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how far a 10 bolt can go?

suntadz

1/2 ton status
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May 15, 2005
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bay area, ca
I have a 87 stepside k10 actaully but all the same it has 10 bolts front and rear. I was in the process of picking out some suspension mods for my new wheeler. Kinda new and this is my first rig. Ive read alot but wanted some opinions from a regular group. I was going with ORD 2.5" shackle flip and a 2" spring in back for a 4" lift. A straight 4" spring for the front to match. Now is where i got some issues. I was debating on doing a 1" body lift and then sticking 35's on it instead of the 33's but will my axles suffer? Will i have to regear? Will I have to regear with 33's anyway? I cant afford much after the suspension mods right now but was thinking of putting and tru trac in the front if my budget allows. Then decide if I should switch the rear later if I can keep the front axle. So far Ive join a club and we seem to have done mostly hill climbs in mud and snow so im not sure how much abuse or rock climbing I will grow into. Just didnt want to spend money on 10 bolts if Im just going to look to replace em later. Any opinions would be great. Im also on a budget cause of the kiddies so nothing to extreme or the wife wont allow it.:wink1:
robb
 
stick with 35s and your 10 bolts will probably do you just fine. have you checked what gears you have now? auto transmission? i'd wanna be runnin 4.10 or 4.56 for 35's.
 
I believe there stock gears of 3.73. not too sure, yea its a auto with a 700r4. Is the 1" body lift a good way to go to get the 35's to fit. I wanted to keep the lift as low as possible for 35's. looks like i got to spend some money on regearing then ehh. thanks for the input.
 
you can do 35's with 4" with minimal trimming. i used to run 35x12.5's with a 4" spring up front and i would only rub when my suspension was real twisted up. i didn't run a sway bar either so that allowed the axle to move a lot more.

and about regearing...yeah you can regear your axle, or maybe find a pair of 3/4 ton axles. they are often geared a lot better, and the rear will be a lot strong than your current 10 bolt. lots of variable here especially when trying to compare costs, but there is a wealth of info on this site.
 
I have 35"s with my 4" lift. I had to trim a little but not much. If I were you I'd try and find axles with the gears you want (I'd go with 4.56 thats what I got in mine) I regeared my front (back was already 4.56 (good job PO :doah:)) and I definately regret it. It cost more than if I'd just gotten another axle. Are you in the bay area of CA I'm guessing? Where at? I'm by santa cruz.
 
yea im in east bay near concord. Ive ben looking at a axel swap but was wondering if it was worth it too cause i figured i might have to rebuild a axel i get anyway. so many choices. looks like b4 i do anything else from the lift right now i will just keep a eye out for a set of axles. I was thinking 4:10 for freeway use but not sure.
 
I am running 35's with a 6" lift and 3.73 gears, its ok on the highway but screw that! I am swapping in a posi carrier with 4.56s until I can get my hands on dif axles. I would regear it but I would also do it yourself if you can or find a buddy or someone on here to help you out because the front is expensive
 
You should be fine with 4" and 35s and some sledge and/or sawsall. Id settle on tire size first and then build from there. You'll find concensus that 35s on 10Bs works, especially with auto trans, but thats about as far as 10Bs will take. 35s are sort of a threashold between staying with six bolt wheels/10B axles or stepping up to eight bolt wheels/D60+14B. With 700R4 and NP208 or 241, you have super low already, and reasonable 4th for highway.
Plus, with a SBC in a shortbed K10, you have as light a rig as it gets.
 
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