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Horn not operational / Needed for Inspection

Progress / Checklist

Simple/stupid question. Does it have the horn up front under the hood? I ask, because mine was removed. I would then hot wire the horn to make sure it honks (always makes me jump).

1) Horn is up front and mounted. Hard wired the horn and it works.

Not sure where it's located, maybe on the fuse block? but there's a horn relay in that circuit somewhere. If you can locate it, check the connection there, could be a bad relay as well.

2) Bought and installed a new relay, so we should be good to go there.

I just checked, and if you unplug the wires from the relay, and put a jumper from the red to green cable, you should get a horn honk.


3) Unplugged the wires from the relay. I jumped the red to the green and horn activates. We are good up to the new relay.


So the break has to be in the column, correct? I'm not getting a ground? Is the little PIN suppose to go all the way through the spring and touch the brass? If so, mine isn't long enough. Also you all mentioned a FUSE, but I couldn't find a "HORN" label on the fuse block. Is another fused connected to the horn?
 
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Inside the column is where I have not ventured.

Let me take my button off again and make sure the pin is supposed to touch. Maybe someone else will chime in, as I am getting stumped.

I linked earlier to greg's posts of wiring diagrams, but here is a blown up version:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3571/3396610207_8459575fe1_o.jpg

Top left you can see the arch that has the wires for the column.

I also could not find a fuse for the horn, nor details about it (or it's existence) in this forum or others.

Do your hazards works, turn signals etc?
 
I searched the interwebz and couldn't find a mention of any "horn fuse" as well.

My turn signals are all functional. Hazards do not function.
 
Inside the column is where I have not ventured.

Let me take my button off again and make sure the pin is supposed to touch. Maybe someone else will chime in, as I am getting stumped.

I linked earlier to greg's posts of wiring diagrams, but here is a blown up version:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3571/3396610207_8459575fe1_o.jpg

Top left you can see the arch that has the wires for the column.

I also could not find a fuse for the horn, nor details about it (or it's existence) in this forum or others.

Do your hazards works, turn signals etc?

A picture of yours would be great too, if it isn't too much trouble.
 
What range would I use with my multimeter to test resistance on the ground (black wire)? Pretty sure there is a break in the ground wire in between the steering wheel and relay. The black wire goes behind the fuse box and then I have no idea where it goes after that. I'm getting frustrated and bold. Think I'm going to remove the fuse box from the firewall and see where the black wire goes from there.

Is there a way to access the steering column wiring without removing the steering wheel?
 
So, looks like I was wrong. My horn works, and I thought it was just because I had to modify the dorman kit I bought.

But look a this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=515103

Post # 7, the picture in the bottom right shows the order to install the parts. Guys say they have to modify the sleeve they got from LMC. Sorry I got the order mixed up for you.

For resistance, you can set it to the 200 on the ohm side. If there is continuity you should get 0 ohms of resistance.
 
Someone has probably already said this, but I'm not going to read back through everything. Make sure you've cleaned up all your steering column horn pieces and the in the steering wheel. If they get rusty it can cause it to not ground properly. Make sure every piece of metal is shiney, including the little metal rod.

shown in pics on my thread page 6 halfway down.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297127&page=6
 
I'll be getting a steering wheel puller tomorrow. Any tips/tricks on pulling the wheel off? Should I mark the wheel to the column so I can put it back on the way it went off? I did a search and couldn't find any threads about removing the
steering wheel.
 
I'll be getting a steering wheel puller tomorrow. Any tips/tricks on pulling the wheel off? Should I mark the wheel to the column so I can put it back on the way it went off? I did a search and couldn't find any threads about removing the
steering wheel.

Its easy, you can mark the splines if your wheel is perfectly centered when your driving straight, if it's not then it doesn't matter. Its only aesthetic. Otherwise just take off the retaining nut and pull the wheel with the puller.
 
You may not need a puller. The stock wheel is big enough that you may be able to wiggle it off. Mine does.
 
Got the steering wheel removed.

Canceling cam is there.



Removed canceling cam to find this.



Where is the brass tab in the cancelling cam suppose to ground? I'm more
Confused.
 
Progress!!

Apparently there is suppose to be a brass "button" in that empty hole in the upper right of the turn signal switch. I short wired the inside of the hole to the steering shaft and the HORN went off. PROGRESS!

Note the brass button on the new switch. I have no idea what happen to mine.

Should I just replace the whole turn signal switch? Anybody do this before? Is it pretty straight forward?

Chevy Truck Turn Signal Switch.jpg
 
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From the way those screw heads are buggerd up, somebody was in there in the past.
Fishing the wiring harness is the aggravating part, not difficult but you may have to drop the steering column down to get in there to the connector.
If there's a junkyard nearby, most all those old chevy trucks used the same parts inside the steering wheel(s), turn signal switch etc. May be easier just to find a used contact "button".
 
While in there, can you tell what is keeping the hazards from working? Glad you have made some good progress!

If you're having trouble with your hazards/ directional try cleaning up the thin metal contact strips. Mine were just dirty and gunked up, once I cleaned them so there was clean metal to metal contact they worked again.
 
If you're having trouble with your hazards/ directional try cleaning up the thin metal contact strips. Mine were just dirty and gunked up, once I cleaned them so there was clean metal to metal contact they worked again.

I'm gonna try and clean them up a bit and see what happens. Is a little rubbing alcohol with a Qtip ok to use for this task?

I think I might try to replace my contact "button" first and see if I can get it to work that way. I'm reading these switches are very rebuildable. I'm trying not to get into column disassembly if I don't absolutely have to.
 
alcohol with a q tip is fine, but i the stuff is sticky it might not do the trick to easily. I scrapped off the gunky stuff with a small flat head screwdriver. Real thin one, use it for computer screws and stuff. then wiped with a solvent.
 
I found a brass button, Spring and retainer plate for my cancelling cam on another board. I paid 5.00 bucks for it and just rebuilt mine. I put it all back together this morning and my horn is officially operational. My K5 passed inspection this morning with flying colors!

I couldn't have done it without you guys. I'm actually proud that I did it the right way and was able to figure it out finally. I'm learning as I go along and having a blast along the way so far. This turned out to be an epic horn thread and should be a stickie for HORN 101. I hope others will someday do a search and this thread will help them out.

With my brass ground button installed.

 
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