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How to keep 42's out of the firewall?

stallion85

stallion85

1/2 ton status
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I flexed the rig out the other day after the trim job on the fenders. The 42's don't rub on the core support or fenders anymore, but they were stuffed to the firewall.

The attachment points where the inner fenders used to go ripped a few chunks out of the tire with a nice auditory noise to boot.

I already have the axle moved forward 2" and don't think I could move it forward anymore cuz the tires would steer into the radiator.

Can I just beat the heck out of the firewall with a sledge? What could the reprocussions be with this method?

I guess I could also drop my bumpstops some since most of my supsension movement is droop from the 52's...............:whistle:
 
Man, I guess just use taller bumpstops. Even though I dont see how beating in the firewall will really hurt anything.
 
This may sound stupid, but how about, (or as Can Can would say, 'aboot'!) try moving the firewall back ?
 
Go idea!! Try this idea on for size, summit sells wheel tub kits. So, why not cut them in half and cut out a section in the fire wall and weld them in their place?
 
jeff, your running 4" lift right? might wana use a zero-rate as well. then you ccould probably use the reverse hi-steer as well ;)
 
I cut all the peices coming out of the firewall and then beat the firewall back and i only rubbed at full stuff/full lock. this was with a 6" lift.
 
that doesn't give you anymore room it just lets you see under the truck. the pics are from my truck. but it is cool to see the tire almost rubbing on the plexiglass.

I know it's a crazy thought but perhaps if you lifted the truck some it would stop rubbing. it would help your breakover angle also.
 
I ll trade you my 38s for your 42s and you wont have to worry about the rubbing anymore :thumb:

Lower the bumpstops and a BFH :pimp1:
 
alot of toyota guys tub the firewall. some will just beat it in with a sledge and it works fine. but i would cut out a portion and weld in a new piece of sheetmetal formed to fit.
 
I don't really want any more lift. The lower the rig is, the better. I might do a 0 rate up front and move it another 1" forward and sledge the firewall. As far as cutting out metal and rewelding it in seems like a lot of work for a JY crawling machine......:o
 
Jeff, I lowered my bumps 3" (just enough so my drag link doesn't hit the spring) and folded that seam over with a hammer. I still need to do a little more "massaging" in certain areas but at least my tires don't get cheese grated every time I flex. Don't move the axle foreward any more than you have it unless you use a flat pitman arm to clear the u-bolt pad, I tried 1" and 1.5" with my zero rate and both settings caused the pad to contact my DLE. :doah:

farm2.jpg
 
Tub it. We're gonna do it to my buddy's Toyota. Either that or use Dodge 52's to move your axle 2" forward. Shouldn't be hard.
 
Grab some body sheet metal (or thinner plate depending on what you have around) and lay it over the inner fender. Start about 12-15" up on the fender and continue to the heater box/brake booster. This won't stop it from rubbing but will stop it from grabbing. I don't even notice my 40's rub anymore.

BTW my axle is 1" foward on 4" springs.
 
mikey_d05 said:
Tub it. We're gonna do it to my buddy's Toyota. Either that or use Dodge 52's to move your axle 2" forward. Shouldn't be hard.
Click to expand...

so dodge springs move it 2" farther forward than chevy 52's?
 
Yep, but they're super soft so a full bodied rig would probably need leaves added to the pack.
 
az-k5 said:
Grab some body sheet metal (or thinner plate depending on what you have around) and lay it over the inner fender. Start about 12-15" up on the fender and continue to the heater box/brake booster. This won't stop it from rubbing but will stop it from grabbing. I don't even notice my 40's rub anymore.

BTW my axle is 1" foward on 4" springs.
Click to expand...

Matt how would you recommend attaching the sheet metal? With rivets or screws? I would imagine rivets would be the best. This sounds pretty easy. I will try what Rob said, if it still is a problem I will attach the sheet metal.

Thanks
 
alot of people spot weld it in place. but if you cant or dont want to weld it i say rivets are a better choice. sheetmetal screws are going to either poking out at the tire or up at your feet
 
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