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How much do you have in you 14bff/d60 combo?

Mastiff

Mastiff

1/2 ton status
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Everyone seems to have this, but I'm not sure how to get into it without sinking $5-10K into it. Is there a secret way? I could scavenge my CUCV, but I'm still using it... I expect the junk yards are all picked over. I can do the install, but I don't trust my welds for moving perches or anything like that.
 
depends on how much it was to start, DRW or SRW.

Mine was only $68 from a junkyard, but in DRW form, so $400 to switch. Then the rebuild started, yukon axle shafts, superjoints, spartan locker, carrier, gears, drive flanges, and paint. lol

Just what "cost" are you looking for?
 
Too much. :doah:

That being said it can be done fairly "cheap" if you just leave stock gears, do basic crossover steering and if you do a locker just do something inexpensive like a grizzly in the rear.
 
Mine

D60
Drw to srw
All bearings, seals, brakes
4.88s
Lockrite
$2300

14b
All bearings and seals
Mini spool
4.88s
Disc conversion
$700

That includes purchase price. Without steering. I also got all the parts at wholesalers cost.
 
I bought the pair for $1042 (included shipping from Oahu to Maui when I was living on the islands) 14 bolt came with a locker.

By the time I bought the disc conversions, new gears, perches, U bolts, overhaul kit, and misc parts I probably have $1200 in additional parts into the 14 bolt.

The D60 I have drive flanges, diff cover, and gears for (totaling $545) By the time I add the 35 spline stubs, overhaul kit, crossover, and misc parts I'm guessing it will be an additional $950.

My total estimated cost will be about $3737.

If you don't regear, upgrade to rear discs, upgrade to 35 spline stubs, etc... you can do it rather economically.
 
Hmm bought k30 srw for $1000 then sold off everything but engine and d60
so about $500 for d60 purchase then basic crossover from wfo concepts on black Friday sale 20%off hydro assist new seals hd diff cover new spindle bearings wheel bearings andnew spicer u joints and welded spider gears so I have maybe $1200 in my d60

14bff from a van $100 cleaned it up painted it disk brake conversion pinion guard and an axle swap kit maybe $400 total

So a grand total of $1600 invested in a set of srw tons that way I spent my extra cash on a doubler
 
I guess I'm kind of ignorant on the steering part. Does something have to be done, or is it a nice to have type of thing? Is it most common to convert to 5 lugs or to replace your wheels? Thanks for the info.
 
Paid $660 for a set of SRW tons with 4:10 gears, lucked out on a wanted add I put up on kijiji. I basically Stole em for that price around here.

Front: Master install kit, grizzly locker, 35 spline yukons, Spicer Joints, Warn Hubs, brake pads, 1/4 ebay diff cover= $1500 or so off the top of my head

Rear: ORD disc brake brackets, new rotors, Grizzly locker= $800 or so as well.

So about $2960, not including the lock right I blew up this spring :haha:
 
Mastiff said:
I guess I'm kind of ignorant on the steering part. Does something have to be done, or is it a nice to have type of thing? Is it most common to convert to 5 lugs or to replace your wheels? Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

It's very uncommon and a step backwards to switch back from 8 lug to 5 or 6 lug.

It's easier to switch to crossover steering on a kingpin Dana 60 (no replacement knuckle required) and more expensive to make the stock type steering work, so many jump straight to crossover.

IME a Chevy Dana 60 runs between $800-1200 depending on condition and SRW/DRW. Many people who claim cheaper prices found complete trucks (who don't know that they're worth) or people that don't know that they have. Again, in my experience, those are very hard to come by and you could spend many years to find a $500 kingpin Dana 60.
 
38377k5 said:
It's very uncommon and a step backwards to switch back from 8 lug to 5 or 6 lug.

It's easier to switch to crossover steering on a kingpin Dana 60 (no replacement knuckle required) and more expensive to make the stock type steering work, so many jump straight to crossover.

IME a Chevy Dana 60 runs between $800-1200 depending on condition and SRW/DRW. Many people who claim cheaper prices found complete trucks (who don't know that they're worth) or people that don't know that they have. Again, in my experience, those are very hard to come by and you could spend many years to find a $500 kingpin Dana 60.
Click to expand...

I'm confused. Isn't SRW/DRW to do with whether or not it's a dually? Is the front axle different on a dually? Thanks.
 
it has different hubs that make the wheel seating surfaces between both sides wider

consider the amount of front rim back spacing a dually truck has
 
Mastiff said:
I'm confused. Isn't SRW/DRW to do with whether or not it's a dually? Is the front axle different on a dually? Thanks.
Click to expand...

The GM D60 dually front axle's wheel mounting surface is 8" wider (i.e. 4" wider on each side), other than that they are virtually identical. The front axle is much wider on a dually and then the wheel has TONS of backspacing (to make the wheel sit much closer to the frame) to make up for it. They do it that way so there is only one spare tire needed for the whole vehicle.
 
I paid $1500 for a complete cucv. So I figure a grand in axles. Approx 300 for rear discs and 200 for warn hubs. I did a crossover from ord and ran them. So far so good. Deals are out there if you've got cash in hand and are ready to buy right then
 
Thanks for the info. Yeah, a CUCV sounds like a good option. I'd get the gears I want plus the rear detroit. Just need to ditch the super heavy drums. The perches do need to move for a K5, right?
 
14-bolt = $100 from the local junkyard, welded diff = free, disc brakes = about $100 for brackets and line, had rotor and calipers off the old 10-bolt, about $75 for u-bolts and a few other misc. items

D60 = $750 for a running (but completely rusted body) K30, $350 Lock-rite, about $300 in u-bolts, calipers, u-joints, etc... to make it work. The plan was to sell the rest of the drivetrain from the K30 (350, SM465/205, 14-bolt) to recoup some cost...but I won't go there on what happened.

So maybe $1,700 for a set of 1-tons with lockers and disc brakes. Already had tires and wheels.

I have upgraded over the years, but none of this stuff is required to go off-road. 35-spline stubs and flanges, cross-over steering, hydro-assist, heavier tie rod on the front. I did rebuild the rear with new bearings (forget, but maybe $150 for kit) and installed a pinion guard.
 
I spent about $1k buying my d60 & d70hd (separately) but I'm probably a little over $4k now after rebuilding / upgrading / steering. :doah:
 
$900 1979 k30, $500 for a detroit, $350 for a front lock right, $100 in bearing and seals, $150 in hd covers, $440 in cross over $150 in rear disks, Free high steer, $100 in hydralic assist. So alot 2690. Of course the K30 was running and driving and had a sm465/205 that is still working great. Pry have 8k-10k or so in my truck, still cheaper than a payment.
 
I have no clue, I have had my tons for quite a few years now and have replaced bearings once or twice, couple of pinion bearings, a yoke, several axleshafts, several hubs, new cover etc etc etc.

I got my tons for free though ( well I helped a guy with a motor swap) so my initial purchase was probably 800 bucks for kingpin rebuilds new bearings ( both axles) diff cover and a front locker.

I have to do it on the cheap. My 60 for the Jimmy is another zero cost axle but I will probably have to put 500 bucks into it, looks like it needs new brakes and probably new bearings, gotta pull it apart to see whats going on
 
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