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How to Flat Tow K5

BGKYK5

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Ok, I need to move a busted '91 K5 about 200 miles. The trans is shot so it wont move under its own power. Looks like the best option is to flat tow it behind my '89 K5 (no trailer loading/unloading). The towed K5 has a D44 front with lockout hubs. The rear 14bff has a bad pinion bearing and the rear driveshaft is already out. 1990 TBI JIMMY pointed me to the following tow bar: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94696 . Has anybody done this with a K5? What should I look out for as far as t-case (241) and axle lube issues? I have never had a full floater axle apart, can I pull the axles to prevent wear and tear on the wounded diff, and just run on the wheel bearings? Thanks!
 
Nevermind the bit about the bad pinion bearing - that should be fixed before I move it. The tranny is still bad. Just pull the driveshafts (I guess I'll need to keep the rear attached to the t-case and tie it up to keep the fluid in)? Anything else I need to do? Is this a dumb idea?
 
I am also interested in this subject, specifically, what do you do with t-case position? 2hi or N? How about steering wheel?
 
i have towed a ford f150 with my chevy before, u hook it up to a tow bar, i towed the truck for abt 100 miles ofc pull over and check n make sure nothing gets loosen.. make sure key is in on postion and keep steering wheel loose.. every time i turn the ford turns.. its not too bad.. i was worried at first but after a while i know it was safe and did 55 60 mph the whole way. take driveshaft out. but one thing im sayin is if the pinion is broked is it still ok to tow? if u do tow it. dont lock the steering wheel.. turn key on.. then ur ready to go, u turn right the truck will turn right itself, u turn left the truck will turn left itself.. i was suprised.. i think its the force of of turning makes it turn. hope i helped.. it isnt too bad at all.
 
Thanks Xtremegmc80, I hadn't even though about the steering wheel (duh). Anbody have any other tips? Anybody used that (or a similar) tow bar? If so where did you mount it? It looks to me like the best option might be to pull the front bumper and bolt it to the crossmember under the radiator. What do y'all think?
 
if you pull the rear axles, and make some caps to bolt back on out of a plastic antifreeze jug, you won't have to pull the driveshaft, or worry about the pinion. you'll only be rollin on the wheel bearings. only trouble I see is going over monteagle mountain with a vehicle that weighs the same as the tow vehicle, unless you got another way to get it there.
BTW I need a 700r and adapter to build for a project, if you decide to get rid of the one out if it.
 
k204dr,

How bad is Monteagle? I've never been over it before (I've only been in KY for about a year). Is it steeper going North or South? I've been over some pretty steep mountain passes in the Sierra Nevada in CA. Any idea how they compare? Monteagle is part of the reason I want to flat tow it. Those Uhaul trailers would add about 2000 lbs. Unfortunately, I'll only have 1 good 700R4 between both K5s. If you need a core.....

Hey do you know Andy Buhl?
 
I think removing driveshafts and you will be fine, also you don't have to leave the key in the on position click it to the on position and then back to off, the steering wheel will stay unlocked till you take the key out. Double check this I have had a couple of weird steering columns that POs had messed up.
 
I don't know Andy, I just saw your other post about buying the k5 in cleveland and figured it was the same one. all I need is a core trans and adapter to build. Monteagle is no joke, when are you going to tow it? I might be able to drag it over monteagle on the towbar for you since my truck is a 1ton and weighs a bit more than a k5. it would suck to hear you crashed there.
 
The reason the steering wheel follows you is because of caster, the wheels want to stay centered, but when you turn, its easier for them to follow. All geometry a nd a 'lil physics.

-Martin
 
If you buy one from northern tool it gives you detailed instructions on what you need to do for prep.....Like what chains to use and how to bolt it up... like I said in the last post I hauled my T/A over 300 miles and didn't know it was there until I stopped also dont take any sharp turns out of a gas stations I locked the wheels to the right jumpped out on a busy street to straiten them up

JW
 
I used to flat tow my K5 with my 3/4 dodge. I towed from Vegas to Moab one year and had no problems. I removed the rear driveshaft and put the xfer case in neutral and the sm465 in neutral. The truck tracked along nicely behind, but I never felt comfortable with it. I eventually bought a trailer and it is so much better:)
 
I tow my 90 behind my motorhome or F250 CrewCab all the time including 100's of miles of dirt roads in Mexico. Unlock the steering column so that the front wheels can steer as it follows the tow vehicle around turns. No need to remove any drive shafts, just put the Transfer Case in Neutral. I leave the Transmission in Park and unlock the front hubs. Braking is the only time I even know the Blazer is back there. The F250 pulls it at 80 like it isn't even there. I built my own tow bar out of rectangular tubing and use a safety chain (California law requires a safety cable but doubt any CHP's know that) and magnetic tail/brake lites.
 
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