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Hydro assist questions!

wetoolowdingbangow

wetoolowdingbangow

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Well after searching all over for hydro assist stuff ive come up with a few questions. Ill be using the surplus center concoction and im wondering what the latest preference of mounting is. I read through colbys write up and he mounted the ram directly to the axle housing. I've also seen the ram mounted to a heavy duty diff cover, which I have so thats an option as well.

So mount the ram to the housing or diff cover?

I also see some people go with 1/4 inch lines and other say 3/8".

Which is better?
 
Here is how mine was mounted on my D60. I called DIY4X and had him make me some tabs. I put it at an angle to get the fittings above the tierod.



 
I'm just in the process of re-attempting the hydro assist on my 92 with a ford d60. Mounted my ram this way using the 4 cover bolts.



Im currently running 1/4" lines but have not got it working properly, new box and pump are ready to go in.
 
mines here with multiple pics...start at post 3324

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261694&page=67

HPIM3587800x600.jpg
 
I have the DIY4X cover set up. It works. I have no experience with the other setup.

Martin
 
Mine is attached to the axle housing. Either way works. I run 3/8" lines, but most guys run 1/4".
 
Ok so ive got all the hydro assist parts and Ive got a few questions. I know im going to get the 1.5" diameter tie rod bar from ORD, but what rod ends are you guys using? Es2234L and R? Is anyone running into clearance issues when the ram is attached to the axle tube, forcing you to use the offset tie rod ends?
 
Mine is mounted with a WFO bracket. I don't like the idea of it pushing and pulling on the diff cover all the time, to each his own... just a personal preference as history shows either way works.
 
I'll agree with Avery about the diff cover. Mine is welded to an HD cover. Not long afterwords it started to leak. Since then, and many times out, it hasn't leaked. I like the idea of using some of the diff cover bolts. Otherwise off the tube would be best.

I can't remember the line size I used. I think I used -6AN though, i think.

With the HD diff cover, I ended up having to use offset ends. Not sure if that's normal but I couldn't get away with the straight ones. They are in my toolbox as extras. Maybe if I used more of the steering stops, I could run the straight ends, but I don't like giving up steering radius.
 
Thanks for replying guys. I see using the diff cover as being a pain, especially if it needs to come off.

That being said I have some tabs for the axle tube. I think it will allow me to use the straight rod ends which is what id like. Ill be running the 3/8s line as well.

In regards to the drilling and tapping of the sector shaft cover, is that something I can just take off the sector shaft without removing the shaft from the box? It would make it a lot easier to put it in the mill vise.

I know ill be having to adjust the slop once its back together but thats no big deal.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Thanks for replying guys. I see using the diff cover as being a pain, especially if it needs to come off.

That being said I have some tabs for the axle tube. I think it will allow me to use the straight rod ends which is what id like. Ill be running the 3/8s line as well.

In regards to the drilling and tapping of the sector shaft cover, is that something I can just take off the sector shaft without removing the shaft from the box? It would make it a lot easier to put it in the mill vise.

I know ill be having to adjust the slop once its back together but thats no big deal.
Click to expand...

Top cover comes off without removing the sector shaft.
 
I have a DIY4X diff cover with the ram mount. I have never had a leak. It isn't that big of deal to remove either.

Martin
 
You didn't say but I assume you are doing low steer and not high steer. If you are doing high steer then it also depends on whether you are doing tie rod in front or back and driver or passenger drop. I had DIY4X make a custom version of their high steer ram tower that allowed for tighter packaging against the spring pack. I was going to use a WFO tower for the price but doing the custom spec route allowed me to make mine with the exact measurements I wanted.

11138523_710158829467_2244868192285601447_n.jpg


10300077_707282059537_814002001294604845_n.jpg


That is a 8" stroke Surplus Center ram that I destroked 1" internally using a billet aluminum collar.
 
truck-oholic said:
Here is their regular style high steer ram tower.

DSC01608-400x400.jpg

DSC01617-500x500.jpg
Click to expand...


Thats an awesome setup! im using the non highsteer route for right now. I was debating on using a clamp for the tie rod but I think ill just weld it since its not a daily driver.

Any tips for getting the ram extended out? I think your supposed to set up the ram with it extended and the tires turned all the way driver side, atleast that gives you an idea of where the tie rod mount should be?
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Any tips for getting the ram extended out? I think your supposed to set up the ram with it extended and the tires turned all the way driver side, atleast that gives you an idea of where the tie rod mount should be?
Click to expand...

Ideally, you want the steering stop and cylinder to bottom out at the same time. If the knuckle bottoms first, you run the risk of breaking the knuckle with the extra force from the cylinder. If the cylinder bottoms first, your run the risk of breaking the cylinder it you put force on it at full lock (like dropping off an obstacle at full lock). I've seen both fail several times, but I'm sure many have been lucky running them "wrong".
 
38377k5 said:
Ideally, you want the steering stop and cylinder to bottom out at the same time. If the knuckle bottoms first, you run the risk of breaking the knuckle with the extra force from the cylinder. If the cylinder bottoms first, your run the risk of breaking the cylinder it you put force on it at full lock (like dropping off an obstacle at full lock). I've seen both fail several times, but I'm sure many have been lucky running them "wrong".
Click to expand...


Interesting thanks for the info! I suppose the best way to configure this ram is to get it extended, get the axle on the steering stop then weld the tabs. After that I can adjust the stop out maybe a 1/16"? Is the easiest way to extend the ram by hooking it up to the steering box to run fluid through it?
 
So is a 3.25"x14" straight heatsink enough for keeping the fluid cool? It goes on the return side so I think barb fittings with hose claps will work ok?

Does everyone run it off the return line of the power steering or is there another way to plumb it in?
 
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