Hot hubs part 2

[k5ryder]

Well, I replaced the froze up adjusting screw that I showed yall last night. I never took the passenger side apart last night to see if it was froze up or not. I went to go replace it and it was fine, free and moving. I did notice that there was more grease on all of the passenger side components (behind the drum) then on the drivers side (the one with the froze up adjusting screw). See Pictures below. I adjusted both sets of shoes and put the wheels back on. I didn't get to notice if the passenger side drum was loose on the shoes or not because I feel like it was kinda dragging or sticky due to the grease. I took the blazer for a test drive and could immediately tell that the brakes felt a lot better. I also noticed the front brakes were making some noise when I would brake. The noise it made, made my wife and I say "it sounds like the rotors are warped". So, we drove to oriellys (1/2 mile away) to get new rotors and pads. Once I got home I felt the hubs and they were not as hot as my initial complaint but still hotter then the rear and I couldn't believe how hot they got just driving that 1 mile total with test drive and trip to oriellys.

I'm stumped. My plans were to put the new pads and rotors on tomorrow night but I don't want to put them on, still have the heat problem and ruin my new rotors and pads.
Should I put the new stuff on or not? Should I drive the blazer to work tomorrow and she how she does? Should I pull the hubs and replace all the bearings?
I've read all the write ups about changing out the hubs and bearings but some part of me doesn't feel confident in doing it. Should I just say "F" it and just drive it until something goes wrong?

 

[Z71paramedic]

You have to pull the hubs and bearings to change the rotors anyways. Look at the bearings and races to make sure they're not scored at all and either replace them if they are or re pack them and call it good. You'll also get to tell if your calipers will collapse or not and clean up the slides.

As far as the rears, it looks like you may have a leaking axle seal on the passenger side. You should probably fix that sooner than later because the gear lube can ruin your shoes and obviously lubricant isn't something that's good for brakes.

 

[375 H&H]

the grease on the brake drum components is a bad thing. that grease is making that drum basically inoperable. grease reduces friction and brakes operate with friction. i'd find the source of the grease and fix it first. it's probably the axle seal seeping.

I haven't read the whole thread, but warm hubs is not in itself a terrible thing. too much bearing pre-load can do it, as can the heat soaking in from the rotors. if you can hold your hand on them, they are not burning up yet. if you can't hold your hand on them, too hot!

as always, YMMV

 

[chulisohombre]

They are going to get a little hot from the friction of braking as said. Too hot to touch is generally a problem. The hub itself you have to pull off and press out the out studs ro get the rotor off the hub. As said you must pull the bearings to check them anyway to get the hub off to change the rotor.and discoloration or pitting on the bearings and they need replaced. I didn't even think of them being too hot because of too much preload on the bearings. They only need 35 ft lb and then back off a little and tighten to slight drag on the hub to preload the bearings. Then tighten the locking nut down I believe to 100 ft lb. At about 4/32 on the brake pads you will get a squeal when hitting the brakes from the wear indicators. Any farther than that and the pads will wear into the rotors not long after. As said you will have to pull the rear axle shaft on that side if the rear axle to replace that seal. Gear oil doesn't help your braking situation. For that you have to pull the center pin on the spider gears and pop out the c-clip on that side axle to get the shaft out. Then pop out the seal an replace with a new one.

 

[k5ryder]

When you say I need to press the studs out if the hubs to get the rotor off do you mean I need to hit it with a hammer?

 

[Smokinthehippies]

When you say I need to press the studs out if the hubs to get the rotor off do you mean I need to hit it with a hammer?

technically that's possible, but you don't want to reinstall that way.

no normally you use a shop press to slowly pop out the studs,
put the new rotor on the hub, and then press the studs back thru on the hub w/ new rotor. the studs basically bolt the hub/rotor together thru a press/friction fit.

 

[k5ryder]

I just got off the phone with Orielly. I ordered all new bearing and seals for the front and mile marker lock out hubs. I guess all I need now is a case of beer for tonight.

 

[Fordum]

Couple of points:
Brakes turn kinetic energy to heat. That is their job, so they are going to get hot as they work.
And even too hot to touch is not too hot if they have been doing a lot of braking.

Plus, its fairly normal for the fronts to be hotter than the rear.

If your emergency brakes work, which is more likely now since you fixed the rears, there is something you can try.

Plan your route first.
Get on some road where you can drive a long distance without stopping.

Several miles at least to give a problem to heat up, or for the brakes to cool off from any use getting there.
Then, after you have run a while without touching the foot brake, carefully pull off the road using only the emergency brake.
Just hold up on the release and use it like a foot brake.


Two things to watch out for.:

One, using only the emergency brake will cause you to stop without any brake lights.
Make sure that no one is close behind you who might hit you.

Two, don't get so hung up on not using the foot brake that you get a mental block against using them in an emergency.

There should not be much heat after that. There will be a small amount from tire friction, but the hubs should be fairly cool.

I had not been considering the hub bearings, because I saw where you said that the hubs were fairly cool if the brakes were not used much.

Also, you said you had ordered some locking hubs. Are you running the slugs now?
If so, then you need to consider that the spindle bearings may be bad and causing heat.
If you have slugs that keep your axles turning all the time, then the spindle bearings are spinning also, and are very seldom serviced until they start going bad.
I have seen some spindle bearings turn out to be just red dust when they are accessed.

 

[k5ryder]

Ok, this is ALOT easier then it looks lol. Anyway all of the bearings are intact and there is Grease every where! I still don't know where my heat is coming from but I'm going to put everything back together with new pads rotors bearings and new manual hubs. Take a look at the pictures. Should I clean out the hub assy housing? I can take it to work and clean it with solvent and get all of the old nasty rust and grease out. Would that be a good idea?

 

[k5ryder]

Also I found metal shavings on the bearing

 

[375 H&H]

yes, clean the hub out and re-pack the bearings (providing the bearings/races are OK). you will need to knock out the seals to get the inner bearings out to clean/inspect/repack, so get those seals too.

 

[k5ryder]

No need to repack. I bought new ones to "pack"

 

[375 H&H]

you are good to go! but yes, clean the hubs out and the spindle off well. you don't want those metal shavings from the old bearings left in there.

 

[chulisohombre]

You need a brass drift to knock out the bearing races for the new bearings. I've used a 2x4 and a big hammer to Change out the rotor before. It's not the best way but without a press I had to do the only thing I could. The biggest concern is to not mess up the threads on the stud and to also get them seated back into the hub all the way so they don't get loose and break off. I'd check the lug nuts every day for a couple weeks to Make sure they are seated completely if you don't use a press to make sure everything stays tight.

 

[k5ryder]

I was able to get the races out. One of my Machinist at work made me a driver to install me new races and then I put new wheel studs in on our press.

 

[Fordum]

If you don't have to get it back together right away, you might pull the spindles and check those bearings.
You are already almost there.

 

[k5ryder]

My help

 

[chulisohombre]

Those spindle bearings should be checked and at least fresh grease put on them. Pull the 6 bolts holding the spindle and I use a small chisel to seperate it from the knuckle. Sometimes a rubber mallet on the spindle is enough to get it loose.