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Horn not operational / Needed for Inspection

Senorx470

Senorx470

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I have dubbed tomorrow as "Operation Get Inspected" day. Texas requires a working horn for the vehicle to pass inspection. I'm going through the checklist and the horn doesn't work.

Where do I start first to trouble shoot? It seems to have the original steering wheel. Hope tomorrow doesn't turn into a SNFU.
 
Simple/stupid question. Does it have the horn up front under the hood? I ask, because mine was removed. I would then hot wire the horn to make sure it honks (always makes me jump).

Then I pried the little cover off of my steering wheel and when inspecting the horn, could jump the two metal parts with a screwdriver, so I knew the connection between the horn and my steering wheel was good.

Do you have a factory assembly manual? That could be very useful, or you can use the poor mans version: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=141

That's where I would start. I am sure smarter more experienced guys will chime in, but that was the road to getting mine to work.

-Jacob
 
Not sure where it's located, maybe on the fuse block? but there's a horn relay in that circuit somewhere. If you can locate it, check the connection there, could be a bad relay as well.
As someone said, jump 12v to the horn first to determine that it works, then work back from there. It's been a long time since I worked on these old GM vehicles, sorry I can't remember more details.
Check fuse too.
 
Here is one on ebay (truck/blazer is the same manual):
ebay link for manual

Or you can just google "1972 chevy blazer assembly manual" and get some other buying options. I think some sellers are even using amazon. You'll also hear from other guys that the manual is very disorganized.

A1971Blazer made a good point to. The relay is the silver box above and to the left of the steering column on the firewall(pretty sure). It should click if the horn on the column is working properly.
 
Does the cap on the steering wheel just snap off? I don't want to break it.

Ok. Gonna start checking all the suggestions bright and early tomorrow. Hopefully get the K5 past inspection.

Thanks for the link. Gonna order the manual right now.
 
No problem on the link.

Don't over do it but you should be able to pry it off with your fingers or flat tool. The tabs inside can break so just keep working on each side to bring it up.

And your sure your working on a 69-72 steering wheel? Throw up a pic if unsure. My k5's previous owner put in a 73ish one before I bought it, and I didn't even catch it for some time.
 
Found silver relay box to the left and top of the steering column on the firewall. No clicking when I press the horn button. The relay box has a green,red and black cable connected to it.

How do I hard wire the battery to the horn?

 
Last edited:
Removed the steering wheel cap and this is what is behind it.



Removed the silver ring and this is what is behind that.



Where would wires be connected or even have some kind of contact to activate the horn? Scratching my head. I was expecting a wire connection.
 
ekajkrats said:
That dark metal ring can come out. Behind it you will find this: http://www.classicpartsusa.com/product/HRN-5_1972/1972_Truck_Parts_Steering_Column_Items

That is what connects the two metal parts and makes the circuit complete between the horn contact and the metal parts you are already seeing.
Click to expand...

I didn't find that behind the dark metal ring. :doah: I'm guessing I have some parts to order? Would that spring and plunger go in the widest hole in my picture. It appears there is a brass metal strip all the way down in the bottom of that hole.

 
Poor man's diagram also shows the horn button bushing (pink plastic ring) goes under or behind the horn cap retainer with contact and not on top like the PO had it installed. At least that's how I see it, but correct me if I'm wrong.

Looks like I need the canceling cam and horn contact kit. I better get to ordering some parts. LMC good for this or maybe Brothers??

 
Autozone should have that part. Says it's for a 1999 Lexus. I'll give it a shot. Should I pick up a a Multimeter while I'm at it?

How do I hard wire the horn? Just connect positive and negative wires to the horn itself? Any old wires will do or am I looking for a certain gauge? Anything dumb not to do while attempting this?
 
Senorx470 said:
Poor man's diagram also shows the horn button bushing (pink plastic ring) goes under or behind the horn cap retainer with contact and not on top like the PO had it installed. At least that's how I see it, but correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

I think the LMC site diagram is wrong. The plastic retaining clip should be last, keeps the pieces from being pushed off by the spring. If it were down there, there would be no way to make the circuit complete, nor would you need the three holes in the other two metal pieces.

I have ordered once through brother's(via ebay), window cranks and door handles and they got the parts out right away.

I haven't tried lmc. Only thing I hear about them is not to order weatherstripping or sheet metal from them.
 
I understand. At the auto parts store. Let's see if the Dorman part works out. BTW, how did you come to that part number? Is there a database or something?
 
Senorx470 said:
Autozone should have that part. Says it's for a 1999 Lexus. I'll give it a shot. Should I pick up a a Multimeter while I'm at it?

How do I hard wire the horn? Just connect positive and negative wires to the horn itself? Any old wires will do or am I looking for a certain gauge? Anything dumb not to do while attempting this?
Click to expand...

Positive on one side, ground to the body/frame (in my case the radiator support is what i used) on the other side. I had a live wire over there so it made it easy. I use a cheapo multimeter from amazon...and it seems to get the job done.

The horn isn't going to draw much current, and did you see if it was hooked up already? Not sure the gauge of the wire will matter for the horn, but to be safe you could unplug the rest of the system from the battery, and then run just your hot wire over to the horn and try to get it to go off.

I stuck a small but long bolt down the hole where the contact button will go, and then used a screw driver to short the circuit so I could hear the horn relay click. You can try that right now and see if the horn goes off or if the relay clicks over.

Odd that the dorman part is saying for lexus. Here it says for GM 68-89: summit

It is a universal part, so it may take some massaging to get it to work. if you don't want to fuss with it, I would just order from brothers/lmc.
 
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