Even when the 22g red butt splice connectors are too large. What's the best way to connect wires like these? I haven't a clue, never done it, please walk me though it. 
CK5
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How do you connect tiny wires?
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
if doing ls engine cruise I have read there not switched the same as our old one .
need to use relays I think I read .
and if me I would soldier them on .
need to use relays I think I read .
and if me I would soldier them on .
those wires are going to my turn signal lever which has CC controls on it. Should work fine according to BDengines 
In general, Solder and shrink wrap.
ugg, I can't solder for s***. Maybe I need a new gun 
I've used some of these neat solderless connectors used for telephone wires ,a friend got a ton of them from his brother who worked for A T &T ..they have some dilectric grease in them to prevent corrosion and you heat them up with a lighter and they shrink tight to the wires...if you have room for them they'll work..
ugg, I can't solder for s***. Maybe I need a new gun
get rid of the California safe tin solder and get some good old lead .
and flux is the key also .
In my line of work, I have to be very good at soldering, and I am.
First of all, if your gun has ever been used with any kind of acid core solder, either replace the tip or the whole gun.
That tip can never be safe to use with copper wires.
Then, find yourself some 60/40 rosin core solder.
There has got to me some left somewhere. Don't look for Ersin Multicore, its the best, but I think I bought up all that was left on the planet........
For wires that size, you need some small solder. You can make it work with regular size, but its tricky.
Clean the tip off, Do Not Sand it. Some tips are copper plated steel, and if you remove the copper its ruined.
Wrap some of the solder around the tip, Turn it on and let it melt off. If you see a part that is not shiny, add some more.
Then wipe it with a damp rag. It should be nice and shiny solder colored.
Touch the iron to the wire, touch the solder to the wire. With normal size wire, you want the wire to melt the solder.
With it this small, you might need to cheat a little. Touch the iron to the wire, wait a second, then touch the solder where the iron touches the wire.
Even though the iron might do some of the melting, you still want the wire to do most of it.
Sometimes you have to let the iron melt a small blob of solder, press it to the wire, and then let the wire melt more solder.
As you go from joint to joint, if the iron gets dull looking, add some more solder and wipe it shiny again.
Be sure you do not disturb the joint until the solder had cooled.
First of all, if your gun has ever been used with any kind of acid core solder, either replace the tip or the whole gun.
That tip can never be safe to use with copper wires.
Then, find yourself some 60/40 rosin core solder.
There has got to me some left somewhere. Don't look for Ersin Multicore, its the best, but I think I bought up all that was left on the planet........
For wires that size, you need some small solder. You can make it work with regular size, but its tricky.
Clean the tip off, Do Not Sand it. Some tips are copper plated steel, and if you remove the copper its ruined.
Wrap some of the solder around the tip, Turn it on and let it melt off. If you see a part that is not shiny, add some more.
Then wipe it with a damp rag. It should be nice and shiny solder colored.
Touch the iron to the wire, touch the solder to the wire. With normal size wire, you want the wire to melt the solder.
With it this small, you might need to cheat a little. Touch the iron to the wire, wait a second, then touch the solder where the iron touches the wire.
Even though the iron might do some of the melting, you still want the wire to do most of it.
Sometimes you have to let the iron melt a small blob of solder, press it to the wire, and then let the wire melt more solder.
As you go from joint to joint, if the iron gets dull looking, add some more solder and wipe it shiny again.
Be sure you do not disturb the joint until the solder had cooled.
I twist them together, and use a crimp cap. If they are really thing, i fold them over first.
Better than soldering? No. But, is effective and pretty reliable if done right.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Closed-...428?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c85572b24
I like these better than butt connectors, because you can twist the wires together and know they are connected well, plus you only have to crimp once.
I have used them for all my wiring for years, no issues yet. If its under the hood, i use heat shrink butt connectors, or a drop of die
lectric grease in the crimp caps.
Better than soldering? No. But, is effective and pretty reliable if done right.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Closed-...428?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c85572b24
I like these better than butt connectors, because you can twist the wires together and know they are connected well, plus you only have to crimp once.
I have used them for all my wiring for years, no issues yet. If its under the hood, i use heat shrink butt connectors, or a drop of die
lectric grease in the crimp caps.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Learn to solder now or learn to troubleshoot which butt splice connector is flaky later.
This is what I use and recommend.
Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARU9PO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_UxZOvb558VAWR
This is what I use and recommend.
Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARU9PO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_UxZOvb558VAWR
Hey J, got a gun recommendation? Something a hobbyist like myself (who has used a gun maybe 5 times in his life) can afford. And maybe any associated pieces. I'm probably not attacking this for a couple weeks and I'm over the moon busy. So I've got time for mail delivery.
Last time I connected small wire with solder, I twisted the wires together and melted a bunch of solder on top. (didn't heat the wire, only melted with gun) Then I messed with the solder on the wire to get it to lay flat..... add heat-shrink and slowly step away for the disaster
Last time I connected small wire with solder, I twisted the wires together and melted a bunch of solder on top. (didn't heat the wire, only melted with gun) Then I messed with the solder on the wire to get it to lay flat..... add heat-shrink and slowly step away for the disaster
bp71k5
is there anything cheaper? lol When would I make adjustments? My gun has a trigger and says Weller hahahaha
is there anything cheaper? lol When would I make adjustments? My gun has a trigger and says Weller hahahaha
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
You can skip the digital version and maybe save $20? But really, it's like welding with flux core vs gas with those radio shack guns, they really suck. Any decent one with adjustable temperature would be better than the gun.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU
does the adjustability help with wire size or solder size?
anybody got an article saved on how to properly solder? Or video?
anybody got an article saved on how to properly solder? Or video?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Fordum had good advice. The adjustability is mostly for wire size and solder size. Needs to be hot enough to heat up quickly but not so hot it melts the insulation before you get the solder melted. Get some flux core solder in a nice thin gauge. Not the big fat wire for plumbing.
1. Put gun tip of wire, hold for 5 seconds
2. Touch the solder to the wire (not the solder tip), until it melts and gets sucked into the wire strands.
3. Let cool
4. Remember you forgot to put heat shrink tubing on.
5. Cut wires and start at #1 again.
1. Put gun tip of wire, hold for 5 seconds
2. Touch the solder to the wire (not the solder tip), until it melts and gets sucked into the wire strands.
3. Let cool
4. Remember you forgot to put heat shrink tubing on.
5. Cut wires and start at #1 again.
Oh man, I'd rather try recommending a wife.........
Just so many parameters.
First, it seems that the tree huggers may be losing. The good stuff is back.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/389261/82-105-ND/2498903
That is 60/40 Multicore in the tiny size. You can use it for the big wires too, but you use it up fast.
Its probably too small for your use, but it works great. Due to its small size, it melts quick and wets the joint well.
Actually its perfect for the tiny wires you are trying to solder, but its small for general use.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/395439/82-142-ND/2498940
This is my standard size that I carry to a job. For general wiring, its great. But, since I do a lot of really small circuit board work, I make sure I have some of the small stuff with me.
Now, as to the iron:
I'm sure that there is better stuff out there than Weller thermostatically controlled pencils, but I don't use them.
Unless you are soldering copper panels together, stay away from a gun.
The problem with generic soldering irons, is that they are only rated by wattage. Say you get a 100 watt iron. Which is huge, by the way. If you are trying to solder battery cables together, it will pump vast amounts of heat into the joint, which is what you want.
You have to get the wire to the minimum temperature. And, that much copper is going to soak up the heat.
So, the iron maybe limits out at 800 degrees. But, its temp is determined by how fast the heat is absorbed or radiated out vs how fast the element can produce it.
So, if you try to solder a small wire, it may hit 1200 degrees and ruin the joint.
So, they sell low wattage irons. They work great on small joints, but cannot put out enough heat when you try to solder big wire.
The good Wellers do it right. They put fairly large wattage heating elements, then use a thermostat to regulate the heat.
For small joints, they only cycle on occasionally. But, when you need the heat, they can crank it out.
If you are going to do mostly car work, this one is nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-TCP12P...sr=8-1&keywords=weller+12+volt+soldering+iron
Runs off 12 volts, uses the standard Weller tips. The tip determines how hot it gets. The one that comes with this is a 700 degree tip. When you hook it up, it heats up to 700 degrees fast and then the iron cycles on and off to maintain that temp.
You can buy different size tips if you need them. Stick with 700 degrees.
This one is the workhorse of the industry.
http://www.amazon.com/WTCPT-Tempera...8&qid=1436763415&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+wtcpt
They make fancier ones, and some of the newer ones are really nice. But you walk into any decent electronics shop, and while you may see some of the hot air rework units, adjustable temp units, all kinds of things, but you will see one of these, and odds are it will have the most wear and tear from use.
It uses the same tips as the 12 volt one.
I have two of the base units at my two main shops, plus one that floats from place to place.
I have one of the 12 volt ones in the truck toolbox.
Get either one of those, plus that Multicore solder, and it will make you look like an expert.
Just so many parameters.
First, it seems that the tree huggers may be losing. The good stuff is back.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/389261/82-105-ND/2498903
That is 60/40 Multicore in the tiny size. You can use it for the big wires too, but you use it up fast.
Its probably too small for your use, but it works great. Due to its small size, it melts quick and wets the joint well.
Actually its perfect for the tiny wires you are trying to solder, but its small for general use.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/395439/82-142-ND/2498940
This is my standard size that I carry to a job. For general wiring, its great. But, since I do a lot of really small circuit board work, I make sure I have some of the small stuff with me.
Now, as to the iron:
I'm sure that there is better stuff out there than Weller thermostatically controlled pencils, but I don't use them.
Unless you are soldering copper panels together, stay away from a gun.
The problem with generic soldering irons, is that they are only rated by wattage. Say you get a 100 watt iron. Which is huge, by the way. If you are trying to solder battery cables together, it will pump vast amounts of heat into the joint, which is what you want.
You have to get the wire to the minimum temperature. And, that much copper is going to soak up the heat.
So, the iron maybe limits out at 800 degrees. But, its temp is determined by how fast the heat is absorbed or radiated out vs how fast the element can produce it.
So, if you try to solder a small wire, it may hit 1200 degrees and ruin the joint.
So, they sell low wattage irons. They work great on small joints, but cannot put out enough heat when you try to solder big wire.
The good Wellers do it right. They put fairly large wattage heating elements, then use a thermostat to regulate the heat.
For small joints, they only cycle on occasionally. But, when you need the heat, they can crank it out.
If you are going to do mostly car work, this one is nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-TCP12P...sr=8-1&keywords=weller+12+volt+soldering+iron
Runs off 12 volts, uses the standard Weller tips. The tip determines how hot it gets. The one that comes with this is a 700 degree tip. When you hook it up, it heats up to 700 degrees fast and then the iron cycles on and off to maintain that temp.
You can buy different size tips if you need them. Stick with 700 degrees.
This one is the workhorse of the industry.
http://www.amazon.com/WTCPT-Tempera...8&qid=1436763415&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+wtcpt
They make fancier ones, and some of the newer ones are really nice. But you walk into any decent electronics shop, and while you may see some of the hot air rework units, adjustable temp units, all kinds of things, but you will see one of these, and odds are it will have the most wear and tear from use.
It uses the same tips as the 12 volt one.
I have two of the base units at my two main shops, plus one that floats from place to place.
I have one of the 12 volt ones in the truck toolbox.
Get either one of those, plus that Multicore solder, and it will make you look like an expert.
Yep, it was the industry standard from back in the 1920s I guess. It was the first solder I ever used.
I graduated to Multicore and never looked back. Its just more forgiving. But good old Kestor will get you there.
Size is pretty good too.
On the small size for regular wires, but only slightly larger than the smallest I recommended.
Note: It will work fine for regular wires, you just have to add more once it starts to flow.
I graduated to Multicore and never looked back. Its just more forgiving. But good old Kestor will get you there.
Size is pretty good too.
On the small size for regular wires, but only slightly larger than the smallest I recommended.
Note: It will work fine for regular wires, you just have to add more once it starts to flow.
Butt connectors are only for trail fixes. They do not constitute actual vehicle wiring.
For wiring like that I would place large heat shrink over the bundle first, then small heat shrink on each wire. After soldering, shrink to insulate each wire, then pull the large piece down and shrink over the whole thing. The heatshrink is not just for insulation, but also helps prevent bending at the joint, because the solder makes the wire brittle there.
For wiring like that I would place large heat shrink over the bundle first, then small heat shrink on each wire. After soldering, shrink to insulate each wire, then pull the large piece down and shrink over the whole thing. The heatshrink is not just for insulation, but also helps prevent bending at the joint, because the solder makes the wire brittle there.
true that Blue, I love me some heat shrink, put that stuff on everything
