CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

How to link the rear of a K5

Anyone thinking about being an idiot like I was don't do it

Download open office

The calc seems complicated at first glance but it is really simple after about 5 minutes of toying with it.

By the way, how are both setups working today? (howdiy and 38377k5) is there anything that you would do differently a second time around?
 
By the way, how are both setups working today? (howdiy and 38377k5) is there anything that you would do differently a second time around?

I love mine, only thing I want to change is going to different springs, the TJ coils just aren't long enough and they're a little too soft.
 
By the way, how are both setups working today? (howdiy and 38377k5) is there anything that you would do differently a second time around?

I like it, I'm not 100% happy with my upper coil mounts, thats about it

I haven't been able to wheel on any rocks though yet.
 
dont know if i posted pics or not but there are some in my build.im still liking my air shocks and if i ever do the front im going with 2.5s up there
 
quote "As long as the combined angles of the 4 links are at least 40 degrees you won’t need a track bar (panhard bar) to locate the axle side to side."

Is this statement true?
because not having a track bar would sure make the thng a lot easier to build.
 
quote "As long as the combined angles of the 4 links are at least 40 degrees you won’t need a track bar (panhard bar) to locate the axle side to side."

Is this statement true?
because not having a track bar would sure make the thng a lot easier to build.

Everything I've ever read/seen supports this, I certainly don't need a track bar.
 
i'm seriously considering this for my Crew cab rear, I downloaded the Calculator from Pirate. Do I just add my measurements to it? and what exactly am I looking for as an end result?
I read the whole thread concerning your build and didn't quite wrap my head around the calculator.
 
i'm seriously considering this for my Crew cab rear, I downloaded the Calculator from Pirate. Do I just add my measurements to it? and what exactly am I looking for as an end result?
I read the whole thread concerning your build and didn't quite wrap my head around the calculator.

Street truck/tow rig or trail rig?
 
Trail rig, I just deal with it on the street.

From the first page, my guidelines for numbers:

From talking to many, many people with linked rear suspensions it seems that anti-squat percentages between 50% and 100% work well in the rocks. Too little anti-squat and your rig will want to flip over backwards, too much and the axle will try to drive under the truck and it will hop.

Keep your roll axis angle as close to 0 as possible. If your design necessitates a few degrees of roll axis angle it will probably be ok. Having lots of roll steer sucks.

The COG height and roll axis height should be close. They don’t have to be exactly the same but if they’re off by a lot you may be in trouble.

Some will recommend that your uppers be ~70% as long as the lowers, this helps keep the antisquat numbers consistent through bump and droop travel.

Equal length upper and lower links will keep the pinion angle consistent throughout the suspension travel.

You don’t need to triangulate the links like I did, many people run links that are parallel with the frame (straight) and only triangulate the uppers. Some people converge the upper links at the frame side and keep them wide at the axle.
 
That helps, I must have missed that, I keep going back up looking for something to make some sense. I think I got it now, thanks!

I just found what I was looking for in post #2 all the How to's and where for's.
 
That helps, I must have missed that, I keep going back up looking for something to make some sense. I think I got it now, thanks!

I just found what I was looking for in post #2 all the How to's and where for's.

Yeah, I'm not a great writer and I'm sure it's easy to get lost in all that :haha:
 
Next question,
When designing these 4 link set ups, do ballistic joints need to be used on all link ends, or can bushings be used on the frame ends?
 
Next question,
When designing these 4 link set ups, do ballistic joints need to be used on all link ends, or can bushings be used on the frame ends?

Well, you don't need to use Ballistic joints per se, you can use heims or whatever.

You can use bushings on one end but they won't necessarily last long on a big truck and you'll lose a bunch of flex.
 
Chris any updates on this. Just re reading it again for my plans this spring.

How are the Ballistic Joints holding up?

Any major changes you would do or have done?
 
Chris any updates on this. Just re reading it again for my plans this spring.

How are the Ballistic Joints holding up?

Any major changes you would do or have done?

The 4 link itself has been flawless, I haven't changed a thing in that regard. The joints are still tight and haven't been messed with since installed, the back of my rig is super light but still, it's been on 42's since like 07.

The coils and shocks sucked from day 1, I don't miss them at all (went to coilovers a few years ago). But she's still kicking!



If you think you might need links, you do. And you won't regret it :deal:

And for what it's worth we should finally get our rear 4 link setup on our website here soon :whistle:
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom