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How to read aldl log?

michael0584

michael0584

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I've been trying to track down the cause of my occasional egr code 32 and o2 code 13. I've replaced the egr, o2 and checked the wiring and still get the ses light. i made an aldl cable and logged a drive, the ses light did come on but not sure what I need to look for in the log. This is on a 87 Jimmy with a 5.7.


Thanks
 
Can't view where I am now, IIRC winALDL has a "raw data" check box. You'll want to make sure it's set to not be "raw" data.

This is one reason I like Tunerpro RT, as at least the "dash" portion of it (haven't played with the logs yet) is plain english and you can understand what you are looking at.
 
13. Oxygen sensor signal stays lean during warm engine cruise, your O2 sensor could be unplugged or faulty wire.

32. Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch or faulty EGR valve

Your BLM does not look right. It goes from 128 (good) to 152 (lean) seamingly at will?

IAC counts of 2 and sometimes 0 at idle suggests a vacuum leak...

Your O2 sensor doesn't seem to change as much as it should?

My TPS at idle runs 3.6 and yours is -0.3 so I'm not even sure your recorded data is acurate. Make sure you have the proper ECM selected and no RAW data or flags next time.

Start here for your codes and there is more information in the injection section.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240425
 
I feel there is some connection with the egr and code 13. I have replaced the o2 sensor and the egr. The egr is one of the ones from autozone with the washers. Depending on what washer I have in it seems to effect when it throws the code 13. One size may take 1 mile then another washer may take 30 miles. I'm still swapping them around trying to find one that works best, but have just about given up and resorted to ordering one from GM. I have also checked the o2 wire all the way back to the computer and it is okay.
 
Your still hitting IAC reading of 0 on idle meaning it is not controlling your idle. Could be a vauum leak that would also cause a code 13 Lean O2.

Your O2 sensor reading is virtually the same the entire data so that may be lean or you are in open loop. This along with a perfect 128 in the BLM colum makes me think so.

There are other threads in the injection section on Code 32 and non GM EGR valves. Not sure if this is causing your lean condition. You may see the open loop flag on while driving in WinALDL

Something is not right?
 
Got the old EGR? I wouldn't be surprised if you've got the wrong piece. EGR is another "GM only" part IMO.

FYI, pulling the ECM fuse for 10 seconds does the same thing as pulling the battery cable, but ensures you don't mess with a good battery connection. Do it yourself, you'll see that the code is reset about as quickly as it takes to pull and reinsert the fuse.
 
The old egr is the same kind as this one its a universal type with the orifice washer. I have no idea when it started throwing codes. I noticed the egr was bad before I realized the ses light was not working. Once I fixed the ses light I found code 32 and 13. I've only owned this Jimmy for about 3.5 months. I will try pulling the fuse next time, thanks for the tip, I'm getting tired of reprogramming my presets on my radio. I've got the gm egr from the dealer on its way. Hopefully I can take this other piece of junk back to autozone. The dealer lists different part numbers for federal and california emission vehicles and shows the california egr discontinued. Mine is originally from cal and has cal emissions, I hope the fed egr will work. I have no idea which egr mine originally had but if nothing else I will get a chip from tbichips and go to a fed emissions tune.
 
I installed the gm egr valve today. part number 17087196. I drove about 20 miles and got code 32 egr fault. So I'm stumped I guess this is good news cause I haven't gotten a code 13. But I guess this is not the correct egr. If anyone has an 87 k5 with california emissions and can get me the part number of their egr, that would help out alot.
 
It may be the little vacuum switch connected to the EGR valve or vacuum lines associated with it. I beleive the ECM checks it through the Switch/sensor/valve...
 
I've swapped egr solenoid for another one and they seem to work the same. I'll try that with this egr valve.
 
Make sure the vacuum line to EGR valve is working correctly. I am not sure if it goes to direct vacuum or ported vacuum...
 
Seems as though your on the right track but also make sure the civerter is not bad and leaking needed vacuum for EGR valve.
 
Its weird cause it seems to always have the solenoid open any time above idle. I guess that's normal, There seems to be enough spring tension on the egr that it won't open up till cruising conditions. I guess that's where the back pressure comes in.
 
When I race the motor up I can see the egr open just a tiny bit. I think I just have the wrong egr, not sure how to find out which one it calls for. Supposedly the one I bought is for a federal emissions 87. The california emissions 87 is discontinued with no part number available. I'm thinking about getting a hot chip from tbichips, cause all his chips are federal emissions. Maybe this would fix it.
 
I'm gonna check my ecm and prom number, I looked at it before but didn't check the number. It had a tag that says remanufactured. I wonder if it could have the wrong ecm. I've studied the wiring diagrams and it looks like some have a evrv engine vacuum regulator valve instead of the egr solenoid. I'm wondering if this ecm may be looking for the evrv.
 
Remanufactured ECMs do not come with a chip. You must reinstall your old one... I just burned a chip to remove EGR and my light never comes on! Of couse the EGR is also disconected...
 
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