How do I convert 10 bolt to 8 on 6.5 without adapter/spacers??

[82detroit diesel]

I have a 14 bolt in the rear and stock 10 bolt in front, I don’t plan on replacing the front axle any time soon To bigger axle with same bolt pattern,and right now it has has 2” aluminum adapters in front. So the track width is 4 “ wider in front then the back. I don’t like the idea of having those while wheeling, and want to match the track width with out getting 2” spacers to throw on the back. Any options? Thanks guys

 

[Bent77]

So it’s 6 lug now without the spacers?

You need 3/4 hub bearings and rotors

 

[swettysblazer]

So it’s 6 lug now without the spacers?

You need 3/4 hub bearings and rotors

Yep, anything from an 8 lug D44 or 10 bolt should work IIRC

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Yep, anything from an 8 lug D44 or 10 bolt should work IIRC

If you don't swap the spindle too you'll need to watch out for wheel bearing sizes, they vary.

 

[82detroit diesel]

Ok thanks guys , so it is possible. Any body know what year models have the 10 bolt/44 8lug pattern so I can start looking up parts amazon/ auto zone. Thanks again

 

[Bent77]

73-88 is a good window

I can vouch for the bearings someplace in 84 time frame, the inner is different than the older ones

see if you can find a pick and pull of someone parting one out locally on FB or Craigslist

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Everything is available from auto parts stores except for the backing plate/caliper mount, those are no longer available new. You'll also find the parts cost adds up pretty quick through auto parts store stuff, between having to find the caliper mount anyway (only from a used/junkyard axle) and the cost, you're way better off finding either a complete 8 lug axle or a junkyard donor. All 71-87 K20's, either pickups or Suburbans.

 

[82detroit diesel]

What model? Sorry new to all this. If I don’t want to do spindles and just replace the hubs what model vehicle would I look up in 74-88

 

[82detroit diesel]

Oh ok you beat me to it, thanks

 

[87ProjectGMC]

Will you send me your parts list? I'm trying to do the same....

 

[frankin5]

http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/products/cb6675-r-caliper-bracket---gmfsj-jeep-1972-91

 

[sweetk30]

http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/products/cb6675-r-caliper-bracket---gmfsj-jeep-1972-91

you do know thats for 5 lug correct ? ? @frankin5

8 lug gets a bigger O.D. rotor and bigger backing plate .

 

[6.2Blazer]

Haven't heard this question on here for awhile. Used to come up about once per week here years ago!

8-lug 10-bolt front axles were very, very, very common and found on just about every 3/4 ton (K20) 4wd truck and Suburban made from from the late-70's up until they went with the IFS trucks. As mentioned the only difference between 6 lug and 8 lug 10-bolt axles are the backing plates/caliper mounts, wheel hubs and rotors. Calipers will bolt up between the two axles, spindles are the same, the actual wheel bearings are the same, axle stub shafts are the same, and the locking hubs are the same. If you have the parts it's not any harder than repacking the wheel bearings. Only additional work is unbolting the backing plates and bolting on the new ones.

My suggestion would be to source the parts from the junkyard, maybe slapping in new bearings and new rotors depending on the condition of the used ones. Haven't priced out these axles in a long time but years ago could buy a complete 10-bolt front axle for $100 all day long. Just keep in mind that these trucks haven't been produced for 30+ years now.

Also as mentioned above 8-lug Dana 44 stuff will work also most of the time. The only exception were some earlier models with slightly different bearing sizes. Used to know this stuff by heart but believe you can usually identify these by the older external locking hub style. However I think if you have the matching spindles you can make it work.

 

[campfire]

All 10-bolts and later D44 axles have "big bearing" spindles, and swap parts. These ones have internal lockouts like this:

Earlier D44 axles have "small bearing" spindles and can be identified by the external lockouts:

I think that 1977 is the first year for big bearings, with 1976-down GM D44s using small bearings. Either spindle would bolt onto your axle, but if you get the more common newer style you can slide the new hubs on your existing big-bearing spindles (saves the time it would take to change those extra six bolts).


HOWEVER...the 3/4-ton wheel lugs sit about 2" further outboard than 1/2-ton lugs. Your wheels probably won't be moving inboard at all. See how much further the "snout" sticks out on the 6-lug hub? The hubs are the same length, but the wheel mounting surface has moved outward on the 8-lug hub. So it probably will not fix your difference in track width.

You can see pictures of how I did this exact conversion here:

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/the-great-smaug.313869/page-2#post-3438676

 

[black dawg]

The last 10 bolt that I 8 lugged (an 89) I used the spindles out from an 80 10 bolt. Inner wheel bearing was different than the 89.

 

[thatK30guy]

All 10-bolts and later D44 axles have "big bearing" spindles, and swap parts. These ones have internal lockouts like this:

Earlier D44 axles have "small bearing" spindles and can be identified by the external lockouts:

I think that 1977 is the first year for big bearings, with 1976-down GM D44s using small bearings. Either spindle would bolt onto your axle, but if you get the more common newer style you can slide the new hubs on your existing big-bearing spindles (saves the time it would take to change those extra six bolts).


HOWEVER...the 3/4-ton wheel lugs sit about 2" further outboard than 1/2-ton lugs. Your wheels probably won't be moving inboard at all. See how much further the "snout" sticks out on the 6-lug hub? The hubs are the same length, but the wheel mounting surface has moved outward on the 8-lug hub. So it probably will not fix your difference in track width.

You can see pictures of how I did this exact conversion here:

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/the-great-smaug.313869/page-2#post-3438676

This guy is spot on. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

73-76 is the First Design and 77-91 is the Second Design. You can't use a spindle opposite of the other to a bearing hub. They have to match meaning they have to be between the years specified. If you attempt to assemble a SD bearing hub onto a FD spindle it's just going to wobble and not seat at all. If you tried the opposite, a SD spindle to a FD hub, they won't even slide on all the way since the bearings are wrong sizes.

 

[chulisohombre]

If you are getting parts go with the post 78 parts. You get a slightly bigger bearing and with bigger tires it helps. On my older first style I’d blow out bearings every other year. After switching to the newer bigger bearing style I’ve had no problems in many years. Just repack bearings yearly. I wanted a 60 but money was a issue. So I just did what you did and it’s held up well with only 35 inch tires.