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How to link the rear of a K5
- Thread starter Hogback Fabrication
- Start date
As it sits now, I don't have a sway bar. It will be in the works eventually but right now my front has so little uptravel that it keeps the rig stable on sidehills (which has its own downfalls and isn't the reason I run little uptravel, a sway bar would be much better).
The TJ coils are ok. I have them tied down top and bottom because I have too much suspension travel to allow them to float freely (they would fall out).
The problem is that the springs are simply too short. They get over-stretched on the droop side and it exceeds the yield strength of the spring and they have lost some ride height.
Most coils have a clamp at the bottom of the spring and use a piece of tube to center the spring at the top which allows the spring to slide freely up and down the tube. When you start talking about more travel and/or lower ride heights you need to either capture the springs top and bottom and eliminate the centering tube or go to a longer coil setup (this is why coilover shocks are so long).
I'm thinking my best solution (before finding money to buy coilovers) is to buy a set of these 6" TJ coils. Basically, TJ lift springs get most of their extra height from using a taller coil with more wraps, the spring rate is pretty similar (usually a little higher but not much). These coils are probably 5" or so taller than the stock ones (which are 17" tall or so unloaded IIRC), the extra height means that the spring get stretched less and will hopefully survive much better.
Stock TJ coils are either 120 lbs./in. or 160 lbs./in. based on motor and options, so they're super soft (K5 lift spring generally range from 350-700 lbs./in.). They are probably a little too soft (I'm running the 160 lb/in ones), even for the rear of my light-ish buggy (a little over 4000 lbs.). They would be WAY too soft for a full bodied K5.
If you're looking for cheap coil springs for the rear of a K5, I would bet that the front coils from a first gen Bronco would work well.
The thing is that you'll probably run into the same problem as me: you will have too much suspension travel to allow a stock coil to only be captured on one end and you'll have to buy taller lift springs from some OEM application (which are still REALLY cheap compared to coilovers). You can usually find used lift springs fairly cheap.
Long reply to a short question
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Midwestern4x4Parts
1/2 ton status
Nice to see links on here. Once , and awhile. 
Since its been bumped back up, I have to say that this has been one of my most worthwhile mods.
No more hop, the links just plant the power down.
Here's a few pics of the big hot tub on Hell's Revenge from Blazer Bash this year, no pics of the steep part and no video
(I was leading the group):
I made it with relatively little effort, I never would have made it with my previous leaves. To show what this obstacle is really like, here are some other vehicles on the same:
No more hop, the links just plant the power down.
Here's a few pics of the big hot tub on Hell's Revenge from Blazer Bash this year, no pics of the steep part and no video
(I was leading the group):
I made it with relatively little effort, I never would have made it with my previous leaves. To show what this obstacle is really like, here are some other vehicles on the same:
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I'd love to, but its probably not in the cards for a while. I just graduated from college, I'm moving and I have a ton on my plate at the moment.
There are quite a few Northern CO guys over on 4x4mecca (a lot more freedom for a free membership over there), we go wheeling together at least a few times a year. I try to participate when someone is making a major mod, if you want to link your truck it might pull quite a few people together. I'd certainly be down to help but I don't currently have the shop space; provide the space and the beer and I'm sure we can do it
Of course, I'm available here on a pretty regular basis and you have my email
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Well fellas, if you have any questions about my little writeup let me know. I thought about drawing some pictures in paint to make thing more clear, maybe those would help.
Plus I didn't have anyone edit this writeup, I just wrote it and posted it. I know I'm not the most articulate person and us engineers aren't teh mostest best writeres.
So, if you have any kind of questions, I'll probably be around to answer them as best I can. This isn't the 1st link suspension I've ever dealt with, just the first one I did by myself.
Cheers
Plus I didn't have anyone edit this writeup, I just wrote it and posted it. I know I'm not the most articulate person and us engineers aren't teh mostest best writeres.
So, if you have any kind of questions, I'll probably be around to answer them as best I can. This isn't the 1st link suspension I've ever dealt with, just the first one I did by myself.
Cheers
four_by_ken
1/2 ton status
So, what is different on your rig the would cause a full bodied to have problems? Doesnt look like much.
Is your gas tank in the stock location?
Nice work by the way.
Is your gas tank in the stock location?
Nice work by the way.
What do you mean?
No, its in the bed area. There's no way my truss would clear the tank under the bed.
four_by_ken
1/2 ton status
What is different in the rear of your truck compared to a full body 'stock' rig.
The gas tank is a good example. In order to get a 4 link like yours to work on a full bodied stock rig, you would need to move the gas tank. Any other things like that?
Things that wouldnt quite work on a 'stock' rig.
I am thinking just he gas tank? Maybe some cross member work, but that may come with mounting the links on a stock truck anyways.
I am thinking of going to mogs and when I do, its either reuse the leafs and go with traction bars, or just go full blown 4 link.
If you move the gas tank you'd have plenty of clearance back there. I didn't build any crossmembers or anything, its just K5 stuff.
The 4 link calculations are different on portal axles, there are threads on pirate discussing it.
The 4 link calculations are different on portal axles, there are threads on pirate discussing it.
wayne
3/4 ton status
Chris, that is some good info and a good write up. I was planning to link the rear of mine over this winter but my broken leg (3 months off work with no income) put that on hold for now. I like the way you did your links without making them adjustable. That saves quite a bit of money and less failure points. I got quite a few ideas from your set up that will help when I do mine. Once I get back to work I am going to start getting parts to do mine.
not taking away from chris's thread but here are somepics of my setup just 4 people to get idea..i have not tested it yet so i have no idea what its like
This is full droop,were goin to have to put some limiting strap's on before it kills the air shocks.
Driveshaft at full droop.
This is full droop,were goin to have to put some limiting strap's on before it kills the air shocks.
Driveshaft at full droop.
well see how it does and how much i like it..it may go back to get the front done later if i like the rear enoughLooking good
you know whats funny my truck could almost pass for a trazer now
73redblaze
1/2 ton status
wow lookin good... all you guys
four_by_ken
1/2 ton status
So, is the front still going to happen?
