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How much front driveshaft slip?

After 361 post.....There has to a derail or two....Or three....Or four.:D
 
I kept on track as best I could.

It wasn't a links vs leaf springs debate to start. So I tried to share my experiences.

I have yet to have a driveshaft failure (other than the stock double cardan joint needing rebuilt), and I have ran the piss out of my rig in the sand almost every chance I got the last 2 years straight. And ran it decently hard, but not as crazy for the 2 years prior.

4 years with the ORD springs now, and the front shaft setup, and zero issues.

CYCLE YOUR SPRINGS, SETUP YOUR BUMPS, and GREASE YOUR SHIT.

:D
 
I kept on track as best I could.

It wasn't a links vs leaf springs debate to start. So I tried to share my experiences.

I have yet to have a driveshaft failure (other than the stock double cardan joint needing rebuilt), and I have ran the piss out of my rig in the sand almost every chance I got the last 2 years straight. And ran it decently hard, but not as crazy for the 2 years prior.

4 years with the ORD springs now, and the front shaft setup, and zero issues.

CYCLE YOUR SPRINGS, SETUP YOUR BUMPS, and GREASE YOUR SHIT.

:D


What he said
 
Ahhhh! I hate this thread! I wanted a (you definantly need this, from this manufacturer, no questions asked) answer. Not only that, it needed to be affordable!
 
What slip are you using? Does it have a bellows on it? Pics?

I have no idea lol.

I bought it from @mrk5 for like $25 and it had Toyota flanges on it. Had the slip swapped onto my stock front shaft.


Oh one other thing, are you guys grinding the CV stops on your shafts? You need to do that.

Grind them all the way off so it rotates nice and smooth at full angle.
 
Ahhhh! I hate this thread! I wanted a (you definantly need this, from this manufacturer, no questions asked) answer. Not only that, it needed to be affordable!

No such thing as bolt on for this stuff man.

If you want bolt on, buy a razor.

We can get you close, but at the end of the day, every rig is slightly different.
 
Yes, I'm grinding the stops, but not completely. Technically they are there to prevent a drive-shaft pole-vault event if the front U-joint breaks, but touching the ground at ride height may be higher than touching the yoke at full droop in which case you don't have much choice. With a 4" lift or so, the stock CV stops are practically touching at ride height. If you droop and ride the stops, bad things will happen.
 
Yes, I'm grinding the stops, but not completely. Technically they are there to prevent a drive-shaft pole-vault event if the front U-joint breaks, but touching the ground at ride height may be higher than touching the yoke at full droop in which case you don't have much choice. With a 4" lift or so, the stock CV stops are practically touching at ride height. If you droop and ride the stops, bad things will happen.

It wont hit the ground. Grind em all the way.



 
I'm pretty sure I read this whole thread so sorry if this is a repeat. What's the verdict on greasable vs non greasable U-joints? I can pick up some heavy duty Spicers at Speedway on my way home.

image.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure I read this whole thread so sorry if this is a repeat. What's the verdict on greasable vs non greasable U-joints? I can pick up some heavy duty Spicers at Speedway on my way home.

I'm not sure if there's a verdict. I believe the non-greasable are marginally stronger. I went with them on my front axle because I don't trust myself to get in there and grease them anyway. The non-greasable will hold their grease better I suspect too. My Tom Woods shaft came with greasable ones, but it looks painful to do, requiring a special tip and I can already see the grease just pouring out the sides of the needle instead of going in.
 
I grease everything every trip. If you do that, go greasable IMO.

If you are not going to, the non greaseable joints seem to have way better seals from my experience. They create a vacuum and actually make it kind of a pain to pull the caps off. I put them in my axle joints due to not running 4wd that often, and they don't see the same abuse that I personally put on my driveshafts or steering components.

I try to go greasable spicer everywhere else. I hate the moog u joints with the dumb needle style grease fitting in the cap also. Spicer for everything.
 
4wheelinfury hasn't jumped his blazer and has broken his short slip driveshaft twice, it doesn't matter if you air it out or not. My argument this whole entire thread has been to take measurements, crunch the numbers and then get the required driveshaft slip. I like to err on the side of caution and get a longer slip than the bare minimum I need to squeak by with. It gives you flexibility with axle location adjustment, lift height adjustment, etc and ensures that you ALWAYS have enough spline engagement, period, end of story. I've never once seen a driveshaft fail because it had too much slip but have seen many fail because of too little slip.
 

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