how do you remove spring bushings??

[73redblaze]

im trying to remove the old bushings from some 56's so i can put in some front bushings. how the hell do you get them out? i tried a u-joint press, but it only pushed the internal half way out and didnt move the rubber at all. i was thinking of just melting it out... is that a good idea or no? pour some gas on the rubber and let it burn up? pros cons?

 

[George_Pimpdaddy]

heard some drill them out making alot of holes to weakin it

 

[rollin36s]

BURN IT OUT its the only way use a propane torch if you can but gas will work too just do it outdoors it smells and makes thick black smoke

 

[jtrux]

Took my friends to a spring shop and they had a tool that took them right out for a couple bucks.

 

[4X4HIGH]

They press out very easy. Just take them to a machine shop and have them press them out for you. Now it's another story if you are installing urethane bushings that require you to re-use the outer shell then you need to burn them out.

 

[NV_K5]

I just burnt mine out with acetyline (no spelling isn't my game). Then installed urethane and whooola - huge mess to clean up - put drywall or metal under the mess or you'll hate it.

 

[dremu]

If you want to keep the sleeves, i.e. you're using stock style bushings, you're in for some fun OTOH, you really *really* want poly bushings. Just a set of greaseable polies will increase flex considerably, now and for the future

See

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/greasebushings.htm

If you are putting in aftermarket bushings, i.e. ones that don't require the the sleeves, then go to town. If you have one, the oxy-acetylene torch is the fastest motivator, as you just melt the rubber out (it smells BAD, btw) and then chunk out the sleeve.

If not, careful drilling is in order. I say "careful" as breaking a bit off is easy, and makes it even harder to get a clean cut through the thing. BTDT. Once you have a decent-sized hole, you might use a small sawzall blade (like a jigsaw) in there.

I remember messing about with a propane torch and just making a stink, then switching to the drill and eventually, brute force with a chisel (aka the big flathead screwdriver) and a small sledge. Then a bit of cleanup with the Brillo pad on the inside of the eye ... but then you think about a coat of paint, and maybe some teflon or UMMHW tape... it snowballs

Anyway, that's the other great thing about putting in the poly bushings ... you can beat the living snot out of the old ones, and as long as you're careful not to score the inside of the spring eye, the new ones just sliiiiiiide on in

-- A

 

[73redblaze]

yea im gonna burn them out thanks for all the advise guys

 

[73redblaze]

so melting them out just with gas didnt work. i let my buddy borrow my torch and he moved out of state with it.. so im goin try and find a machine shop that will do it. i called 2 places but they didnt speak enough english to know what i was asking.

 

[73k5blazer]

They press out very easy.

Try that with a vehicle from the rustbelt. They do not press out. They become forged with the sleeve and the sleeve becomes one with the spring eye via rusting, so the rubber ingrains itself right into the eye. Massive heat is the only way. Vice, coffee can below, torch, ventilation.

 

[Avery4jc]

Need a bigger press

You'd be surprised what a good size press can do... I've pushed out PLENTY of bushings and parts that were rusted solid with our press at the shop.

 

[bp71k5]

I also tried the burning method for about 2 minutes and it was a huge stinky mess.

It was way easier and faster to stick the blade of the sawzall through the bolt hole and cut through the inner metal sleeve with a sawzall and down into the rubber a little and then hammer a chisel right through the sleeve along the cut. Once you split the sleeve and the rubber, it's much easier to get out. I removed the one I tried melting and the other three is under a half hour total.

 

[mr250twostroke]

My cheapo 20 ton HF press worked perfect, barely took paint off the press. Took the metal sleeve w/ it and... poly's went in nice. These were old springs too. Only way to do it imo, took 10min!

 

[dremu]

Hey, I know that press! I welded a set of casters on the bottom, 'cuz my garage is small and I have to rotate my stuff around to use it ... but otherwise I can't complain. [Though the UPS guy can ... my local store didn't have it, so I bought it from the catalog w/ free shipping, and those things are HEAVY ]

-- A

 

[mr250twostroke]

Hey, I know that press! I welded a set of casters on the bottom, 'cuz my garage is small and I have to rotate my stuff around to use it ... but otherwise I can't complain. [Though the UPS guy can ... my local store didn't have it, so I bought it from the catalog w/ free shipping, and those things are HEAVY ]

-- A

Indeed they are heavy... my local store had it on sale and I snuck in a 20 percent off coupon, guess those dont work anymore.
Glad to know I aint the only cheap bastage out there.
My UPS guy hates me for many other reasons though.
Casters are a great idea, I have some major beef ones laying around -

Probably overkill but hey, they were free .

 

[morcav]

Drill Em!!!!!

 

[kgblazerfive]

I torched mine out and will torch my next set out, don't have a press but I can still do it in ten minutes the smoke keep the bugs at bay.

 

[roadnotca]

My way; springs off the truck, MAPP gas torch the rubber until the inner sleeve drops out, air hammer with chisel or point tip, cut out the shell.

 

[Greg72]

There are two major "rites of passage" that every serious K5 guy needs to make.

1. Removing spring bushings
2. Drilling / Grinding out frame rivets for shackle flip


These are two of the most miserable jobs for a young enthusiast with limited tools in his shop. Once completed you will have an emmense satifaction and a new and humbled appreciation for how difficult a "simple" job will sometimes be....

 

[Chaddy]

I used Mapp gas and a punch that was the perfect diameter to push them out.