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hydro and cooler

This is the easiest, cheapest way to do it....

Ram, hose, and adapters....ram is 8" stroke for stock tie-rod location, adapters for the hose and gearbox, and 48" hose...could get shorter hose if you want, as well as an extra one....
http://surpluscenter.com/cart.asp?UID=2008082912082629&catname=hydraulic
$112.23


Front cap....this way you dont have to disassemle the gearbox and mess with balls and orings and things...dont even have to take the gearbox off....you could save money by drilling and tapping the side of the box instead, but i think the 64 bucks is well worth the ease....
http://emsoffroad.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=240
$64.99


Mounts....you could save money by making your own mounts.....
http://diy4x.com/misc.htm
$49.99


All you need is a tap for the top cap of the gearbox and some zip-ties...
let me know if you need pics....


Also, great info....
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/tech/Hydro_info/DIY_HydraulicRamAssist.htm
 
is that ram better than the psc ram that was posted above? i see the psc has adjusting swivel eyes.
 
nerraw117 said:
is that ram better than the psc ram that was posted above? i see the psc has adjusting swivel eyes.
Click to expand...

The swivel eyes are actually called Spherical Rod Ends (SRE's) or Heim joints.

The joints on the end are better than a fixed bolt, the larger 1" rod is much harder to bend than the 5/8" rodon the aftermarket rams.


I've run the cheap Surplus Center ram for several years no with no issues.
 
Also keep in mind that the large diameter shaft reduces the surface area so the ram will move slower one way than the other. If you're careful about the mounting location that will greatly minimize the chances for bending the shaft.
 
the ram posted above has SRE's, as does PSC...ive been running mine for a year and its in good shape...it does turn a little slower than I'd like, but it will turn 44" TSLs aired down to 5psi on pavement at idle....which is good....:D
 
the psc has a .625 rod and the surplus has a 1 inch rod. which is better? i dont know the differant characteristics of both. woudlnt the 1 inch have way more strength pushing left than right?
 
but will the .625 rod be quicker and mor eequal pressure left and right? someone was telling the the 1 inch rod will have tons of power left and have hardly any power left. im just trying to find out which is better? i could always protect the .625 rod by butting it behind my dom tie rod.
 
Here's some math for you.
The blind end of the ram has an equasion of P*A=F
P=hydraulic pressure in PSI
A=Area of the piston or bore
F=Force in pounds

The rod end uses the equasion P*(A-R)=F
P=hydraulic pressure in PSI
A=area of piston or bore
R=area of rod
F=Force in pounds

So, lets say you are using the 1.5x8x1 ram and have 500 PSI of pressure (I'm not actually sure what the ps pumps make, but you'll get my point.)

You take the area of the piston (or bore from here on) and run it through this equasion.
(Bore/2)^2*pi so you get (1.5/2)^2*3.1415=~1.77sq/in

Then you plug that into your equasion of P*A=F
500*1.77=885lbs of force.

Next, calculate the area of the rod or (1/2)^2*3.1415=~0.79sq/in

Then plug that into the equasion P*(A-R)=F
500*(1.77-.79)=490Lbs of force

So, you have 885lbsf on the extend and 490lbsf on the retract or the extend is 180% as strong as the retract. This also means that the retract, while being weaker, will be ~180% faster than the extend. This is simply the applied version of the calculations, and doens't account for pressure/flow losses due to fittings, hoses, valves, ect. Hope that helped some.
 
so if i get the smaller diamter rod it will have closer to equal force on both sides and be faster than the 1 inch rod. and the 1 inch rod will be more power full on extend but have a weaker retract becuase of the larger diamter rod?
 
nerraw117 said:
so if i get the smaller diamter rod it will have closer to equal force on both sides
Click to expand...

True


and be faster than the 1 inch rod.
Click to expand...

on the retract only




and the 1 inch rod will be more power full on extend but have a weaker retract becuase of the larger diamter rod?
Click to expand...

The extend will be the same regardless of rod diameter because the bore of the cylinder is the same. The retract speed and power are the only things changed by rod diameter.
 
then the .625 rod seems like it would be a better candidate then the 1 inch. why do most people run the 1 inch? i would hate for my steering to be differant left vs right as in speed and power.
 
If you ran a system like the one pictured here with two (2) 1.125 (1 1/8) bore with a .625 rod cylinders, you'd get 840lbsf(using the same 500psi from my calculations earlier) either direction and with less total volume than the single 1.5" (for the same 8" stroke) would be faster and have equal speed in either direction. It'd just take a little more engineering.

crossconnected.jpg

Picture from BillaVistas steering guide on pirate4x4.com
 
i think i am going to run a single assist. i am not the best person with math to be quite honest. but i would get better results with the .625 rod correct? I think i understand that the .625 rod would be better.
 
Yeah, the .625 rod would give you better (or at least more equal) response in either diretion. However, people run the 1" rod because of fear of bending it.
 
nerraw117 said:
i think i am going to run a single assist. i am not the best person with math to be quite honest. but i would get better results with the .625 rod correct? I think i understand that the .625 rod would be better.
Click to expand...

Again, its better except that its easier to bend. The steering power will be more balanced than one with a 1" rod and it will have a bit more force when compressing the cylinder (i.e. you'll have less force while steering right).

I run the cylinder with the 1" rod because its harder to bend. I have personally seen two different rams with .625" rods fold in half (one was Steve Fox's, even), neither bent due to contact with the rocks (seemingly, at least).

I run 42's purely in the rocks and my ram turns the tires just fine. I don't even notice the steering power difference in the two directions.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
whatever you decide, you can get it cheaper from surpluscenter.com... rams of all sizes, just make sure you fittings match the hose....

i just realized that the link i gave you guys earlier was to my cart, and it is empty :confused: oops....here ya go......

Ram..
http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008090112092405&item=9-7258-8&catname=hydraulic
$84.99


Hose....need 2 of them....
http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008090112092405&item=918-3248&catname=hydraulic
$10.50 x 2


Ram-to-Hose adapter....need 2....
http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008090112092405&item=9-6902-6-6&catname=hydraulic
$3.25 x 2


Box-to-Hose adapter....need 2...
http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008090112092405&item=9-6901-6-6&catname=hydraulic
$4.80 x 2

Front cap....this way you dont have to disassemle the gearbox and mess with balls and orings and things...dont even have to take the gearbox off....you could save money by drilling and tapping the side of the box instead, but i think the 64 bucks is well worth the ease....can be found for as cheap as 50 bucks at other sites...
http://emsoffroad.com/shop/index.php...roducts_id=240
$64.99


Mounts....you could save money by making your own mounts.....
http://diy4x.com/misc.htm
$49.99


Total of 237.07 for the EASY way...

Could be had for 122.09 if you drill you box on the side and make your own tabs....


All you need is a tap for the top cap of the gearbox and some zip-ties...
let me know if you need pics....


Also, great info....
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.co...rsteering.html
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/tech/...cRamAssist.htm

That should work better....
 
so if you use kerts option for mounting the tab your fittings will be facing the axle. no fitment problems and you left out the hose to fittings adapter. that hose has 3/8 pipe thread. looks to me the box and cyl will be #6 jic
 
my last question. that cyl on surplus that you posted up. i see that it has heims. but cab the actual cyl swivel any degree? or is the movement just in the inside of the heims? reaso i ask if i run kerts mount it will make the fittings face the axle according to the photo and i am unsure what clearance issues i will run into.
 
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