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How much front driveshaft slip?

Out with the Tatton extended slip (i.e. "X-spline") and in with the Tom Woods XB. Hopefully this will keep the blue plastic on for a long time.

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Here's some cut-away pictures of the Tom Woods XB. While the spline is at least 7" long, the webpage rates it for only 4.5" of stroke, while the standard short spline ("S") is rated for 3". Perhaps that rating is based on having the same amount of spline engagement as the S type.

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What joints did you end up with for the double cardan? 3R still? I need to get a high angle 1310 or 1350 for the front. I still would like to keep the saginaw flange, but could switch to a yoke if needed.
 
Yes, I'm still running 3R-style CV in the front. I run the same Saginaw flange for the rear 1350 CV as well.

I commuted with the new shaft yesterday and the boot pulled off. I suspect they built the shaft a little short, but regardless of overall length I'm having a hard time seeing how this boot is capable of the 4.5" stroke they advertise. Plus, with 7" of spline I bet a lot of users will use more than 4.5".
 
Depends a lot on the springs. I haven’t measured, but the added length caused by adding the Doubler decreased the amount of slip I needed
 
After my inquiries, Tom Woods says the shaft is not ideal based on the measurements I had given. He wants to convert it to XC, as XB doesn't work well with flexy leafs.
 
After my inquiries, Tom Woods says the shaft is not ideal based on the measurements I had given. He wants to convert it to XC, as XB doesn't work well with flexy leafs.


Tell him you will be going to dunefest. He is sending swag and gift certificates our way.
 
so what's the verdict on the front driveshaft ? My race blazer uses every bit of 4.5" of slip travel, but my spline length is over 10".
 
Wish ya'll would find me some more up travel and stop worrying about all this need for down travel. Ain't nobody got time for that!
 
Notch the frame then.
I would rather worry about notching the frame and oil pan clearance to gain uptravel..... than stressing about more down travel, U-joint binding, and shaft slip length.

I really don't want to come off like an ass, I'm always up for a good debate and learning stuff, so I will say this.
My transfer case is clocked and transmission is pushed up, so my T-case output is higher than most (not all I know). I'm running a regular 1350, or maybe it's 3R, CV joint. The slip is maybe an 8" slip, I dunno, it's nothing fancy and no blue wear coating. Front shocks are 14" travel, ORD 52" springs with axle moved up ~2". I don't have any problems. No CV binding, shock travel is good, and DS shaft travel is good. I don't know why all the need for droop. If you are running huge tires, and stuffing them into the fenders, it doesn't seem right to limit up travel, relocate shocks for more down travel, and then have issues with all that mess. I normally don't find myself wishing I had more droop, I wish I had more tuck.

Sometimes, the more droop you have, the more vertical the body gets, the closer you are to flopping over. I suppose that's more of an issue for down hill and flat obstacles.
 
I don't think I disagree, but when I got ORD springs, droop just came along for the ride. I could manage the droop or put limit straps I guess. With my limited skill set, managing droop with long shocks and such is easier than hacking apart the body and other things to allow uptravel with small lift.

I would rather worry about notching the frame and oil pan clearance to gain uptravel..... than stressing about more down travel, U-joint binding, and shaft slip length.

I really don't want to come off like an ass, I'm always up for a good debate and learning stuff, so I will say this.
My transfer case is clocked and transmission is pushed up, so my T-case output is higher than most (not all I know). I'm running a regular 1350, or maybe it's 3R, CV joint. The slip is maybe an 8" slip, I dunno, it's nothing fancy and no blue wear coating. Front shocks are 14" travel, ORD 52" springs with axle moved up ~2". I don't have any problems. No CV binding, shock travel is good, and DS shaft travel is good. I don't know why all the need for droop. If you are running huge tires, and stuffing them into the fenders, it doesn't seem right to limit up travel, relocate shocks for more down travel, and then have issues with all that mess. I normally don't find myself wishing I had more droop, I wish I had more tuck.

Sometimes, the more droop you have, the more vertical the body gets, the closer you are to flopping over. I suppose that's more of an issue for down hill and flat obstacles.
 

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