How bad does this rust look to you... should I swap the body?

[Drumer73]

I started taking apart the interior to see how much rust I am dealing with. I got intimidated when I first saw how bad it really was, I knew it was bad, but not that bad. So a moved the rug, clean out the flakes and took some pictures to see what everyone things. I new to welding and body work. I very interest in learning and trying it out. I love to work with my hands and feel that I am good at using them. It this to much work for a first time welder? I figure i have to replace inner and outer rockers, tailpan, tailposts, gas neck, part of the floor in the very rear, the cab corners (behind the front seats), the cab support by the cab corners. Aside from the pictures and my front wheel wells there is any other rust. I am I biting off more than I can chew... maybe, but I guess I am getting a lot of hands on learning.

Drivers side

How do you guys replace those vertical support pieces

Passenger side

Tailpan and post

underside, drivers side

pass side

 

[ryoken]

thats pretty bad.. even for a joysey truck... i've done worse, but i have more experience than a $2 hooker.... and every body tool known in the free world..

not only are you looking at getting questionable aftermarket sheetmetal, tho the tailpans are pretty decent.. your also looking at a fair amount of custom work.. the lower b-pillars, cab support, stepwell, etc are not available, you gotta make em.. i did it for wraenking, but his wasn't quite that bad....

the other issue is, if it's that bad down there, there's a good chance you have far harder things to repair, not far behind.... windshield area, high post rot, etc...

big job to do right.. really needs massive sandblasting...


i'd be looking for a new tub, unless your a masochist...

 

[bp71k5]

It can be fixed but whether you actually want to will depend on a number of things.

If you want to remove the rusty areas and replace with good metal, you can get a good estimate of how much work it will be by imagining yourself cutting away all the rusty stuff that's visible and probably more than that. Then figure out which replacement panels you will need to order. That'll give you at least a monetary estimate along with welding supplies.

The time required to weld them in properly is tougher to estimate, but that looks like several months of dedicated work.

If you add up your time and money to repair it, you can weigh that cost against just swapping the body for something not as bad. It probably comes down to how much you live that particular vehicle.

 

[KirsL]

OK, first is all that repairable, yes it is. That is a massive amount of rot , some of it in structural areas of the body. I have seen way worse though . The body would need to be braced big time with the amount of metal you'll have to cut out and some replacement parts probably will have to be made by you. Just from your pictures you have a few hundred hours worth of work there and that's for someone who has done it before.

The bigger question is should you fix it or just find another truck. Well it depends on what you want to do with the truck. Full blown wheeler, I would only fix what has to be. If a street rig, you're going to have to fix most if not all of it based on whats rot away or find a body to swap onto your chassis.

Now this is a great way to learn how to weld and do body work and fab your own parts. BUT do you have the space to do it in and can you afford to by the minimum tools needed to do it?

Personally I would try to find another truck in better shape and use yours as a parts truck for it. The biggest thing my project truck (chevy in my sig) has taught me is that body work will always end up taking longer and costing way more then changing/fixing all the mechanicals on the truck. If you do choose to fix it, take your time and learn to do it the right way the first time. Otherwise you will be fixing the same problems again one-day.

 

[Drumer73]

so it sounds like I should get a new blazer

 

[tRustyK5]

If you look at all that rust...imagine taking out another 50% before you get it all.

This initially didn't look all that bad, appeared to have a bit of surface rust, some bubbling and a small hole. A few minutes with my body hammer and a screwdriver and it became this:

When I actually started cutting it out about triple that area ended up being removed and rebuilt.

With little to no experience I think you're going to just frustrate yourself with a project that will never end. I'd find another and keep the good parts off this rig.

Rene

 

[sweetk30]

i voted new body.

but if no blazer tub's around then go trazer build with pickup cab and flatbed. easy to do and cool.

i didnt want to fix my box and other area's plus i wanted 4 seat placement. wheel base was a killer.

so i made it project stubby.

moved axle up to 132" wb from 165" wb.

then cut off about 40" of frame in the back.

 

[jt512]

Alright, here is my $.02 . I read your other post as well so here is my thoughts;

I completely understand the whole first vehicle thing and the not wanting to let her go connection you can develope with a first rig. I had an 83 K5 that was my first ride, I drove and wheeled it for almost 10 years, went through 5 engines and took me through high school, college, and more girl friends then I care to remember. I really loved that truck, but living in northern MD all of it's life the rust had taken it toll on it.

I finally ended up letting it go, once the rust was too much to try and repair, after I had salvaged what was worth saving, and buying another K5. I did this six more times, always buying a "good deal" local truck, aka another soon to be rust bucket. About a year and a half ago I found myself in the same situation, wanting another rig, this time I decided I had had enough of the rust and started looking further away.

I ended up picking up a 86 k5, with a swaped in 396 BB , with the original hydro stick shift, stock suspension and 99.8% rust free. I found the truck in TX and ended up having it shipped to Baltimore, the total for the truck and shipping ended up being right around 22-2300.
I have owned 8 K5's over the years and let me tell you, there is nothing like crawling under one and not having to get a tetanus shot when you 're done

 

[Drumer73]

how hard is it to swap the cab? What is the hardest part, wiring and reinstalling dash components? Side from a fork lift, do you need any special tools. How long does it usually take to do? Any tips

 

[Drumer73]

Alright, here is my $.02 . I read your other post as well so here is my thoughts;

I completely understand the whole first vehicle thing and the not wanting to let her go connection you can develope with a first rig. I had an 83 K5 that was my first ride, I drove and wheeled it for almost 10 years, went through 5 engines and took me through high school, college, and more girl friends then I care to remember. I really loved that truck, but living in northern MD all of it's life the rust had taken it toll on it.

I finally ended up letting it go, once the rust was too much to try and repair, after I had salvaged what was worth saving, and buying another K5. I did this six more times, always buying a "good deal" local truck, aka another soon to be rust bucket. About a year and a half ago I found myself in the same situation, wanting another rig, this time I decided I had had enough of the rust and started looking further away.

I ended up picking up a 86 k5, with a swaped in 396 BB , with the original hydro stick shift, stock suspension and 99.8% rust free. I found the truck in TX and ended up having it shipped to Baltimore, the total for the truck and shipping ended up being right around 22-2300.
I have owned 8 K5's over the years and let me tell you, there is nothing like crawling under one and not having to get a tetanus shot when you 're done

I understand exactly what you are saying but I hate to think about getting rid of my baby,but if i take all the good parts off of it and save up for a nice rust free AZ or TX truck and put my parts on it to make a "super" blazer, at least I will have some parts for remembrance, my first truck will not truly die. I have to think about it. Thanks everyone for the comments and tips.

 

[tRustyK5]

It is a big job, and you will need to come up with a way to safely lift and support the body tub so the frame and stuff can be rolled out from under it.

Describe for us the rest of the truck, maybe some exterior and interior pics as well as whatever extra's you've done. Right now most of us are thinking find a rust free version from south of you, and maybe add some of the good parts from yours to finish it if it needs it.

Rene

 

[Drumer73]

It is a big job, and you will need to come up with a way to safely lift and support the body tub so the frame and stuff can be rolled out from under it.

Describe for us the rest of the truck, maybe some exterior and interior pics as well as whatever extra's you've done. Right now most of us are thinking find a rust free version from south of you, and maybe add some of the good parts from yours to finish it if it needs it.

Rene

Here are some pictures the ones with the rear pulled apart are from last october, ones with the cap off are from march of this year. I'll take some more pictures tomorrow, but the as for the rest of the truck. The front clip is in decent the driver door is in nice shape, I have a pass door shell, the interior is in nice shape all the glass is nice, it has newer warn hubs, the rear had 488 gears with a detriot locker in it. Plus some other nice parts

 

[tRustyK5]

OK, that's a good start. It's actually clean lookin on the outside, aside from the pass rocker. That's what so hard about these truck, by the time you see problems on the exterior they're pretty much basket case for rust.

Items worth saving:

You have the very rare power mirror option. They're worth $$ for someone that wants those because they were only available for a year or two and not many pony'd up for that option. Definitely keep the doors.

Your interior is in very good shape, I'd carefully remove it all, bag and label all the screws and stuff.

Front clip and baby quad grill...definitely a keeper!

Drivetrain stuff...if it runs and drives good keep it all...definitely keep the diff's if you spent $$ for the Detroit and new 4.88's.

Step 2 is find a rust free victim...this part is somewhat easy. Getting it home is a bit more work. It's either fly down and drive home, or pay a shipping company to bring it to you. Cost is probably comparable. Knowing the good stuff you have will ease your search. Something that is straight and rust free but has a sh!tty interior...no worries for you! Drivetrain is stock and has crappy stock gearing...again, no worries!

The only downside other than the rust in your rig are those Thornturds...you should go back to the tire guy that talked you into those and slap him like a bitch.

Rene

 

[tRustyK5]

oh yeah, one upside to a new southern K5 is not having a sun roof...those things always leak.

Rene

 

[Drumer73]

Thanks,

I have heard that the power mirrors are a rare option. Only on the 90 and 91 was that option available. I actually want to take them off and put the SS mirrors on and I also want to put an 87 front end on. So I was planning on taking the grille and mirrors off and keep them or sell them. How much do those front ends and mirrors go for? I know that the glass would have to go with the mirrors because of the blacked out parts.

How would one go about finding a rust free truck? You said that it is somewhat easy? I have found a few web sites like southern truck.com and rust free classic bargins. Would you suggest getting one from a site like that or try ebay? Can I trust the truck it good just by talking to someone and pictures?

Deff, keep the drivetrain stuff. Is it worth keeping the engine or taking it out and selling it. I has a little over 129,000 miles on it. How much could i get for it? Is it worth anything?

As for the tires I guess I will have to slap myself, yes they are a crappy tire, I got them when i first got the truck when I was 17, I didn't know much about tires then, all i knew was that they looked cool and the description said they are a good AT tire. I still think they look cool, but they blow on the street. Never really tried them off road. Would i get them again? no, but maybe if they made them in a radial.

Yes the sunroof does leak, but only in heavy rain and then it is not that bad, but i can see it being a problem down the road, and i bet I wouldn't be able to get replacement weather stripping

Thanks for the help
Tom

 

[tRustyK5]

Search craigslist and here on CK5...try a wanted ad here at CK5. With a little patience you should have a few to choose from in a matter of weeks. I see them come up regularly.

evilBay is another option

You can skim through the classifieds here for an idea on pricing for stuff. There is even a recent ad for complete power mirrors, including the shaded glass.

Rene

 

[82355]

I wouldn't part that out. Swap whatever parts you want from it over to your new rig (if you go the route of buying a rust free Southern truck) and swap the other parts back onto that one and sell it complete. Your current Blazer would be a damn nice one as it sits here in Nebraska.

Martin

 

[diesel4me]

I'd definately fly to AZ and drive home a rust free one,after seeing how exrensive the rust is on yours!..I have welded my share of rotted floors,rockers and doors ,tail pans and other parts back together in years past,and I now have ZERO desire to do it again..my '82 K2500 is just starting to turn the corner,where it'll soon have holes in the rockers for the first time,and the front fenders & stepside bed are already boned,worse still,the frame is getting rusty from salt and I noticed yesterday one rear spring shakle is rotted paper thin,on the other side,only two strips remain of the top plate on the u-bolts!...(saw this while installing a receiver hitch!--probably shouldn't tow anything with it --I also had planned to mount a "crane" on it ,but am now having second thoughts,seeing the frame is "ripe"..)

I am thnking of patching the truck up some and seling it before it'll need a total frame off...sucks,because I really liked that truck,but not so much now,since I want to vomit every time I crawl under it..once I hit 50,I dont feel like doing squat,I dont even want to change a spark plug unless I have too-I'm sick of doing full restorations ,only to see the truck worse off in 5 years time..life is getting to short for that kind of work,and I'd rather spend my time enjoying the truck than trying to patch one back together and still have a POS thats all patched up..
For what you'll spend to get a decent AZ truck,and a plane ticket,will likely cost less than all the panels,a MIG welder and torches,and hundreds of hours of labor will ,and you'll have something WORTH having again..I think if I ever get to AZ and buy a rust free truck,I'd do my best to STAY there,I'm very disgusted with rust,living here all my life and watching several muscle cars and nice trucks rot away in 5 years time,even with decent care..the climate here rots them with or without salt,with it,they just dissapear much quicker..