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Hummer H1's on SRW axles?

Stomis

Stomis

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So since I have decided on getting some hummer 37x12.5 r16.5 MT's for my truck I'm also thinking I'm gonna get some hummer beadlock wheels to go with them. My question is since they are like 6 or 7in of backspacing stock whats it going to look like on a SRW truck? Is it going to interfere? I was figuring I could just run some 2.5in spacers and be dandy. no?
 
Without wheel spacers you will have to trim a lot to fit the tires and the tires will probably hit the steering box (and you may not be able to get them on in the first place, the wheel could hit the steering linkage).

I don't like wheel spacers, this is the reason most people with SRW axles recenter the H1's
 
Hmmm yeah I really dont want to fork out the dough for that though... Maybe I'll go ass backwards and convert srw axles to dual :D
 
Stomis said:
So since I have decided on getting some hummer 37x12.5 r16.5 MT's for my truck I'm also thinking I'm gonna get some hummer beadlock wheels to go with them. My question is since they are like 6 or 7in of backspacing stock whats it going to look like on a SRW truck? Is it going to interfere? I was figuring I could just run some 2.5in spacers and be dandy. no?
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They have 7.25" of backspacing I believe, and from what Ive seen on here, the will not fit on stock SRW axles due to interference with steering components.

Your options:
1) Have the H1's recentered with less backspacing
2) Swap the SRW hubs/axles with DRW hubs/axles
3) Wheel spacers (Someone else will have to chime in on which spacers work better)

I went with the DRW axle route and couldn't be happier with it.
 
Readymix has a combo similar to what you suggested; SRW + 2" spacers + 39" TSL's. Check out his pics and site (brokentrucks.com , I believe). He's got a really nice truck and it looks great. :pimp:
 
Do you have a 60 up front? Or is this on the rig in your sig with a 44?

If it is on the 44 I would recenter the h1's or run a different wheel

If you have a 60 then I would try to swap for some DRW hubs for the front and spacers in the rear, this is what I run and I haven't had any problems. Even if you run a 2.5" spacer in the front your tires will still be pretty tucked in, which might still rub when stuffed and turning.
 
NorCalKid said:
Do you have a 60 up front? Or is this on the rig in your sig with a 44?

If it is on the 44 I would recenter the h1's or run a different wheel

If you have a 60 then I would try to swap for some DRW hubs for the front and spacers in the rear, this is what I run and I haven't had any problems. Even if you run a 2.5" spacer in the front your tires will still be pretty tucked in, which might still rub when stuffed and turning.
Click to expand...

Yeah its the truck in the sig but I'm getting 1tons for it.
 
Ok so if I wind up with SRW axle after looking at those pictures 2" spacers will do the job.

Now I take it that hummer wheels are double beadlocked? I was only going to run them with the retaining ring on the outside, bad idea?

What a second I think I have this whole concept of beadlocks a little backwards. I thought beadlocks were the rings on the outside that bolt over the bead.
 
Stomis said:
Ok so if I wind up with SRW axle after looking at those pictures 2" spacers will do the job.

Now I take it that hummer wheels are double beadlocked? I was only going to run them with the retaining ring on the outside, bad idea?

What a second I think I have this whole concept of beadlocks a little backwards. I thought beadlocks were the rings on the outside that bolt over the bead.
Click to expand...

H1 beadlocks have a ring inside the wheel (usually magnesium or plastic) that keeps either bead from breaking, that's why they are a two piece wheel.

Most beadlocks only hold the outside bead because that's the one you would lose 99% of the time.

One downfall to the H1's is that they are easy to bend, unlike most conventional beadlocks.
 
The stock runflats act as beadlocks, people cut the run flat portion off because they tend to destroy tires. I will go find a picture real quick
 
Here is a stock h1 runflat/beadlock insert
attachment.php

Edit woops this is already cut down
figure-7.jpg

heres one cut down
beadlock_minus_runflat_fs.jpg

in the wheel
figure-9.jpg

then you just bolt the 2 sides of the wheel together and the insert squishes the tires to the rim
 
So can I run the wheels without the inner beadlock or is it not worth anything? Basically the h1's are double beadlocked then? Cause I can see the outer ring to hold the bead that I thought they didnt have. How about maroon ring whats that? part of the runflat?

Wait no thats the pvc ring your talking about whats that for?
 
The H1's are a completely different style of beadlock then what you are thinking about. You are thinking about the more common style where there is a retaining ring only on the outside lip that holds the outer bead.

On a H1, all of the beadlock comes from the insert (magnesium insert/run flat typically stock, PVC style common aftermarket). If you do not have the insert the H1 wheel is no different than a normal 16.5 tire with the exception that you can unbolt the two pieces.

Basically, you have 3 pieces - inner shell, outer shell, insert. You have to have the inner and outer shell otherwise there is no way to put a tire on it. Whether or not you have the insert determines whether it is a beadlock or not, but I believe you can run the wheel without the insert (correct me if I'm wrong).
 
I ran one of my 8 bolt wheels without the bead lock for a few thousand miles when I was in SoCal. It was fine on the street, but the one time I took it off road I lost the outer bead in short order.
 
6.2Blazer said:
The H1's are a completely different style of beadlock then what you are thinking about. You are thinking about the more common style where there is a retaining ring only on the outside lip that holds the outer bead.

On a H1, all of the beadlock comes from the insert (magnesium insert/run flat typically stock, PVC style common aftermarket). If you do not have the insert the H1 wheel is no different than a normal 16.5 tire with the exception that you can unbolt the two pieces.

Basically, you have 3 pieces - inner shell, outer shell, insert. You have to have the inner and outer shell otherwise there is no way to put a tire on it. Whether or not you have the insert determines whether it is a beadlock or not, but I believe you can run the wheel without the insert (correct me if I'm wrong).
Click to expand...

O ok so the pvc one he made is to replace the magnesium runflat/inner beadlock piece?
 
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