CK5
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How come these mods don't stop? TONS OF PICS...beware

BozoWise said:
This is the only part of the firewall I had to cut.

Yeah I had seen that pic on your pics website. I was just wondering if you had one after it was narrowed with the fender and firewall in the same pic.
 
Don't get me strarted on Memphis audio :mad: great product slimball company.

I am only 28. Went to EE school and also got a business degree. Worked in car audio as an installer in Lubbock, TX while I was in college. Got offered a job as an installer in NM, then managed the shop, then I bought it :D Been wheelin - hunting all my life.

As far as the pitcture of the firewall. Do you want one of the inside of the engine bay where the two meet?
 
As far as the pitcture of the firewall. Do you want one of the inside of the engine bay where the two meet?


Yes, that's exaclty what I would like. I would appreciate one.

Thanks
 
Ok 88 got your pics and a few more of the progress. You can find the pics of the firewall in my signature link to photo album.

I got a 8274 winch plate and started building the mounts tonite. I added a bolt in crossmember for the front of the frame. You can see it sitting between the rails. I had to cut it into two piece to fit it into the frame. I now have everything mocked up and will finish weld the mount tom. and cleanup all the cuts on the grill. The mount near boxes in the frame from the front on the engine crossmember to the front of the horns. The mount will bolt up in 12 places on the frame and crossmember.

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BozoWise said:
Ok 88 got your pics and a few more of the progress. You can find the pics of the firewall in my signature link to photo album.

Thats exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks
 
Glad that got you taken care of 88.

Didn't get much done today. I had a piece of metal go into my eye :eek1: Large enough that the hospital got it out with a set of tweezers. It went under my safety glasses and into my eye. Back to wearing a full hood I guess. They had to use a tool similar to a dremel to drill out all the rust. None of it hurt at all until about 1 hr later when the medicine wore of.

Atleast I have a kewl prirate patch to pic up chicks with :D Anywho - I did get some wiring done, finished the battery rack, got some paint on the grill, mounted up the trans cooler and broke out the airbrush on the tailgate. All in all I was pretty happy since I have no sense of depth perception now. Plus I kept bumping into everything. You always take your health for granted.

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Hey Brian, glad your eye is OK--I hate it when that happens. Truck is looking good. What tires are you going to run? 16.00R20 Michelin XZL's by chance?(shameless plug, LOL)
Jimbo
 
Jim I don't think I am too fond of those tires. Not sure yet. Still have to get drivelines. Don't know why everyone hates my Thornbirds :D

Talked with HAD today and they said $1036.00 for front a rear shaft. 1350 joints cv front and rear. New 1350 yoke for Dana 60 and the 1350 will bolt to the factory 205 front output. New rear output for the 205 to accept the other 1350 cv and I use my stock 1350 strap style on the rear.

I would like to talk with Toms and see his otions also.

I got the 8274 filled with oil, installed on the finished mount and wired up. It was tough doing the welding with one eye but it all came through. Added a simple toggle switch on the temporary dash. I will be redoing all the electrical and dash with the cage install.

I also ordered up some synthetic cable from Rockstomper, a fairlead and saftey hook.

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Might wanna think about bracing the winch mount plate on the sides there. I talked to white rhyno a while back and he said his flexed pretty badly when he used it that way. Otherwise looks awesome man. $1036 is for BOTH front AND rear shafts right?
 
I pondered that idea and I have the metal for it. It would make the winch a bit more work to get in and out since I like to pull it off the driverside mount. It is hard to tell in the photo but the added 1/4 angle iron reinforces the bend in the mount. I think it will be a-ok since the pull of the 8274 is all at the bottom of the mount. When the cable comes in we will hook her up to one of the cemented poles and get a good pull on it to see if there is much flex. If so all I have to do is break out the welder again :D

Yes that is for front and rear shaft
cv plate for rear of 205
1350 yoke for dana 60
 
Yeah, sorry, guess I can't really see the reinforcement in the pic. Just commented since I'll be doing the same setup except just building it outta plate instead of starting with a Warn center section. If only that 100 pound box would arrive. :rolleyes:
 
mikey_d05 said:
Might wanna think about bracing the winch mount plate on the sides there. I talked to white rhyno a while back and he said his flexed pretty badly when he used it that way. Otherwise looks awesome man. $1036 is for BOTH front AND rear shafts right?

Mikey I didn't want to let you down so I had a break today and cut two gussets for the front mount. I figure two 1/2" pieces should be overkill :D

I'll weld them up this weekend.

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BozoWise said:
Mikey I didn't want to let you down so I had a break today and cut two gussets for the front mount. I figure two 1/2" pieces should be overkill :D

I'll weld them up this weekend.


:haha: :haha: :haha:

All in the name of overkill my friend. :D
 
I got the brackets welded in today for you. I also talked with both HAD and Tom Woods about driveshafts. Both were very close in price and the only thing that really determined which one got my business was customer service. I ended up with the Tom Woods shafts. I felt really happy with all the information they provided over the phone. They also had a very fast lead time and there was going to be a wait with HAD as they have moved to a new location. I also like the fact that when I add my doubler they will redo both shafts for under $150 total. That is awesome in my .02 They also seem to be great people and hey "If it is good enough for Stephen Watson. It has to be good enough for me."

I am going with a long travel front and rear. Not there longest but well over stock. 1350 CV front and rear. Both the 60 and the 14 bolt will be running 1350 u joints also.

Pictures soon as the shafts should be shipping to me within 3 days. Once they are installed we'll start looking into changing those tires everyone laughs at me about :rolleyes:
 
For me? I'm flattered. Tom Woods will redo the shafts for $150 when you go doubler? Holy crap, I was gonna go to a 205 next year and a doubler or a crawler box after that and I figured I'd have to do budget driveshafts because I'd be replacing them anyways but that's a freakin good deal. How much travel did the ones you order have? If you don't mind me asking...what'd it run you? Sorry for all the questions, it's just that you did all the buildup plans I had for the next three years in three months. :D


Oh yeah, if you groove the hell out of your thornbirds we'll stop making fun of you...............for a little while. :haha:
 
Slip and functional use slip are two different things. I am not sure the exact measurements, but I got one under the long shaft which is 10" front slip. It was a bit over 1,000 for either one of the companies to build a front and rear shaft. About 400 on the rear and 500 front plus 100 for the rear cv output plate on the 205. I did get a bunch of other doodads so really not sure on exact cost of each item. But both were within 100 of each other so price was not a factor for me. SERVICE was the biggie.

I got the Am-Steel in from Rockstomper today and the safety hook. It is amazing how light this stuff is. Now I have to wait for the synthetic fairlead to come in next week :doah:
 
Is the safety hook big enough to handle two double sewn strap loops?
 
I would think so. This hook is BIG 5" across with 2" inside.

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Got a bit of work done and more started. Cut into the top today and got the first few layers of kitty hair put on. It attaches with all the factory bolt hole locations. I removed about 30" of the roof. And will start to narrow the rear from the back of the top.

After I removed the section I installed multiple metal straps to joing the pieces togther. I also installed 6 12" aluminum braces all of which will be covered my glass. I filled the 1/4" gap between the two with kitty hair after grinding the gap into a V shape. I will leave the bulge and overlap on the top side, remove the top and flip it over. Then a few layers of kitty hair on the bottom sealing up all the straps. I'll lay a layer or two of woven matt over that and then fleece it all in to provide a nice factory style finish on the inside. I think after all that it should have much more strength then it did from the factory even with the sectioning. I would like to get it strong enough the sit on. I think it will work fine and after I am done I will sand the top surface smooth. If need be I will use only woven matt on the outer surface.

Atleast we build fiberglass enclosures for subs at our shop, lots of nice supplies at hand.

I am also going to install a metal frame around the window openings with racing nets. I pondered custom glass windows or sliders, filling the hole like Cyberfire or just some simple plexiglass. I think the nets will be nice and the metal frame will provide the added support I like :D

Before I left tonite I removed the gears and carrier in the 14bolt. The mini spool from ouversonengineering should be in next week.

I also have to say the service and quality of Tom Woods shafts are excellant. They also arrived at work today :D

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