I reread and reread your statement and got it.I ground the center pin head down to match the 3/8" plate.


I'd be leary of a center pin pulling through on the thinner setups. Maybe overly cautious but from a buisness standpoint, I have to be.
 
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