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How to properly install wheel studs??

Mine on my front hubs hammered in easy, relatively speaking. A few good whacks with the BFH on a ball peen, no sweat. Once upon a time this same subject came up on this board and someone posted a link with a good write up on why NOT to draw them in with a lug nut. A search should turn it up.
 
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I'm pretty sure you'd need at least 150ftlbs to get a stud seated

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I dont believe this is true. Think about this: When you hammer a stud in, lets say you dont get it quite seated. It will seat when you put the wheel on and tighten the lug nuts. Now, do you think the torque wrench will click before you seat the stud all the way? Of course not, because until the stud seats fully, the friction between the knurls and hub will not be enough to cause the stud to stretch. You guys can do it your way, and I will do it mine, just dont tell the original poster that my way will ruin a stud when me and others have proven time after time it does not. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

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I'll try it on a spare shaft tomorrow. I only tried it once (humoring a friend) and it took all I could do with a standard length 1/2" ratchet to get the stud all the way in. Maybe the stud was a bit big for the hole, I don't know. I do know that the other 11 I put in with a hammer only took one blow at most two apiece.

Most of the time I have access to a press, which no matter what anyone says, is the CORRECT way to do it.

Since you aren't pounding on the threads and it only takes one or two hits I see no reason not to use a hammer.
 
Most auto parts stores will have them, especially Napa stores for some reason. Once in a while places like Discount Tire will have them.

Expect to pay about $2.50/each.
 
Have to change them all the time when people get new axles. For the rear, its easier to put them in with a baby sledge. Easier with a press for the front because of the hubs and rotors. I also wouldnt use the pull it through with washers method.
 
When I swapped studs on a Bronco axle I used to own, I stripped two studs using the lug nut method. In one case I also stripped the lug nut since I was using one of those cheap chrome ones. Back then I finally took them to a shop and had them pressed in. Since then I've stuck with the BFH method and had no problems.
 
Stack the metal so it is only supported by the outside edge. That only applies if you don't have a really big press where the bearing part of the hub can't drop between the channels.

Once you've used a press you will wonder how you ever managed without one. Kind of like once you have a drill press you don't know how you ever drilled all those holes without one. Up until last Fall I'd never changed a universal joint without a press. Beating on shafts to change universals seems even more barbaric now.

I usually use a crappy $100 press... I couldn't even imagine how nice it'd be to use a square press.
 
I hear that. My next purchase will be a press. I'll stack it right next to my drill press that you are right, I couldn't live without.
 
BFH and a brass punch. I have used a 14ff axle to get them out at the PNP /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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Well if you cant line up the knurls before putting the stud in then thats your fault, not the fault of the method you use. Oh, and out of the hundreds I have installed this way, I have never broke one, the only thing I can see happening is galling of the threads. It takes a LOT to break a brand new stud no matter what size stud it is.

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Its the wrong way. YUou know the cars sitting on the side of the road with sheared studs....Thats what happens.

I have tested it and you cannot seat a NEW wheel stud without applying close to 200lb ft of torque. If you did manage to get it seated then the knurls are wallowing out and your running the risk of them stripping that the stud spinning.

Driving them on with a hamer is problematic as well on the front rotors. The disc will act as a hammer and when you seat one the harmonics will cause it to loosen the others.

PRESS is the correct method PERIOD. If your going to do it wrong do it with the hammer and keep checking them very often till they stop getting loose.
 
In three years I never had a comeback. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Guess I got lucky. Besides, I was only mentioning that method for people that do not have a press (which is probably the majority on this site). I already said that a press is the best method, but not the only method. I am done arguing.
 
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Stack the metal so it is only supported by the outside edge. That only applies if you don't have a really big press where the bearing part of the hub can't drop between the channels.

Once you've used a press you will wonder how you ever managed without one. Kind of like once you have a drill press you don't know how you ever drilled all those holes without one. Up until last Fall I'd never changed a universal joint without a press. Beating on shafts to change universals seems even more barbaric now.

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I have tried that actually, and the hub always wants to walk around on me, instead of concentrating the force downward. I always end up getting pissed and getting out the air hammer.

I do belive that using a press is the ideal method, but I have seated a number of wheel studs with an air hammer, and I have found it works just fine.
 
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