What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

How many D60 front users are running studs or bolts in the u-bolt plate?

Which are you running?

  • Studs

    Votes: 52 39.1%

  • Grade 8 bolts

    Votes: 77 57.9%

  • Grade 5 or less bolts

    Votes: 4 3.0%
  • Total voters
    133
Bolts for now. I have a super lift u bolt kit on the way. So to the other 2 that are waiting on thier superlift kits.....How long have yours been on order? Back ordered? Where did you order them? Mine have been back ordered for about a month now. :eek1:
 
jays68yak said:
Bolts for now. I have a super lift u bolt kit on the way. So to the other 2 that are waiting on thier superlift kits.....How long have yours been on order? Back ordered? Where did you order them? Mine have been back ordered for about a month now. :eek1:
Click to expand...
Superlift makes a kit to replace the bolts with a u-bolt? One guy in my club just made his own u-bolt with like a 4 1/2" bend diameter and I was planning on doing that but if someone makes a kit that'd be badass.
 
afroman006 said:
Superlift makes a kit to replace the bolts with a u-bolt? One guy in my club just made his own u-bolt with like a 4 1/2" bend diameter and I was planning on doing that but if someone makes a kit that'd be badass.
Click to expand...

We are talking about front 60 ubolts that hold the axle to the springs right???? A front 60 only uses 3 ubolts. The 4th, what should be the u bolt, can either be bolts or studs. Thats what this thread was asking about. Superlift part number 3418 is for the dana 60 front and comes with 3 u bolts and 2 studs.


And I guess to answer my own question....I had this ubolt kit on order from summit. They kept back ordering it and its been 3 weeks since I ordered it. They just changed the BO date to 11/7. I called this morning and canceled it. Just went to 4wheelparts and get the stuff.
 
USA made grade 8 bolts...
They've held-up to my abuse...that's for sure. :D :D
 
jays68yak said:
We are talking about front 60 ubolts that hold the axle to the springs right???? A front 60 only uses 3 ubolts. The 4th, what should be the u bolt, can either be bolts or studs. Thats what this thread was asking about. Superlift part number 3418 is for the dana 60 front and comes with 3 u bolts and 2 studs.


And I guess to answer my own question....I had this ubolt kit on order from summit. They kept back ordering it and its been 3 weeks since I ordered it. They just changed the BO date to 11/7. I called this morning and canceled it. Just went to 4wheelparts and get the stuff.
Click to expand...

I originally had the Superlift u-bolt/stud kit and the studs were way too long. I wound up threading the 5/8 course thread some more but it was a pain, and then they broke (NOT anywhere near the area I threaded BTW).
 
I'm on my third set of grade 8 bolts and also had to helicoil the housing. The degree shims are going to be gone soon, I hope that helps. Next time I have it apart I'll give studs a shot.
 
I'm talking about using a large u-bolt instead of bolts or studs in order to eliminate them completly. I'm running 6 degree shims and dont like the way the bolts are so I'm looking for an alternative.
 
I much prefer studs on anything other than a stock application. It's not the strength of the bolt that worries me. Where I've had and seen problems is in getting a bolt started straight when using degree shims. Personally, I just use the D60 Ubolt kit make by Superlift and sold by 4WheelParts. I broke 2 grade 8 5/8" bolts on my blue truck and after grinding them out, I replaced them with 3/4" grade 9 studs. I think that maintaining proper torque on the bolts/studs is the most important factor. I check the torque on all my Ubolts every time I change the oil (twice a year or so) as well as 50 miles or so after any component installs or having anything apart.
 
79Beast said:
...I check the torque on all my Ubolts every time I change the oil...
Click to expand...
I think this is part of your problem. If you use a locking compound and torque them properly the first time they should not need any more attention. Messing with them to 'check they're tight' after the locking compound has set is just breaking the compound loose and will allow the fixture to loosen over time. Put an indexing mark on the bolt and visually check it once in a while.

On another note. Degree shims under the spring are not going to allow proper clamping of any fixture unless the equal and opposite degree shim is used on the top of the spring to make the bolt clamp evenly again.
Travis
 
I am running stock size grade 8 bolts, cannot comment on their durability though since I have not driven it yet :doah:

On a side note but kinda on the same topic I have a question that I hope is not straying too far. When I installed my 60 I was installing the bolts and before I even started tourqeing the 5/8" bolt it stripped :mad: . So instead of removing the axle to install a helicoil I go tlazy and drilled and tapped and installed the helicoil whith the axle in the truck. Long story short I drilled the hole crooked so now the 5/8" bolt does not sit flat on the spring plate. Do you think it will shear right away since it does not have even clamping force as is or should i try it and see. I think the only way to fix this would be to drill and tap it for a larger size helicoil(maybey 3/4" to match the front?), but then I am worried that there will not be enough material around the edges of the bolt and will end up breaking the casting? Any comments on this? Sorry if I strayed to far from the original thread :crazy:
 
Here is a good example: Notice what I am using... NOTHING (mock up only). I have spent the last year digging out the remnants of a sheered off bolt. I will have studs. Big studs. 3/4 studs. Grade 8 3/4 studs. It has been pure hell grinding, paying, drilling, and swearing. My last swear was "I swear, I will never let a friend do this to his front end". I almost had to buy a new high pinion housing and start over. Just put a stud in it.

blazer 007.jpg
 
ARP makes steering arm studs... anyone know if they make studs that will fit in the spring-plate app? Could be a good option, the steel ARP uses for its fasteners is bling.

j
 
Here's his next two posts after the one you quoted. He keeps on insisting that he wants a ubolt to go around the side of the pumpkin. I don't see how it's possible without custom grinding, cutting, and welding. Even after all that there would be no gaurantee of a good fit let alone consistent repeatability. Not worth the hassle IMO.
Travis
afroman006 said:
Superlift makes a kit to replace the bolts with a u-bolt? One guy in my club just made his own u-bolt with like a 4 1/2" bend diameter and I was planning on doing that but if someone makes a kit that'd be badass.
Click to expand...
afroman006 said:
I'm talking about using a large u-bolt instead of bolts or studs in order to eliminate them completly. I'm running 6 degree shims and dont like the way the bolts are so I'm looking for an alternative.
Click to expand...
 
afroman006 said:
I'm talking about using a large u-bolt instead of bolts or studs in order to eliminate them completly. I'm running 6 degree shims and dont like the way the bolts are so I'm looking for an alternative.
Click to expand...

6 degree spring plates will clear that up just fine.
 
Grade 8 studs on mine. I think the problem with bolts is that they can bottom out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom