The beans is ask @K85 Octane where he got his. I feel like it was just a local driveshaft Shop that had them.
CK5
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How much front driveshaft slip?
- Thread starter Mastiff
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Front shaft has a long slip, .250 wall, 1350cv, and 1350 pinion joint. I like the slip up by the cv/ tcase side out of harms way...
While I like the idea of the slip being up high, I wonder if it wears more than the traditional lower slip. I always considered that style to have more side loading during compression travel. The shorter side, like the traditional style, slips over the splines. I look at the shorter side as being lighter and with less side forces being so close to what makes it move, the axle that is.
But I don't know, probably better to have it out of the way. I haven't hit my splines, but there's always tomorrow.
But I don't know, probably better to have it out of the way. I haven't hit my splines, but there's always tomorrow.
Yeah, it was just a local place. I will have to ask them.
I went long slip so when I move my axle forward and go full hydro in the future, its one less thing to have to spend money on...the shaft pictured above has 18" of slip and its fine spline...lol
Full “not twisted” droop. We all know the trail will ask for more. Wish I had info on the slip. Have to remember to call Monday.
Damn! Yup get me that part number!!!
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Bringing this one back to the top....
Measured at ride height, full droop, and twisted droop passenger. Still need full bump passenger. ORD 4” springs with forward miunted 10b and NP208.
I haven’t installed my new longer bump stops, so using a 4x4 stuffed in between the spring plate and frame. That prevents 2-3 inches of further spring/shackle travel. I need to get the shaft coming before I can mount the bump stops. I’ll take the rest of the measurements first thing tomorrow. How much more should add to my compressed number for those final 2 inches until full bump?
Same question on droop. Based on what these ORD springs should be capable of producing, I’m not getting full droop in the driveway. I’m getting 5-6” down instead of the 8”ish I should. I disconnected the drag link in case it was limiting. Should I assume that the trail will get it further and add some to the measurement? How much?
Ride height
33.5-34.5” t/c to yoke bolt(depending where on t/c flange)
Axle 4.5 degrees up. T/C 3 degrees up
Full droop 37-38”
Axle 1 degree down T/C ???cant find my paper
twisted pass down 36-37”
Full bump/compressed
TBD
Both sides droop. Got another .5” after pic but should have an inch or two more. If I stood on the tire, it seemed to lower further.
2-3” left before full bump.
2-3” left of droop based on specs.
Measured at ride height, full droop, and twisted droop passenger. Still need full bump passenger. ORD 4” springs with forward miunted 10b and NP208.
I haven’t installed my new longer bump stops, so using a 4x4 stuffed in between the spring plate and frame. That prevents 2-3 inches of further spring/shackle travel. I need to get the shaft coming before I can mount the bump stops. I’ll take the rest of the measurements first thing tomorrow. How much more should add to my compressed number for those final 2 inches until full bump?
Same question on droop. Based on what these ORD springs should be capable of producing, I’m not getting full droop in the driveway. I’m getting 5-6” down instead of the 8”ish I should. I disconnected the drag link in case it was limiting. Should I assume that the trail will get it further and add some to the measurement? How much?
Ride height
33.5-34.5” t/c to yoke bolt(depending where on t/c flange)
Axle 4.5 degrees up. T/C 3 degrees up
Full droop 37-38”
Axle 1 degree down T/C ???cant find my paper
twisted pass down 36-37”
Full bump/compressed
TBD
Both sides droop. Got another .5” after pic but should have an inch or two more. If I stood on the tire, it seemed to lower further.
2-3” left before full bump.
2-3” left of droop based on specs.
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I forgot to add that I didn’t feel comfortable lifting the truck further with the lift. At the point that I stopped, both back tires were in the air. Also wanted to add that the 4x4 was for driveway testing. When I reread my post I realized that it sounded iffy.
You need to back that truck up a ramp at a minimum and then start measuring. What’s your driveshaft angle off the t-case?
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I’ve only been measuring the angle of the transfer case flange.
Current driveshaft fell apart when relocating the axle a month or so ago. I removed it and didn’t try it again. It may reach at ride height, and I can check tomorrow. I’ll measure if it does.
I don’t have the faintest idea where a rti, suitable ramp or feature would be, so I was trying with a hoist. Since I don’t have suitable bump stops, I figured I needed to be more controlled during the test. I was hoping that I could add a little to account for the extra and call it good. My plan is likely Tom woods long travel spline and otherwise stock. Using his superflex joint if need be. I am leaning that direction due to the quicker turn around.
Current driveshaft fell apart when relocating the axle a month or so ago. I removed it and didn’t try it again. It may reach at ride height, and I can check tomorrow. I’ll measure if it does.
I don’t have the faintest idea where a rti, suitable ramp or feature would be, so I was trying with a hoist. Since I don’t have suitable bump stops, I figured I needed to be more controlled during the test. I was hoping that I could add a little to account for the extra and call it good. My plan is likely Tom woods long travel spline and otherwise stock. Using his superflex joint if need be. I am leaning that direction due to the quicker turn around.
I like your thoughts about getting the long slip, but having the measurements as close as possible is best. I know that you will get more droop. Mine has 37s which measure 35.5". This is what I found while testing with a forklift. Notice the top of the tire in relation to the bottom of the fender. ORD springs.
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I guess I need to keep thinking about a better spot to test or steal a fork lift. I have true 37s but definitely haven’t seen as much droop as you.
Yeah, find something to drive the bus up onto!!
454Sub
5/8 ton status
I was going through this for my 52in swap and thought of something.
Having the splined end of the driveshafts up high kind of makes sense, but durability wise the tube will dent and sausage twist the tube long before you damage the splined end enough that it couldn't be used.
Having the splined end of the driveshafts up high kind of makes sense, but durability wise the tube will dent and sausage twist the tube long before you damage the splined end enough that it couldn't be used.
Go down to a large parking lot nearby. A Prius is about the right shape.
Now pick it up at the front of the frame rails and see how the driveshaft measures.
I already did that too. I haven't twisted it by lifting the front yet, or gotten to take it wheeling....
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