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How Can I Increase Torque On A 1983 3/4 Ton Dually 4 Door 454 Carbureted?

blackandgold51

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The vehicle has a 454 Carbureted which how to increase Low End Torque(and some high end torque) with light or medium modifications along with horsepower being a bonus?
 
Replace everything on the exhaust including the headers, larger pipe and some aftermarket mufflers

Good tune up and solid timing. Important to do this after the modifications
 
Low RPM/Hi Torque camshaft helps a lot..
The type and size of carb can make a big difference also..
I had a 1973 "smog" 454 in my '72 Chevelle wagon,that had a Q-jet,it was rated at only 235 HP and 360 ft/lbs..
I got a deal on a Holley spread bore carb,it took some tweaking of the accelerator pump to overcome a slight bog on takeoff,but it felt like it gained 25 HP and had better low end with that carb..one of only a few Holley carbs I had that was worth a dam...engine was bone stock otherwise,no headers,fancy exhaust,etc..
 
Long tube headers, with smaller primaries, 3" collector, 18" of 3" pipe past that then neck down to 2.5" for duals, add an X pipe. Or do custom Y pipe into single 3".

1 or 2 size over stock cam at most. With 112-114 lsa.

Dual plane intake.

For internals if you went that far , bore, stroke, and or raise compression.


I've been pouring over articles like crazy for a couple months now researching how to make a low-end torque monster. Because in reality most normal DDs never see 4k+ rpm.
 
i would want to access what you want to tow (how much weight?) and what your rear axle ratio is first before messing with the engine.
 
Get a L29
Toss this at it.
index.jpeg
Add a couple of these.
imagesds.jpeg
Some of this.
shopping.png
And end up with something like this.
LongBlock.jpg
Easy-peasy

Again, completely depends on your definition of medium mods...

imagesdsa.jpeg
 
One question, does the l29 has to keep fuel injection or can I stick with the carburetor still? If not , I'll just upgrade the fuel injection with Pro Flow 4 from Edlebrock

Only reason to use the L29 is the factory fuel injection. The 98-2000 version can be tuned with HPtuners, are pretty easy to find and as a bonus you can now run a 4L80.
I'm collecting parts to build a 486 for my K3500. It came with a L29, so it makes sense (trowing an 8.1 in would be cool option too but finding one with low miles that doesn't need a rebuild hasn't worked out well yet). Anyway, I'm after tons of torque / reliability and too cheap to jump into a Duramax.

,,,Edelbrock pro flow. MEH! Not a fan. Spend the money wisely which to me, means: elsewhere!
 
Only reason to use the L29 is the factory fuel injection. The 98-2000 version can be tuned with HPtuners, are pretty easy to find and as a bonus you can now run a 4L80.
I'm collecting parts to build a 486 for my K3500. It came with a L29, so it makes sense (trowing an 8.1 in would be cool option too but finding one with low miles that doesn't need a rebuild hasn't worked out well yet). Anyway, I'm after tons of torque / reliability and too cheap to jump into a Duramax.

,,,Edelbrock pro flow. MEH! Not a fan. Spend the money wisely which to me, means: elsewhere!
I agree on the pro flow. You going to use the factory fuel injection?
 
I agree on the pro flow. You going to use the factory fuel injection?

That's the plan...at least for now, but you know how that goes.
486 ci / D60 SAS / 4.56's and ditch the cattle guard bumpers. Should be quick...bumpers are still on after only 14 years. :doah:

@blackandgold51 Sorry for the hijack.
 
That's the plan...at least for now, but you know how that goes.
486 ci / D60 SAS / 4.56's and ditch the cattle guard bumpers. Should be quick...bumpers are still on after only 14 years. :doah:

@blackandgold51 Sorry for the hijack.
Those bumpers aren't the worst I've seen.
 
Only reason to use the L29 is the factory fuel injection. The 98-2000 version can be tuned with HPtuners, are pretty easy to find and as a bonus you can now run a 4L80.
I'm collecting parts to build a 486 for my K3500. It came with a L29, so it makes sense (trowing an 8.1 in would be cool option too but finding one with low miles that doesn't need a rebuild hasn't worked out well yet). Anyway, I'm after tons of torque / reliability and too cheap to jump into a Duramax.

,,,Edelbrock pro flow. MEH! Not a fan. Spend the money wisely which to me, means: elsewhere!
You're right. Get an L29 that is in used but ok condition with the 4l80e transmission, let a local vehicle shop change out both and maybe keep the motor and transmission that was took out or let the shop have it to cover the labor cost.

The only thing that will make a difference between the current motor and transmission and the updated one is that the updated one is computer operated, but not much to where it's complicated like the LS motors from the mid 1990s and up.

I know someone locally that has a auto shop that does paint, body and mechanical work. I'll talk to him on a deal if he wants to keep the motor and transmission that is took out to cover the labor cost while I pay for the l29 motor and transmission that I can find with it which will be less than building the current engine and taking out and replacing the transmission (turbo400)
 
Get a L29
Toss this at it.
View attachment 282382
Add a couple of these.
View attachment 282380
Some of this.
View attachment 282384
And end up with something like this.
View attachment 282383
Easy-peasy

Again, completely depends on your definition of medium mods...

View attachment 282381
What parts are those. I have an L29 in the garage that wants to get bored out. It’s gonna end up with after market efi as I got it with a long block. Trying to figure out good rotating assembly and heads to put on it.
 
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What pets are those. I have an L29 in the garage that wants to get bored out. It’s gonna end up with after market efi as I got it with a long block. Trying to figure out good rotating assembly and heads to put on it.
Scat stroker crank, dart Pro ones. Wait... That's what I'm doing....
 
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Heads on those with a set of beehive springs are good for a LOT of power. All depends on what you want to do with it.

Heads need milled for the springs but still cheaper than a new set.
 
Heads on those with a set of beehive springs are good for a LOT of power. All depends on what you want to do with it.

Heads need milled for the springs but still cheaper than a new set.
What's a "LOT"of power?
 
800+.
That was with a pro charger but stock heads with beehives.
I'll look the article up quick. There's quite a few builds of those engines though
 

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