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how do i get water out of the block

84CUCV

84CUCV

3/4 ton status
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someone on here said there two places to unscrew on a sbc to get water out. found mine by the motor mount. i cant get them to move. th po put water in the cooling system instead of antifreeze. its getting colder now. not sure if it will but i dont want the water messing up the motor. so the question is what do i do know to get it out? thanks
 
should be 9/16 one each side of the block, about an inch above the oil pan, and 1/2way down the length of the pan.. tbi motors will have a knock sensor in the passenger side hole as opposed to a plug...

3/8 drive socket, 6" extension and 3/8 breaker bar... the right tools will get anything out...

you can always do it the cheesy way.. drain the rad... fill it with straight antifreeze... run it up to temp for awhile.. let cool... check what temp your good to with an antifreeze tester... we like to see the boats a minimum of -10 but a 50/50 mix will usually have you good to at least -30...

if your still not low enough, drain some more from the rad, and add straight a.f again...
 
DO NOT run straight anti-freeze. Water cools better than anti-freeze. There are a couple reasons why you need anti-freeze, it helps keep the water pump seals lubricated, it raises the boiling point, and it helps prevent winter freezing. Too much anti-freeze and the engine will not run cool it can actually overheat. Not enough anti-freeze and in the winter time you could bust open a block. Also the anti-freeze helps keep electrolysis to a minimum when there are dissimiliar metals within the same engine.
 
Yeah dont run straight antifreeze. 50/ 50 antifreeze and water is best. Just drain your radiator and refill with antifreeze. Get an antifreeze tester and adjust the mixture till you are good for -30 to -50 below 0. Dont bother with draining the block.
 
4X4HIGH said:
DO NOT run straight anti-freeze. Water cools better than anti-freeze. There are a couple reasons why you need anti-freeze, it helps keep the water pump seals lubricated, it raises the boiling point, and it helps prevent winter freezing. Too much anti-freeze and the engine will not run cool it can actually overheat. Not enough anti-freeze and in the winter time you could bust open a block. Also the anti-freeze helps keep electrolysis to a minimum when there are dissimiliar metals within the same engine.
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thanks for the basics... :rolleyes: I didn't tell him to run straight antifreeze...

when you have straight water in the block, you can get it to 50/50 by adding straight to the other part of the system... Thought I made that abundantly clear in my post, but apparently not...
 
ryoken said:
thanks for the basics... :rolleyes: I didn't tell him to run straight antifreeze...

when you have straight water in the block, you can get it to 50/50 by adding straight to the other part of the system... Thought I made that abundantly clear in my post, but apparently not...
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After re-reading your reply several times i can kind of see that you meant he could add straight anti-freeze to the water to get the mix he needs. Unfortunately, the first time i read it it sounded like you wanted him to run straight anti-freeze instead of straight water. :doah:
 
Not my clearest of posts... :doah::haha:

nah, I see TONS of that kinda stuff in the marine biz. I check and adjust over 100 chevy's a.f's a year, twice a year.. And it is winterizing season, my refractometer is probably my most often used tool right now... :doah:

I'd rather see him end up at 60/40 then be borderline on temp capability in this area..

I get both ends of it at work, guys running straight water and straight antifreeze... . :haha: Seen plenty of genset's overheat from straight a.f. :wink1:

heck, we stock a 1/2 dozen different antifreezes... :doah::haha::(
 
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well, i just twisted my allen key. so now what do i do to get it lose?
 
just use the draincock on the radiator, like someone mentioned earlier. you won't get all the water out, but you don't need to get it all out, anyway.
 
84CUCV said:
well, i just twisted my allen key. so now what do i do to get it lose?
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You can get hex drivers that snap-on 3/8 or 1/2 drives, just like sockets. There built stronger to take the torque from ratchets & breaker bars.
Did you soak them with PBB or Kroil or or or...............?
 
nope i didnt soak them. i will go get one of them thanks didnt think of it
 
yup, the right tools and some heat'll get it out... make sure the hex fits firmly, tap it in with a hammer.. pull it out, heat the surrounding block area with a map torch (don't nuke the pan gasket), tap the socket in and have at it..

self igniting map torch

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or hey, break out the real torchs and a brazing tip, if ya got em.....
 
I forgot. Once you get those NPT plugs out of the block, replace them with pet-cocks. Makes it much easier to drain next time.:D
 
ok need some more ideas. the driver side one on the block i just rounded.:(
 
I'd say your first priority is to protect the block. From here on out, ask yourself "Is it worth it?" If so, start by drilling a small hole (1/8?) in the base of the Female hex. The block will drain. Tap the hole with either machine, NPT or sheet metal thread. Plug it with the same thread screw with pipe thread tape or sealer. If you want to get more adventurous, drive in an "Easy-out". If you go that route, open the pilot hole to as big as the hex size, and use the Easy-out of the corresponding size.
Personally, I'd say leave it plugged.:bow:
 
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