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how much rust do you have?

jpdrake

1/2 ton status
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Oct 31, 2005
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Location
mass/ cape cod
i just gutted the interior of my 88 k5 and i think im gonna need some suggestions. i have the lmc catalog im wondering if anyone has used there sheet metal? or any other suggestions on where to buy a new floor. i have the usual rust at every body mount and the tail gate. any ideas or tips would be appreciated.
 
Not much rust around these parts. The 91 S-10, '90 Suburban, and '94 Suburban are all rust free. :cool1: The '75 K5 has a little rust, but that was from the ONE winter that I drove it in Massachusetts. :doah: I don't miss the evil road salt at all! :D
 
Well, my 72 has very little, just some surface. My 83 needs cab corners, a drivers side rocker, and it got a new bed. The 88 blazer I'm looking at has 100% no rust :D
 
I know what you mean livin up here guy. Check out the work on this one. What do you need for parts and what year is it? I have some extra stuff and let it go cheap.
 
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i didnt have to unbolt my bed floor to get it off of my '73. hell, i didnt have to unbolt the bed period. :eek1:
 
OK you got me beat. LOL Ive had bad rot on my blazers and pick ups but thats unreal. Looks like it was parked in salt water.
 
Yup--seen that before Beater K20!!

We had several trucks at the junkyard like yours was..we'd just put one fork of the forkloader thru the window on the cab,and lift it up--90% of the time the chassis only came up 6" or so before it dropped back down,and the cab popped free--without touching a bolt,or cutting anything!..

Usually the only things we needed to cut were the E-brake and speedometer cable,and the steering colum shaft to get the cab off!--if it was a bit stubborn,a few "shakes" with the loader popped it right off most of the time...same with beds too--we'd just spear then with the forks and lift em right off!....

We didn't have many beds worth saving there,or cabs either!..most junkyards in warmer climates used old beds to pile cores in,or other scrap,to make it easier to load into trucks..not here!--none of the beds had much of a floor--most had only bedliners,or sheets of rotted plywood!..some of the best beds we had were flatbeds with 2x8 planks instead of steel instead of wood "stakerack" bodies..they actually held up rather well... :crazy:
 
i dont understand it. the body on that truck was trashed. and the frame was 100% perfect, still is even after a hard demolition derby. went back to back with my buddy in his '66 F250, and ended up hitting rails together, bent his and cleaned the rear shackle hanger completely off the frame, mine has a tear in it about 1" deep. :rolleyes:
 
yup--night and day!

We were often amazed at how good the chassis was compared to the sheet metal too,after stripping several GM trucks that were rotted to dust!..often the frames actually had some paint still showing in places!..my 79 C10 has a nice frame,still painted in most places,no rot at all! --how I wish it was a 4x4!

My 74 K20 HAD a nice frame when I got it in 91(frame was a 77 actually!)
I even painted it with asphalt based chassis paint when I first got the truck--it lasted 5 years,then it fell off in sheets like saran wrap..when I cut it up this summer,the body AND chassis were spiltting apart like delaminating plywood!--I could push a screwdriver thru the frame,and break off big chunks in my bare hands!.only where the plow pump and transfer case leaked was mint!--the rest was a shame.. :(

The 73 k10 frame I just cut up for scrap sat under pine trees for 10+ years--as I cut it up,I felt bad,thinking I should have put my K20's axles under it,and kept it..but the cab was patched 3 times over,and rotted to death again..also thought of saving and using the spring hangers,etc,to convert my C10 to 4wd--but I am in not in good enough health to do that kind of a job anymore--I've had enough..done it too many times already,and seen too many rot away in record time after all that labor..very discouraging :( It would be different if they lasted 20 years,like if you lived in arizona..

The calcium cloride road salt they started using here in the 90's really EATS steel bad!..I don't remember rock salt being so caustic,it used to take years for steel to rust ,now it takes only a few months after being exposed to the "new" road salt..I'm all for safe roads,but not if my truck dissolves in 5 years!(brake and gas lines only last 2 years here now--even newer 90's trucks are popping brake lines already--they must use recycled steel or something!).. :mad:

I heard GM's plants were flooded in detroit in the early 70's,and many rolls of steel sat submerged in water in the basements of the stamping mills where the body panels were made..I beleived it--the 73-75 trucks rotted faster and worse than any other years ,despite the body style staying the same..many guys who bought a "new" gm truck due to the new style body and liked the looks of them were disgruntled a few years later,when holes were appearing above the rear wheels already...

One girl I dated in high school had a father who bought a nice 73 K20 brand new--I remember him letting me take his daughter to the movies in it--(he didn't like her riding in my 56 Chevy 3200 pickup much.)..I recalled his tail lights being held in mostly by duct tape,his rear quarters were rotted so badly already (this was late 75!)..I joked my 56 had less rot than his did! :haha:
and the frame on my 56 was 3/8" thick too--at least twice as thick as any GM truck 1960 and up I've seen..they don't make 'em like they used too.. :(
 
I think I saw a bit of rust on the head of one of the screws holding one of my interior panels. :thumb:

I've had the carpet pulled back inside, and nothing but nice pretty painted metal under there.
 
Jcwhitney

Hey I am about done redoing the body and floors on my 86 blazer I bought all my parts from Jcwhitney.com patrs price about the same some a little cheaper but there shipping is a whole lot cheaper also right now you can buy now and get 10 to 15% off total also do not have to pay for 90 days if you have a credit card waiting my new carpet it should be in soon. hope this helps you :laugh:
 
The bottom of the floors in my cab are all rusted out but the PO put a peice aof black sheetmetal to cover it up. My rockers are in good shape tho...my tailgate doesnt work anymore, when i pop it down it falls off the hinges. The bottom of the bed isnt all there and the walls and wheel wells are all rust, no paint to be found :mad: Dam plastic bedliner covers it all up tho, and my uncle does spray-in bedliners but i cant even spray it cuz of the rust. My frame is in decent shape, but i did have to replace the rear springs hangers, they had holes in them, wasnt really safe :eek1: But now the rear of my frame is a nice black, still have to do the rest. Some day i'd like to restify my truck, rust free would be sweet.
 
LMC sheet metal is thin guage crap from china. I had my passenger side floor replaced and wish I would have never used there metal...
 
Finally took some pics to show ye rust. :mad:

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Not bad only needs some rocker panels. the worst is yet to be seen.

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Now that is gross. Turns my stomach to see that.

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Gone right along the seams.
Believe it or not the Driver side isnt as bad. Only gone along the seam in the back. But dont I have work cut out for me.
 
Well no need to put a pickup cab on..just get a rust free blazer body. That's what I was going to do until I scored a rust free pickup cab for $20 :D I seriously think the body swap would be easier and more cost effective (unless you have a welder and really enjoy doing THAT much cutting / welding :confused: ).
 

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