beags86
Eastbound and Down
No. It doesn't have dod. It's just a pile of shit.Displacement On Demand problems eh?
My 06 SS likes to drink a quart every thousand miles or so
CK5
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beags86
Eastbound and Down
I can assure you I feed every horse every day with my right foot
My 1952 Dodge gets an oil change every spring. Every other year, I change the filter element. In between, I wash the element out. But then again, I don't put a whole lot of miles on it
Billyworld
I now know that i will never finish this truck.
If you don't change the oil, you don't have to change the filter
I note that WIX now has extended life filters for most of their popular sizes but for use with synthetic oil. The whole problem with changing or not changing oil filters is you just don't know what is going on.
There are about 3 ways a filter can fail.
Physically fail, split, leak, etc.
Stop up and go into bypass.
Internally tear or develop holes.
Only the first one could be detected by the driver. It would not be cheap, but not too difficult to install a differential pressure gauge across the filter.
That would tell you the amount of pressure drop across the filter. In use, you would look up the bypass pressure for that filter, and mark it on the gauge.
Then, note the beginning pressure, and expect it to slowly go up. If it got close to the bypass setting, then the filter needs to be changed despite miles.
A sudden drop would indicate an internal failure.
Of course, the amount of restriction pressure would change with flow, so you would need to pick an RPM to do the measurements at.
Differential pressure gauges are not cheap, but work well. You attach a piece of tubing from either side of the filter lines to the two fittings on the gauge.
The gauge does not measure the actual pressure of the oil, unless you have a model that does dual readings. Instead it displays the difference between the two fittings. And thus the amount of restriction of the filter.
But, you would probably be money ahead to just replace the filters every time.
BTW, my new Honda Passport, recommends changing the filter every other change.
Not gonna happen.......
There are about 3 ways a filter can fail.
Physically fail, split, leak, etc.
Stop up and go into bypass.
Internally tear or develop holes.
Only the first one could be detected by the driver. It would not be cheap, but not too difficult to install a differential pressure gauge across the filter.
That would tell you the amount of pressure drop across the filter. In use, you would look up the bypass pressure for that filter, and mark it on the gauge.
Then, note the beginning pressure, and expect it to slowly go up. If it got close to the bypass setting, then the filter needs to be changed despite miles.
A sudden drop would indicate an internal failure.
Of course, the amount of restriction pressure would change with flow, so you would need to pick an RPM to do the measurements at.
Differential pressure gauges are not cheap, but work well. You attach a piece of tubing from either side of the filter lines to the two fittings on the gauge.
The gauge does not measure the actual pressure of the oil, unless you have a model that does dual readings. Instead it displays the difference between the two fittings. And thus the amount of restriction of the filter.
But, you would probably be money ahead to just replace the filters every time.
BTW, my new Honda Passport, recommends changing the filter every other change.
Not gonna happen.......
Changed the oil & filter in my 6.2 pickup yesterday,went with SAE 30 from Walmart in the 2 gallon jug ($17.99) ...first time I've put SAE 30 in it..this stuff is SN-CF rated,which is adequate for an older diesel like mine..
I put a AC PF1218 oil filter on it,I had several hanging around ,I had bought at least half a dozen when a local department/home/auto store chain closed up last year,they had Champ & AC oil filters for $1.99 on clearance..also bought 2 cases of SAE 30 Wolf Head oil for $24 a case ,that is also SN/CF rated..I use that in my air cooled small engines..
The engine had a Champ filter on it before,and the oil pressure was bewteen 30-45 lbs cruising along past idle,with 15W-40..at idle it was between 15-25 psi..the gauge needle flutters around at certain rpms,its always done that,probably the sending unit..
Now its barely going over 30 psi at any speed..
I also added about 3/4 of a quart of Marvel "Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer" I had,that is much like Lucas oil stabilizer,only it is red and smells just like Marvel Mystery Oil..it is thick gooey stuff like STP,etc..
I was expecting the oil pressure to go up with SAE 30,not a bit lower..
Especially with the stabilizer stuff added
..only thing I can think of is maybe the AC oil filter has more resistance to flow that the Champ one,and it reduces the oil pressure some..
..maybe the pressure will go up after some miles,I've had other engines show lower pressure after changing the oil for awhile ,then it increases some later on..like the fresh oil thickens up after some miles..
The engine seems much quieter at idle than before,but at a fast idle or cruising it still is a clatter-mobile..
I also added about 1/2 a quart of SAE 30 to the fuel tank,I think that made more difference than anything.!.put 55 miles on it earlier this morning on back roads cruising to and back from the flea market..
One thing puzzled me--I drained all the oil oil out and was able to put it in a 5 quart jug without overflowing--the engine is supposed to hold 7 quarts..the filter might hold a pint,and the oil level was about 3/4 of a quart low when I drained it,so I should have got 6 quarts out..
I put in roughly 5 quarts of the new oil--it is hard to judge just how much you put in ,the jug has no clear measuring level indicator,so you have to guess...I put in over half of the 2 gallon jug-- and the dipstick read full,then I fired it up and let it run a few minutes,shut it off,checked it again,now it was almost a quart low,so I topped it off to the full mark--I think there is only 6 quarts in it though,I even took the dipstick out of my 85 Burb's 6.2 and checked it with that one,it reads the same...now I'm wondering if I've been running it a quart or two "low" or not ever since I've owned this truck....
Next oil change I'll buy single quarts and put 7 in with a filter,and see how high it reads on the dipstick..if its over the full mark and doesn't act "overfilled",I will file a new full mark on the stick..if it hasn't chucked a rod or snapped the crank by then,that is !..
Next on the list of things to do is change the gear oil in both diffs,it is probably the original lube from 1982..I've kept them topped off,but I know they must be nasty by now...I've only kept the transfer case topped up too,never changed it--I have put maybe 15,000 miles on the truck since I got in in 2003 and it did sit a lot..the TH400 I'm sure would like a new filter & fluid too,its seen a lot of plowing abuse..
I put a AC PF1218 oil filter on it,I had several hanging around ,I had bought at least half a dozen when a local department/home/auto store chain closed up last year,they had Champ & AC oil filters for $1.99 on clearance..also bought 2 cases of SAE 30 Wolf Head oil for $24 a case ,that is also SN/CF rated..I use that in my air cooled small engines..
The engine had a Champ filter on it before,and the oil pressure was bewteen 30-45 lbs cruising along past idle,with 15W-40..at idle it was between 15-25 psi..the gauge needle flutters around at certain rpms,its always done that,probably the sending unit..
Now its barely going over 30 psi at any speed..
I also added about 3/4 of a quart of Marvel "Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer" I had,that is much like Lucas oil stabilizer,only it is red and smells just like Marvel Mystery Oil..it is thick gooey stuff like STP,etc..
I was expecting the oil pressure to go up with SAE 30,not a bit lower..
Especially with the stabilizer stuff added
..only thing I can think of is maybe the AC oil filter has more resistance to flow that the Champ one,and it reduces the oil pressure some..
..maybe the pressure will go up after some miles,I've had other engines show lower pressure after changing the oil for awhile ,then it increases some later on..like the fresh oil thickens up after some miles..The engine seems much quieter at idle than before,but at a fast idle or cruising it still is a clatter-mobile..
I also added about 1/2 a quart of SAE 30 to the fuel tank,I think that made more difference than anything.!.put 55 miles on it earlier this morning on back roads cruising to and back from the flea market..
One thing puzzled me--I drained all the oil oil out and was able to put it in a 5 quart jug without overflowing--the engine is supposed to hold 7 quarts..the filter might hold a pint,and the oil level was about 3/4 of a quart low when I drained it,so I should have got 6 quarts out..
I put in roughly 5 quarts of the new oil--it is hard to judge just how much you put in ,the jug has no clear measuring level indicator,so you have to guess...I put in over half of the 2 gallon jug-- and the dipstick read full,then I fired it up and let it run a few minutes,shut it off,checked it again,now it was almost a quart low,so I topped it off to the full mark--I think there is only 6 quarts in it though,I even took the dipstick out of my 85 Burb's 6.2 and checked it with that one,it reads the same...now I'm wondering if I've been running it a quart or two "low" or not ever since I've owned this truck....
Next oil change I'll buy single quarts and put 7 in with a filter,and see how high it reads on the dipstick..if its over the full mark and doesn't act "overfilled",I will file a new full mark on the stick..if it hasn't chucked a rod or snapped the crank by then,that is !..
Next on the list of things to do is change the gear oil in both diffs,it is probably the original lube from 1982..I've kept them topped off,but I know they must be nasty by now...I've only kept the transfer case topped up too,never changed it--I have put maybe 15,000 miles on the truck since I got in in 2003 and it did sit a lot..the TH400 I'm sure would like a new filter & fluid too,its seen a lot of plowing abuse..
@diesel4me the 15w-40 is 15 weight cold and 40 weight hot ...... you added straight 30 weight = less thick = less pressure . you should remember this from all your parts counter days .
That is what you'd think,but "straight weight" SAE oils are "usually" thicker overall than a multi-weight..
The multi-weight 15W-40 flows like 15W at temps below freezing,and "protect like 40W" but probably aren't as thick in viscosity overall..
Anyhoo,next oil change it'll get either 15W-40 again,or maybe even a diesel rated 10W-30...the 15W-40 gets a bit too stiff below 20 degrees and the engine is a lot harder to fire up when its that cold ..
This was basically an experiment to see if SAE 30,what GM says is "preferred" above 32 degrees,really makes any difference..so far I see none,and I suppose the 1982 oil recommendations are no longer valid,since oils have changed so much in recent years..
I was surprised at Walmart,I saw many "new" oil viscosities I never heard of before.like :
Mobil 1 0W-16 !..I knew that had 0W-20 and 0W-30,never heard of 0W-16 though..
They also had 25W-40 marine motor oil !..
There are some 5W-40 diesel oils now too,synthetic only I think..
The multi-weight 15W-40 flows like 15W at temps below freezing,and "protect like 40W" but probably aren't as thick in viscosity overall..
Anyhoo,next oil change it'll get either 15W-40 again,or maybe even a diesel rated 10W-30...the 15W-40 gets a bit too stiff below 20 degrees and the engine is a lot harder to fire up when its that cold ..
This was basically an experiment to see if SAE 30,what GM says is "preferred" above 32 degrees,really makes any difference..so far I see none,and I suppose the 1982 oil recommendations are no longer valid,since oils have changed so much in recent years..
I was surprised at Walmart,I saw many "new" oil viscosities I never heard of before.like :
Mobil 1 0W-16 !..I knew that had 0W-20 and 0W-30,never heard of 0W-16 though..
They also had 25W-40 marine motor oil !..
There are some 5W-40 diesel oils now too,synthetic only I think..
wasted wages
1 ton status
I actually have a gallon of sewing machine oil ,that I used to have to get for my late mom's industrial "Brother" sewing machine..
We had to buy it from a sewing machine repair shop 20 miles away..
Had to bring our own empty gallon jug,they filled it from a huge tank like home heating oil is stored in !..so I have no label,or specs on it..
It is very light viscosity--somewhere between water and diesel fuel.
It's almost transparent,has a slight yellowish tint to it..smells different than motor oil,more like marvel mystery oil..
.
I have used some on electric motors and door hinges,it does penetrate and is a good lubricant..also burns great,I used to put the drained oil in my wood stove to help get it ripping on frigid winter days..
The rest I kept to use around the shop as a general purpose lube..
We had to buy it from a sewing machine repair shop 20 miles away..
Had to bring our own empty gallon jug,they filled it from a huge tank like home heating oil is stored in !..so I have no label,or specs on it..
It is very light viscosity--somewhere between water and diesel fuel.
It's almost transparent,has a slight yellowish tint to it..smells different than motor oil,more like marvel mystery oil..
.
I have used some on electric motors and door hinges,it does penetrate and is a good lubricant..also burns great,I used to put the drained oil in my wood stove to help get it ripping on frigid winter days..
The rest I kept to use around the shop as a general purpose lube..
Displacement On Demand problems eh?
My 06 SS likes to drink a quart every thousand miles or so
Chevy has an updated valve cover, seems the original has a hole in the pcv baffle that lines up with a push rod, so oil just squirts right into the baffle
