CK5
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How tough is a D60?

That's not how my E-locker works. It's locked as long as power is on.
exactly ! if the magnet takes 12 volt to pull it over and stay there how will it stay there with no power ?

i have 2 brand new e-lockers for 60 front cause i liked the way they work . i read up on them a lot before i got them .. . .now to just install them :doah:
 
You COULD wire a latching relay to apply power to the magnet every ignition cycle and require a switch input to disengage. I just don't know why you WOULD. Need some pictures to believe there's really some such setup. In general, previous owners have a poor track record for accuracy.
 
1 project has a pair of ARB's 60/14ff

then i scored 2 new eatons for 2 of my other trucks with 60's but have yet to install .

my jeep friend did the eaton e-locker swap on his rubicon jeep thats heavy modded and he likes them there holding up just fine with 5.13 gears / 6 speed / built 4.0 / 36" swampers on re-centered h1 rims .
 
I've got a good connection right now, and I'm waiting on someone to show up. So I'm bored and figured I would jump in and stir the pot a little.
First of all, let me state I have never seen any kind of diff lock that works this way, but they may be out there.
However, there are lots of applications in the mechanical world where the lock/unlock system requires power both ways.
There is one in particular that is common, I have worked on them several times, and for the life of me I can't remember what it is. But, those systems usually work one of two ways.
Either two wires, one for locking and the other for unlocking, or you reverse the polarity on a single wire.
There is a type of latching relay that does that. It has a permanent magnet on the plate that moves to switch the contacts. The magnet is not strong enough to pull the relay in by its self. But, when you charge the coil with power such that it causes it to be the opposite polarity as the magnet, it pulls it in.
Once its touching, its plenty strong enough to hold the relay closed. Then it will stay closed even if the power fails.
To release it, you apply reverse polarity, and the like poles repel each other and the relay opens and stays open without need for power.
If the diff lock uses a toothed type lock, I could see where either two coils might be used to slide a locking sleeve, one to lock and one to unlock.
If it was a clutch type lock, you could go either way. Most of them use power to engage the lock, like an ac compressor, and springs to unlock it.
But, consider an air brake on big trucks.
The spring locks the brakes, you apply power (air) to unlock it. Thus it fails in the lock position.
A lot of folks like that brand of hub that tends to fail in the lock position, maybe someone figured a locker needed to fail in the locked position if it lost power.

Odds are, its a standard type E-locker that the OP wanted to be sure was locked all the time, so they wired it that way, but you never know.....

Hmm, friend has not shown up yet, connection is still good, I'll browse around the site and see what else I can get into.....
 
Once again, I've been forced to research and learn. After looking up how these Eaton/Harrop lockers work, I understand your confusion. I have it, too. The only experience I've got is with the Toyota E-locker, which will remain locked, even if the wires are torn out. But the Eaton/Harrop locker does not appear to work the same way. It looks like without power, the springs will push the pins back through, causing the diff to unlock. So, this afternoon, I'll be out with my multimeter and find out exactly what is going on with the front diff. I know I had a hell of a time getting my hubs to unlock after our first day on the trail, the only way I was able to do it was to back up a bit, which now make sense...if the diff was locked, there would be pressure on those hubs all the time until I backed up and the ring rotated backwards unlocking the diff for just a moment and taking the pressure off the hubs. So, it would seem the diff remained locked while the truck was off, contrary to what would be normal. Or maybe that pressure prevented the springs from being able to push the pins back through when the power was cut off, either way, both you and Blue85 make a valid point regarding power to the magnet in order to remain locked. Let me go out and figure out exactly what's going on with the wiring and how this is set up, which I should know anyway. Stay tuned...
 
OK, so as usual, the deeper I get into this, the more confused I get. Let's start with the biggest issue, one I don't know how it's happening. The passenger's side hub is locking itself. I went out to snoop around the diff, and the passenger's hub was 3/4 of the way to being locked. No one else to blame it on, so tried to turn it to free, and it wouldn't go. Not until drove it forward and back a couple of inches would it turn. I verify they're both in free, drive the 3 miles or so to the post office, come home, and the passenger's side is right back to 3/4 locked. Looks like I'll be owing my spotter an apology sometime soon. How is that happening and what do I do to fix that? These are Yukon Hardcore hubs. Haven't been inside them yet, but the outer bolts are all torqued to spec. They turn really easily when they turn, it doesn't feel like there's a lot of grease packed in there. When they won't unlock, it feels like metal on metal and the whole weight of the truck is on there...they don't even act like they're going to move.

OK, on to the front locker. Here's what I know: There is a on/off switch on the dash. It's in the off position normally. With the ignition on, I flip the switch to "on", and I hear a noise from the front diff, either engaging or disengaging. I turn the ignition off, thinking I will hear a noise again, but no, nothing from the front diff, so it's staying in whatever state it's in. If I flip the switch with the ignition off, the second I turn it on, the diff will change status. I turn the ignition off, no change, it stays where it was at. Also, the on line instructions appear to have a plug going to the diff with two wires. This one has a large black plastic box with four wires outside the diff. I can't even find where the wires enter the diff, I think it's behind the box. Box has a circle with a lighting bolt in it embossed on the cover. There is some kind of wazoo plug that attaches the wires to the box, I couldn't figure it out in the dark, and rather than break some little plastic tab that will cost me $40 to replace, I gave up and went back to working on the liftgate for the back. I'll post up some photos in the morning of what I've got going up there, and hopefully will be able to tell you when those wires are hot and where they go...as of now I can just tell you they go up behind the dash somewhere. I'll also find some dirt or gravel somewhere and tell you if the switch is locking or unlocking the diff.
 
So, just in case anyone knows what's going on here, please save me the headache of trying to figure this out. This doesn't look like the typical E-locker install to me. I will see if I can get ahold of the PO and get some clarification, but I'm not counting on it. As I said, somehow, it will hold whatever state it's in, even without power being applied.

IMG_0614.JPG IMG_0615.JPG IMG_0618.JPG IMG_0619.JPG
 
Wow, this thing has all the goodies, so having some trick custom setup is certainly a possibility. An OX locker works off a cable and their electric conversion kit just connects that cable to a remote actuator. That cut/modified diff cover looks more like a custom conversion to direct couple an actuator to an OX, which is kind of a cool idea. (An Eaton E-locker doesn't require any of that stuff.) If that actuator is a worm gear reduction motor, it will truly hold the last selected mode until power is applied again and another mode selected.
 
is it possible you have an Ox Locker that has been converted to electric?

https://ox-usa.com/43-electric-shifter-parts
That sure looks like the box and the connector on there. I was told it was an Eaton/Harrop E-locker. But that whole cover has been modified substantially. I hate to take things apart when they work, but I may have to in this case. I'm going to wait and see if the PO contacts me in the next day or two and can explain further. It certainly appears the switch being in the "on" or powered position unlocks the diff. Switching it on was the only way I could get the hubs unlocked this afternoon. Also, The front axle binds and pops on sharp turns when the switch is off, when it's on it turns much easier and with less noise. I wish I could see the other side of that box, that's where that lightning emblem is embossed...that would tell me for sure at least what that box is. As I said, there's no wires going into the diff that I see, but that protuberance from the box goes into the cover.
 
I have an Ox Locker in the front of my TJ that i converted to air,
 
First off: If any of you folks are Veterans, a heartfelt thank you is in order today. Thank you for making this country what it is and allowing us all to pursue happiness. Every one of you is a hero in my book.

On the the differential: It's a Detroit Electrac. The owner's manual was in the paperwork that was given to me with the truck. Don't know for sure, but it looks like just switching the wires would make it locked by default, and unlock with power. I'll find out tomorrow now that I have a diagram...the manual even explains how to unplug that connector from the actuator. Fourwheelerjeff was pretty close...I wouldn't be surprised if that actuator design was sold to the OX folks. It looks identical. ,

So, knowing that, with that diff locked and one hub locked, all that would be happening is that both axle shafts would be spinning, and the unlocked hub would keep that tire out of the equation, correct? Would the front driveshaft spin also, but not the T-case because the front lever is in N?

Now, any ideas on my self-locking hubs? What could possibly cause that?
 
Ah, I vaguely remember reading about the Electrac now. It's the one that acts like a Tru-Trac and then a spool. Was only offered for a short time. What throws you off is how their commercial design was a stock diff cover with a section hand-welded on. Since it is a helical cut limited slip when it's "off", that could have been confusing you about when it's on or off. I don't think it's related to your "self-locking" hub. It's too bad they couldn't package the e-locker electromagnet in there instead of the fork.

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Have you had the hubs off to look? Maybe it's just too much grease.
 
on the hub locking it's self in I had a warn premium hub that would do the same thing years ago. For some reason i seem to remember the 35 spline warns that had a set screw to keep them locked in but they were for a full float rear 9" 35 spline rear application.
 
Ah, I vaguely remember reading about the Electrac now. It's the one that acts like a Tru-Trac and then a spool. Was only offered for a short time. What throws you off is how their commercial design was a stock diff cover with a section hand-welded on. Since it is a helical cut limited slip when it's "off", that could have been confusing you about when it's on or off. I don't think it's related to your "self-locking" hub. It's too bad they couldn't package the e-locker electromagnet in there instead of the fork.

450_DET_ET-explodedView.gif

Have you had the hubs off to look? Maybe it's just too much grease.

Coming off this morning, and I'll take a look. It almost seems like maybe too little grease or maybe something not tightened down enough...they rotate very freely...you cam almost spin them other than the few cm before the locked position.

Ironic that you and Campfire both helped out on this. I am converting a top to a liftglass for this truck, and am using your thread as a guide. If I wanted to ask questions about that project, do I start a new topic in the body section or add on to your old thread ? This is my first time with the computer stuff...I usually just read other peoples stuff, and I'm not so up to date on blogging skills...I still have flip phone, and have no plans of getting anything else.
 
Add to their thread, maybe come up with things not previously mentioned.

This is just me spitballing...
I have a Spartan locker up front, always locked. I’ve only had my Yukon hub lock once on me. Dunno why. I was 20min front starting the Rubicon, maybe it got excited. It’s never happened again. Because it’s always locked, I also need to shimmy the front end around to loosen up the hubs before unlocking. Just the way it is. Move the steering back and forth helps too.
If you’re running locked all the time, I wonder if the axle shafts have a harder time “floating” in the splines when you’re driving in 2H. The shafts move in and out naturally some, more when turning left and right. Maybe with the locker locked, it’s applying pressure to the hub that spins TOWARDS locked? Only one side does this, passenger side if I remember. In other words, the locker isn’t letting the shaft slip on the splines, causing the end of the stub-shaft to butt forcibly against the hub dial....maybe turning it. Might even have damaged splines.
Maybe?
Totally pulling that from my ass. I dunno
 
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