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How to solder 2 wires for relays?

It's a pain to reuse the terminals - you have to pry the crimps open without destroying anything. Typically when you pull them, you replace them with new terminals. The factory crimps are good, but replacement terminal crimps are only as good as the crimper.

Most of these connectors are the same, in that there is a little tab that holds the terminals in. After you remove the retainer from the back (Terminal Position Assurance), you push a pick into a slot in the face of the connector, releasing the terminal. If you do it right, they snap back in. For re-arranging terminals in the connector, this is 100x better than cutting wires.
 
how many wires do you have going out your relays? with that style some have an extra wire.

also see here...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5593pt

on the your relay what is the number and circuit design


symbols-pleasant-flasher-unit-wiringram-prong-led-circuit-lamp-t8-electronic-ballast-fluorescent-970x979.jpg


here is a good design diagram

http://indexxit.com/wp-content/uplo...hing-bulb-dc-blinking-light-relay-970x979.jpg

pleasant-flasher-unit-wiring-diagram-prong-led-circuit-design-how-wire-auxiliary-lights-12v-lamp-flashing-bulb-dc-blinking-light-relay-970x979.jpg



pleasant-flasher-unit-wiring-diagram-prong-led-circuit-design-how-wire-auxiliary-lights-12v-lamp-flashing-bulb-dc-blinking-light-relay-970x979.jpg


http://indexxit.com/12v-flasher-cir...uit-design-d-how-to-wire-auxiliary-lights-dc/
 
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Thx!... yes they do come apart so I will be able to do that. SWEET!!! ill have to buy the ends.

Now I have 10 that I can work on and some I cant. They are like molded into the back without the backing like all mine in these pics show. sweet!!!!!!!!!

and yeah I know the jist of wiring 4 pin relays.

I have no clue on what purpose a 5 pin does. I do get that with relay OFF the pin 87a is hot but what would that be for?
I was hoping I could use 87 for left pump and 87a for right pump. In theory that would work but youd have to kill power to the relay when key is off needing another switch so makes no sense to do that. just use 2 relays and 1 switch.. On/Off/On
 
I haven't seen the one on the left before. Interesting.

Ive got about 4 of them so i wont use them. That is why i started this thread. Trying to figure out the correct way to splice them. Ill just not use them and only get ones i can take apart.

I have this nack for buying things and never getting around to using them. Taking that relay apart was awesome.. i bought all the stuff years ago to do 2 wire waterproof connectors and never used them. Guess what... i have the correct connectors already!!!! 20a and 30a still use same connector. Took them apart and looked!!!!!

20180123_213700.jpg
 
Whomever is cheapest on eBay when I am getting low. Have bought from 4 vendors. It's all been the same stuff.
 
Really. When u can give me a link? Wanna compare as i buy from waytek. Bought from them years ago but i think their prices went up a lot.

What am i searching for?
 
Yeah you see this one on left cant be pulled apart...

View attachment 255673
It probably can be. It might not have a secondary retainer, or it might slide through the center of the connector body. Pull the connector off and look at the other side. Think about how they assemble it in the factory. Almost always a terminal crimped on a wire that gets inserted to a cavity with a little spring lock to hold it in. These are called "push to seat". In this case, all the wires feed through the same seal, so you probably need to extract the whole seal from the body before pulling terminals. There are also "pull to seat" designs where the wire goes through the connector body before the terminal is attached and this is sometimes used with the single seal style. Whenever I got new Delphi Packard designs for my products, I specified "push to seat" explicitly, since pull to seat requires cutting for almost any rework.

Having said that, there's nothing wrong with a splice in a harness if it's done right. I would take a fully soldered and sealed splice any day over a new terminal crimp done with a generic crimp tool. If you don't have the manufacturer specified tool or something similar (like force or dimensional specifications), just put some solder to the core crimps after crimping. Try not to let if flow down towards the insulation crimp. If the solder flows too far, the end of the wire is brittle.
 
found the ebay.. lets see...
Delphi part numbers
60 x 15324980 @ .0639 = $3.834
30 x 12124582 @ .1366 = $4.098
30 x 12124580 @ .1361 = $4.083
10 x 12129615 @ .3243 = $3.243
10 x 12110293 @ .5467 = $5.467
________________________________
Waytek Total $20.725 BUT MINIMALS TO BUY... like 100vs60, 50vs30 so total minimal is $32 + shipping
Ebay Total $25.99 free shipping..

Ok ebay is way better in a minimal price but overall you have minimals to buy at waytek BUT you end up with more...
number up top is if you didn't have minimals waytek is cheaper...

I'm bored so thought id do this.. hah
 
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