How much do you have in you 14bff/d60 combo?

[76zimmer]

14BFF...$100 for the axle I thought was a good deal w/ 4.56's. The pinion gear had a crack, so new gears, a Detroit locker, a couple bearings and seals, DIY4X cover, Disc brake conversion, and a 1410 yoke...$1461

D60..Drw to Srw hubs, Lockright locker, repair 1 kingpin (threaded kingpin was stripped loose in its "C"),

rebuild the other kingpins, new bearings, seals, stock 4.56 gears and axleshafts, new solid ujoints...


sums it up like this:

original purchase....................$500
labor for repairs to kingpin........$195
labor to rebuild axle, install locker kit, make zerk protectors,
and clean axle.......................$325
parts as listed above..............$800
Lockright locker.....................$340
SRW hubs, discs, studs...........$340
DIY4X cover..........................$100
Total D60 build cost.............$2600

 

[jt512]

Most recent set
D60 from CUCV in junkyard -$250
Rotors, pads, calipers - ~$200
Spartan locker $370
King pin bushings and springs $30 ish
ORD steering ........stolen from my K5
Inner axle seals ~$20 ish
1410 strap yoke, new on eBay. $35

14 bolt FF from 3/4 ton CL find $200 w/ 4.56's and a gov bomb
Welded gov bomb $00
DIY disc brackets $70 can't remember
Lines and calipers - free from another axle
Rotors -$60
Seals - $20

So I'm at about a grand into the 60,not including the hydro assist, or the x over, and around 350 for a welded 14 bolt with discs .




Oops, forgot about the covers , DIY flat backs front and rear , $90 each IIRC

 

[Dheater]

14 Bolt was 400 w/ 4:56 and detroit
*Disk brakes with proto type e-brake free
*new bearings and seals 120.00 don't ask those seals get expensive
*Ruff stuff cover
*New brake lines
* new drive shaft

Total for the 14 bolt = $1200

60 Front 4:56 with trac posi unit
Reid knuckles
bronze bushing
spring less arms
crossover steering
Hydraulic assist
new brakes
new rotors
bearings and seals
Blood
I have not touched the axles yet...other than u-joints
About $2500

I quit tracking it, I figured that would help cut down the beer! I was wrong

 

[owenst7]

$200 for springless steering arms with bushings and studs + acorn nuts

$1000 for the 60 & 14 bolt. Ran them as-is with 4.10s for two years.

$130 + shipping for a pair of diff. covers.

$100 in wheel bearings and seals for the 60.

$150 in lower kingpin kit + 2 Spicer 1480 ujoints

welded carriers front and rear...free

$245+tax thick 5.38 LP 60 http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8683564-dana-60-lp-5-38-thick-motive.html (Sparks, NV Summit price-matched so I got free shipping to my door)

$178.54+tax thick 5.38 10.5" 14 bolt http://autoplicity.com/products/2547107-g2_axle_gear_22023538x_gm_14b_10_5in_5_38_thick.aspx (Summit also price matched and had them in store)

~$300 in gear set-up kits (bearings, seals, RG bolts, shims, marking compound, etc)

Like I said, I wheeled them as-is for two years without doing anything but throwing the steering arms on there, so that makes it $1200 to install. I'm at $2400 locked and geared with all new moving parts now. Front brakes are excellent, the rear shoes are getting pretty thin (that reminds me, I spent $18 on new wheel cylinders a few months ago). When the rear needs new shoes, I'll probably switch to discs.

 

[mudmobeeler]

Bought a one ton junked out beat up farm truck from a guy for $500, he thought he was robbing me. Dropped a battery in it and it started right up and drove on the trailer. Cab was junk, flatbed was beyond repair so they got hauled to scrap and I got $300 and some change for them. Sold the 4 bolt main 350 for $300, sold the rear axle for $100, Sold the tranny for $100. Kept the front 60, the 205 case, and the frame (which is fixing to get hauled off) So I am in the positive on my 60, but I need/want to rebuild it and it was a dually so it needs converting.

Bought a 3/4 ton 2 wheel drive for $250, kept the steering box and the column and the rear 14 bolt, hauled everything else off and got about $300 at the scrap. So I am also in the positive on my ff 14 bolt. It also needs to be rebuilt and get some upgrades.

Getting a 3/4 ton burban from a guy sometime for free, I just have to pull the fuel system including the tank and give it back to him. Then will end up hauling it off because it has lots of rust so I will get some money there, and I will keep the ff 14 bolt rear axle and the rear springs to put on my burban.

Bought an 87 one ton dually a month or so ago for $1500. It has a fi 454 that will go in the burban. And another dana 60, which NEEDS to be rebuilt and converted to srw and then find its new home under the front of the burban. The cab is in decent shape so it was gonna go on my blazer frame as the blazer body is trashed and I didnt have a title for it. But Im looking for something else/thinking of something different since the blazer is no longer in my possession at this time (long stupid ass story) So while I feel I gave a little too much for the truck to keep it on the road as a truck I feel ok about the price for what my intentions were.

 

[Mastiff]

What vehicles have the axles I'd want (besides CUCV)? Specifically, do 3/4 ton trucks have the right stuff sometimes? I thought they often had semi-floats in the rear, do they have good D60's in front? How about gearing, how low did the factory go? Right now I have 4.56, but I could be happy with 4.10 since I'm just running 35s.

Logistically, how do you get rid of a truck with no axles? I can see myself with some beater up on stands with no axles, scratching my head.

 

[Cruz89K5]

What vehicles have the axles I'd want (besides CUCV)? Specifically, do 3/4 ton trucks have the right stuff sometimes? I thought they often had semi-floats in the rear, do they have good D60's in front? How about gearing, how low did the factory go? Right now I have 4.56, but I could be happy with 4.10 since I'm just running 35s.

Logistically, how do you get rid of a truck with no axles? I can see myself with some beater up on stands with no axles, scratching my head.

3/4 tons have the big 14 bolts in the rear on occasion, but no 60's. 1 tons are the only place you'll find a 60 in a GM. 4.10's are common.

How to get rid of it? Put your old axles under it, put it on craigslist complete or as parts or haul it to the scrap yard.

 

[jt512]

What vehicles have the axles I'd want (besides CUCV)? Specifically, do 3/4 ton trucks have the right stuff sometimes? I thought they often had semi-floats in the rear, do they have good D60's in front? How about gearing, how low did the factory go? Right now I have 4.56, but I could be happy with 4.10 since I'm just running 35s.

Logistically, how do you get rid of a truck with no axles? I can see myself with some beater up on stands with no axles, scratching my head.

Dana 60's only came in 1 tons, 3/4 will have a 8 lug 10 bolt or d44, but will have a 14 bolt with proper spring pad spacing to swap into a 1/2 ton, a 1 ton rear will need the spring pads moved to bolt into a K5 or other half / 3/4 ton rig. Common gear ratios from the factory seem to be 3.73's, 4.10's and 4.56's.
I like 4.56's with 35's, had that combo in a K5 I used to have and it worked well with the OD auto I was running.

As far as getting rid of the carcass of a parts rig, around here I constantly see adds for people who will buy scrap metal and haul it away for free or junk yards offering cash for cars and will tow away for free. Me, I just drag whatever is left onto my trailer and take it to the scrap yard myself and get a few bucks back, or you can cut it small enough to fit into the bed of a pick up etc.

 

[Mastiff]

Can anyone tell me whether a Dodge D60 front is okay for use on a K5? What are the differences, if any?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Can anyone tell me whether a Dodge D60 front is okay for use on a K5? What are the differences, if any?

Assuming we're talking '93 and older kingpin Dodge Dana 60's (you don't want anything 94 and newer).

Differences:

They are 2" narrower than Chevy Dana 60's, most don't care too much about that

Their spring perches are 1/2" different than Chevy's, easy to fix with bushings/spacers.

Similarities:

All of the wheel bearings parts, shafts, brakes (well, the rotors are 1/4" narrower than Chevy but they interchange, same calipers), kingpin parts etc. interchange with other kingpin axles.

Cons:

Most (all except ~91-93) had external hubs which are notorious for loose bolts that cause failures. On top of that, there is very little/no aftermarket support for external D60 hubs. I've seen one place IIRC that makes 35 spline drive flanges for external D60 hubs, no one makes 35 spline lockouts. Converting to internal hubs is the same story as converting a dually Chevy D60 to SRW (well, you need lockouts too I guess)

The diff is very offset, like the '85 and newer Ford Dana 60's. Not a big deal if you're using leaf springs but makes link very difficult, you'll end up welding to the cast iron housing.

They use 9/16" bolts into the housing rather than 5/8" like GM. Easy to fix.

 

[Mastiff]

Update. Got a CUCV set for $1800 (4.56, detroit rear). Both of them ended up in the shop. The 14 went in to get the perches and shock mounts moved, then I noticed the 60 had a tweaked perch and took it in. The guy noticed too much slop in the pinion, tore into it and ended up replacing all the bearings. Total bill to get both axles home: $1200.

So I'm $4k in. At the least I'll need to buy a U-bolt flip kit for the 14b since the mounting hardware is shot anyway. I need to redo the TREs on the 60. Oh, and I needed new drums and brakes for the 14b, which was ~$200 in all.

Then there's tires and wheels: count that as $2000.

 

[Highpsi]

Update. Got a CUCV set for $1800 (4.56, detroit rear). Both of them ended up in the shop. The 14 went in to get the perches and shock mounts moved, then I noticed the 60 had a tweaked perch and took it in. The guy noticed too much slop in the pinion, tore into it and ended up replacing all the bearings. Total bill to get both axles home: $1200.

So I'm $4k in.

Ok, I am definitely no math whiz, but something doesn't jive here.. 18+12 would be 3k right?? At any rate, I wouldn't feel too bad about your investment. You're not out of line for what you've spent. Sounds like you got about what you should into it from what I've seen available during my searches over the last year.

I paid $2800 to travel about 400 mi. round trip to go pick up an open D60, and 14FF with a detroit. The guy had a really nice set of barely used 38" TSL SX's, an NP205, TH400 tranny, disc brake conversion for the 14FF with the beefy brackets and so on, so that was a halfway decent find I figure. The guy had bought all the stuff to go into a rig he was building, but had to sell it all for wedding money! Right place at right time and Craigslist score again!

But that was just the start - I have lots more into it now because of the typical stuff that the other guys have been talking about here too. I think Chris' post back at the beginning of this thread was very accurate to say that a guy can go around looking for a "deal" on those axles for a very long time if he wants a good desirable pair. Maybe some of us are lucky enough to live right around the corner from the junkyard with magically resupplying hard to find parts, but I sure as hell don't... And there's others that have a place that will accommodate buying a complete K30 and gutting it for the goodies but that's a matter of means too.

Enjoy your purchase and don't look back! Keep us posted and PHOTOS PLEASE!

 

[Mastiff]

Good catch. $3k doesn't sound as bad.

 

[rebelgregory]

Don't feel bad about the 3K. Some guys on here will tell you they got CUCV axles in trade for pocket lint and their pet ferret.

I can tell you where I live, you can get CUCV axles, but $1500 is the going rate. That's what I paid. And I'll have about 3K in them once it's all said and done. And that's with no real axle upgrades, just disc brake swap, ORD crossover steering, some new bearings, and a little elbow grease and paint. I don't regret it.

And since we all like pics, here's some before, during, and after of the rear. Front still in progress, but the dana 60 'before' looks similar to the 14 bolt.

 

[rebelgregory]

After:

 

[Mastiff]

Looks good. Is that the ORD U-bolt kit? how'd you deal with parking brake?

 

[rebelgregory]

Yes. U-bolts from ORD. Plates and perches from WFO Concepts to move the axle back 1".

I'm running eldorado calipers using the kit from Great Lakes Offroad. Swap calipers left to right to put the e-brake levers 'up'. This puts the bleeders 'down' so you have to bleed the calipers while disassembled and bleeder upright. Cut the spring of the e-brake cable so that it's just the cable and the sleeve.The calipers come with their own (shorter) e-brake spring that I will use. Use Dorman bolt-on cable stops to shorten the cable as necessary.

I'm out of town and don't have any pics, but let me know if I can help and I'll get you some when I get home.

 

[Mr.Clean]

Picked up my set for $1400. Both are open but had 5.38's in them already and rear had disc conversion already. Went through 14bff and replaced every bearing and seal in it. Along with new rotors, calipers, studs, and pads. Replaced some of the bearings and seals in the 60. Just have to get calipers pads rotors and studs for that and it's done and I think I'm at $2200 total. Eventually I do plan on lockers but that's done the road.

 

[Mastiff]

Pic of 14-bolt, as requested. This is the before picture. The CUCV tan is kind of cool, it's tempting to use that color again. I may go with machine gray too. Something besides black might be fun for a change.

By the way, can anyone confirm that I can just plug in my existing parking brake cables in here and attach them to the arms?

 

[rebelgregory]

For machine gray or whatever, I like Seymour Cast Blast - http://www.seymourpaint.com/cast_blast.html

Its not cheap, but I've had good luck with it as far as not having rust bubble through, etc. Also, it has a very good bare metal appearance. If you look in my above pics, the axle shaft flange bolts and diff cover are painted with it.