CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

How many spent $6500 on their 8" lift

1crzy88

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Posts
119
Reaction score
0
Location
NOR Cal
I want to know that question... i just added up the total i spent on my 88 K5 for an 8" lift...(with $2K for rims and tires(37's))... I about **** myself when i was done... and i did 90 o/o of the labor myself...:crazy:
 
Ok, I'll ask...



How did you rack up $6500 in just a lift kit, tires and wheels? I assume this was for the 88 K5 listed in your profile.
 
let me tell you

well let me tell you how it all started...


14 bolt, disc conversion, new rotors, cal, brake lines... $500.00

lift kit: heinz 57...TC, skyjacker, pro comp, ord, superlift, sky-man, spydercustoms... and so on. $2500.00

Swap 6 to 8 lug front (new rotors, backing plates, cal, lines): $500.00

Brake work: about $800.00

CV drive shaft (rear) $550.00 (can't afford the front yet)

Rims and tires $2000 (37x12.5x17ssr on 17x10)

Mis: welding, alignments, few studs, and so on

and that doesn't even include my front drive line.:D


I thought that i was going to spend 3K not 7K.:frown1: I only spent 4k for the truck.

Troy
 
rear driveshaft that still has slip yoke $550??
6-8 lug swap $500?? I got $60 in mine
Brake work $800??

Dude not to be so rude but dood did you shop around at all??
 
damn, $2000 invested in tires and wheels and 37s is all ya got? I spent about half that and roll on 39.5s. ;) just playin', wheelin rigs is a rich guys hobby, no way around it unless you have lots of friends that owe you huge favors and you get lots of bling chit for free. :xmas:

j
 
1crzy88 said:
well let me tell you how it all started...


14 bolt, disc conversion, new rotors, cal, brake lines... $500.00

lift kit: heinz 57...TC, skyjacker, pro comp, ord, superlift, sky-man, spydercustoms... and so on. $2500.00

Swap 6 to 8 lug front (new rotors, backing plates, cal, lines): $500.00

Brake work: about $800.00

CV drive shaft (rear) $550.00 (can't afford the front yet)

Rims and tires $2000 (37x12.5x17ssr on 17x10)

Mis: welding, alignments, few studs, and so on

and that doesn't even include my front drive line.:D


I thought that i was going to spend 3K not 7K.:frown1: I only spent 4k for the truck.

Troy
I dont know where you got your parts but you got ripped off pretty badly. You could have also choesn a much cheaper setup that accomplishes the same thing. For example: You could have bought 15x10 steel wheels for $50 a pop, and 37x12.50x15 mt/r's for about $220 a pop. My brother just got an 8-lug front conversion that you paid $500 for, for $40 and that includes shipping to our door. I got a cv shaft for the rear of my blazer (with the same t-case as yours) for about $100, plus another $75 for a lengthening and thicker tubing. I dont have any clue what you did in brake work that cost $800 if you already figured in the disk brakes for the rear.:confused: And why the hell did you use 8+ different lift manufactures to create a lift? "heinz 57...TC, skyjacker, pro comp, ord, superlift, sky-man, spydercustoms... and so on" For $2500 in a lift, you better have platinum springs and at least 30 shocks on the badboy. Ive got about $500 or a little more in mine and I would bet I have more flex. You could have run an ord shackle flip in the rear, and some springs from tuff country or bds in the front and accomplished the same thing. You could have probably gone 4-link for that much dough.
-Harrison
 
K5-$300
8 lug 10bolt and 14ff-free
LS front-$100
Rear welded-free
5.13s-$455
Motor rebuild{air gap intake, new pistons-ect., machine work(heads&block), headers and duals, new carb}(and then later tbi installed) $1000
8 lug steelies 9.75x16.5-$75 ebay
15/42-16.5 tls-$885 ebay
6" all spring lift, dual stearing stabs, stearing arm, new shocks, brakelines-$1000
14ff disk conversion-$200 complete
NP205 complete-$125
Drive shafts (make my own)-free
Looking for a free D60:D

$4140 total
This is all stuff that I did to upgrade. All the stuff I replaced was sold to help pay for each new mod over the coarse of 3 years. So I've actually only have about 2/3s or that in mine. The tires and gears I'm doing now and the disk conversion I done last week. I don't think your really complaining about the money but about how quick you can spend it on something like this. I buy lots of cheap parts trucks and make my spending money from them. I'm married with two kids and have a single income household so I stay mostly broke. I'd say slow down and shop around. None of us have build our K5s in a day. :D
 
Could you tell me where to get 15x10 8 lugs steel wheels for $50 each? I shopped around and this is half of the lowest price I found.
 
$6500 on the lift? I don't have but $7500 in the entire Suburban. It has less than 100,000 original miles. Am I missing something here? What does a $2500 lift kit include? 800 for brakes? :eek:
 
How much we have spent on our trucks sure is a touchy subject. I personally try not to keep track. Also, I'm not sure if you should count spending money on drivetrain parts the same as spending money on a lift. I can see tires and wheels getting counted in, but not drivetrain or brakes. I'd hate to add up some of my costs, but I'll post them so you can estimate the costs and add them up in your head...just don't tell me. Also, know that there were a lot of times I took the cheaper way out and it just didn't work well for me. An example would be welding the diff in the D70 rear I started out with. I couldn't keep axles in it. Now I've had my Detroit locked FF14 for a couple years and I only broke one axle in it to date.

D60 front axle, lockright that I broke and then Detroit that I installed with my 5.13 gears, 1350 pinion yoke, crossover steering from ORD with .375 wall tie rod, upgrade to 35sp. stubs along with several replacements before I bought the Superior front axles with CTMs, BAMF extended slip front driveshaft, Warn premium hubs, Redneck Ram, various seals and bearings

14bolt rear with Detroit, 5.13s, Dutchman shafts, disc brakes, 1410 yoke with .120 wall HAD shaft and yoke for Tcase.

8" skyjacker front springs with ORD shackles.
4" Tuff country 56" rear springs turned backwards to move the rear axle back with ORD shackle flip.

19.5x44-15 Boggers on 15x12 steel wheels

Warn HS9500 winch, MOO engine crossmember, poly engine and tranny mounts

I could go on listing parts that I made rather than bought, junkyard parts, replacements for broken parts, doors I caved in and replaced, a new windshield after a trip to Tellico.....it never ends. And all my labor was free since I did it....of course with the help of some friends.
 
79Beast said:
Could you tell me where to get 15x10 8 lugs steel wheels for $50 each? I shopped around and this is half of the lowest price I found.
Summitt racing sells them for a little less than $50 in white or black. You can also buy steel monster wheels which are probably stronger for about $70 a pop (which is still less than the 100 you mentioned) If you shop around, good deals you will find.
-Harrison
 
pull your foot out of my a$%

You guys have to remember that i bought EVERYTHING brand new. i bought the hubs for my front conversion for cheep, but then by the time i bought new rings bearing, and so on it go to that price. Next the lift is superlift front with ord shackles and the rear is TC 4"s(56's backwards) with sky flip kit. when i said "57" i ment that i used procomp u blots, skyjacker front and rear break lines, so on. And the brake work was plumbing the whole truck with new lines, including the rear for the dick conversion w/ steel braided lines to the cal. Also i have all brand new cals and rotors fornt and rear. You have to remember that i did buy 17's not 15's. i do drive this thing every day so i did want a little BLING. but my rims were only $600. If i would have went cheep i could have spend ALOT less but i figured that when you do something like this, you should do it right. Thats what i did, i build it for wheeling and DD. All of you know that when you do **** like this to a truck you always run into problems. and i have only had the truck for about 3 months.:D

Troy
 
And i wasn't meaning to have this say "HEY LOOK AT ME I GOT RIPPED OFF" because i didn't i looked for these parts along time before i bought things. I figure that i ll have about 30K into this by the time im done.:D and thats ok with me its better than a new truck.

And everthing on this K5 is 1TON not half ton (except for the front axle:D yet)
i want you to show me where you can get a 1 Ton CV drive shaft with 1350's for under $500. ill buy two i need a spare. also i didn't list every little detail. Most people don't realize how much you spend in this sport.

Troy

PS. and it does you no good telling me that you got rims for $50. Yes i am not a dumb ass. i know that 15" STEEL rims are cheep. But thats not what i wanted.
 
79Beast said:
Could you tell me where to get 15x10 8 lugs steel wheels for $50 each? I shopped around and this is half of the lowest price I found.

I paided $26 each the first time and $32 each the second time (2 sets of rims) for my 15x8" 8 lug wheels at Discount Tire. This was before the price of steel went threw the roof but I would bet that you could still get the steel rims from Discount tire for under $50 each without problem.

Mine are Unique Brand white wagon wheels.

Harley
 
i dont think ripped off even begins to cover it. that's definitely in RAPE territory

'86 C10 $500
'79 K10 $350-ended up having bad frame
'78 K10 frame $200
SM465/205 hydro setup $385
flywheel/clutch kit $225
driveshafts $100
K20 axles (10/14FF) $150
K30 axles $800
misc bushings $150
hardware $75
39.5 TSLs/MRT Beadlocks $1000 -picking up soon...
SRW D60 hubs $150
brake upgrades $200
6" TC EZ Ride springs- $150 to the door
Echobit shackle flip $15
exhaust $100
$300+/- for a Detroit
$350 for crossover

right around $5000 in it, and i've built a complete truck from the ground up. now i've just got to get all of these parts to one place, and get them put together. :rolleyes:
 
Top Bottom