How to replace Harmonic Balancer on Stock 350

[76zimmer]

I second using the installer w the ball bearing, its what my engine guy uses, so thats what I bought, great piece.



Be aware just because its ACDELCO, doesn't mean its a good piece, they have a lot of stuff made off shore now too.
As previously mentioned, you need to measure the diameter of your existing balancer, and assuming its not a 400, it will be internally balanced. Take a-pic and post it up. It will not come with the square key for the crank, so you may want to get one if yours is buggered up. Just be careful not to knock it in through the timing chain cover. Before taking off your old balancer, turn the engine to TDC, then when you put the new one on, you can compare timing marks.

 

[ryoken]

I second using the installer w the ball bearing, its what my engine guy uses, so thats what I bought, great piece.

View attachment 332737

Be aware just because its ACDELCO, doesn't mean its a good piece, they have a lot of stuff made off shore now too.
As previously mentioned, you need to measure the diameter of your existing balancer, and assuming its not a 400, it will be internally balanced. Take a-pic and post it up. It will not come with the square key for the crank, so you may want to get one if yours is buggered up. Just be careful not to knock it in through the timing chain cover. Before taking off your old balancer, turn the engine to TDC, then when you put the new one on, you can compare timing marks.

what ALWAYS fails for us is the adapter piece that goes on the end.. we literally have a 1/2 dozen of those things sitting around with the adapters all busted.... usually they are made of cast cr@p... yet to see a quality machined piece.. i just transferred the bearing assemblies over to asst grade 8 studs for various motors.....

 

[76zimmer]

Thats a great idea too. I've only used mine 4-5 times, so not an issue....yet!

 

[diesel4me]

I'm old enough to have replaced several balancers on SBC that had no crankshaft bolt,not even a hole,and you had to pound them on with a block of wood and a 5 lb hammer..

I have put many on later engines that way without the install tool too,but that is the "correct" way to do it,you just need to be gentle with the hammer....also had to drill & re-tap the crank hole to 1/2" on a few because the previous "mechanic" stripped it out using the bolt and an impact gun to put the balancer back on..

I never had to mess with the woodruff key in the crank,they stayed put and I just put the balancer back on after cleaning off the crank snout good..

Old Motor's manuals used to say it was OK to lightly hone the ID of the balancer with a brake cylinder hone,if it was too tight a fit,but I only had to clean one rusty one up that way--I wouldn't do that on an old 283,307 or 327 without the crank hole & bolt,I have seen a few fly off at high RPMs and cause major damage..

One on a '67 Corvette a guy I know had with a 327 flew off as he was showing off leaving a bar room,doing a burnout and driving away at 90 mph..it took out the radiator,hood,and bashed in many other things on its way out..he ran it over too!..the crowd was laughing so hard they almost peed themselves and were yelling "That was great !--do it again!"..

 

[ryoken]

hammer smash is a great way to wreck the thrust bearing... yeah, i got away with it as a teen a few times too, but not worth the risk..

 

[diesel4me]

It is the main bearing's thrust collar that could be damaged--using a wood block absorbs most of the shock and prevents it from being smooshed,as long as you dont whale on it too hard with the hammer..

I use the installer if the crank has the threaded hole,in a pinch I have used threaded rod,with several greased washers and a nut to pull the balancer back on,but I did risk having the threaded rod break off in the crank or strip the threads,I made sure it was bottomed out ,but not tightened so if it did break I had a good chance of removing it..was tough finding 7/16" fine threaded rod too..on one engine I had to drill and tap to 1/2" I used a grade 8 stud and a nut and left it in the crank with locktite--,that was all I could find locally ..

The installers with the thrust bearing works best..but the threaded part is often made of weak crap..

 

[ryoken]

It is the main bearing's thrust collar that could be damaged--using a wood block absorbs most of the shock and prevents it from being smooshed,as long as you dont whale on it too hard with the hammer..

I use the installer if the crank has the threaded hole,in a pinch I have used threaded rod,with several greased washers and a nut to pull the balancer back on,but I did risk having the threaded rod break off in the crank or strip the threads,I made sure it was bottomed out ,but not tightened so if it did break I had a good chance of removing it..was tough finding 7/16" fine threaded rod too..on one engine I had to drill and tap to 1/2" I used a grade 8 stud and a nut and left it in the crank with locktite--,that was all I could find locally ..

The installers with the thrust bearing works best..but the threaded part is often made of weak crap..

sorry for not saying block of wood, figured it was a given... I've only installed literally 100+.....

 

[wasted wages]

I wonder if I could get something from ARP that might work for the stud prone to snapping off for my installer....

Or something like a wheel stud.....
Moroso makes some long studs for drag racers..

 

[ryoken]

I wonder if I could get something from ARP that might work for the stud prone to snapping off for my installer....

Or something like a wheel stud.....
Moroso makes some long studs for drag racers..

i just started ordering a 1' section of whatever i needed in grade 8 from McMaster Bible.... usually it's under $15 shipped to me.. tho they ARE joysey too...

 

[mrk5]

@Chief Brody, this is the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648...1584209347&sprefix=powerbilt+h,aps,202&sr=8-1

I rented it from Advance Auto Parts to pull the original balancer and install a new one on my 454 before I swapped it into the truck. Then I rented the same tool (I mean exact same because I got it at the same store) to remove and re-install the balancer in the truck becuase I had a seal failure. After that I asked for one for my birthday and ended up with someone getting it for me.

The rental is free but you do have to "buy" it and then you get the money back when you return it. The parts store wanted about $100 for the same tool I linked above.

I'm going to be using it soon to R&R the balancer in my 73 because the timing chain needs replaced.

I purchased an ARP balancer bolt and it come with special thread lubricant. I used a little of the lube on the threads of the balancer puller/remover to help the thread run smoothly.

 

[Chief Brody]

OK On closer inspection while measuring, and it is an 8" damper, I can't tell if the damper is wobbling or if it is the pulley. Also one of the belts seems to be coming apart. Photo and video coming

 

[Chief Brody]

 

[Chief Brody]

 

[Chief Brody]

 

[Chief Brody]

Notice no squeak since I sprayed the belts, but I didn't run it long enough to get it warm

 

[rampage]

It looks like your fan has a little wobble to it but hard to tell when the camera isn’t held still for at least a few seconds.

 

[Chief Brody]

It looks like your fan has a little wobble to it but hard to tell when the camera isn’t held still for at least a few seconds.

I kind of think it does a little. But that was a new water pump...fan blade could be warped?

 

[Chief Brody]

When I put the severe duty clutch on, the fan was no longer completely covered by the shroud...so you can see it spinning from the side now.

 

[rampage]

I kind of think it does a little. But that was a new water pump...fan blade could be warped?

Honestly I couldn’t tell you if that’s normal since I’ve never really looked for it before.

 

[rampage]

And now that you mention it, your fan won’t be operating efficiently without the shroud completely covering it. Air is drawn from the path of least resistance which would be the sides. So don’t ask later why you’re having overheating problems.