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Hydro boost w/ Hydro-Assist and 1 PS Pump

sandawgk5

sandawgk5

3/4 ton status
Joined
Oct 28, 2003
Posts
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Location
Kitsap County PACNORWEST
Well I finally got my Hydro-Assist installed with the help of Readymix. I only run 1 PS pump that I opened up and notched the orifice and stretched the spring to 2". I also have a stock Hydro-boost unit on my rig. The ram is a 1.75 X 8" PSC unit and it is mounted to my roughstuff Diff cover. For the rez I found one of those dodge remote rez nipples laying on the ground in the junkyard:D and I found a remote rez from a chevy van. We relocated the bracket and mounted the remote rez by the MC using one of the MC mounting studs. I still have some air in the system that is getting worked out slowly.

The end result.

I really like how I can turn the wheel now. Even at idle with my foot on the brake I can turn the wheels with hubs locked and on pavement (I have a welded front) I drove it around the block with the hubs locked (I have no front driveshaft so it is OK):D and I will just say it was interesting with all 4 tires wanting to turn the same speed going around a corner:D. The only time I had an issue with steering was when the pump would find another air bubble other than that I am very pleased with the outcome.

I also took it down the road without the hubs locked and any front end shake I used to have is gone as well as any hint of death wobble. The speed, all though not as fast as stock, is actually plenty for safe street driving. I would not recommend doing any power slides but for the normal sytle of driving the ram speed is adequate.

These are just my experiences, I am not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night use this knowledge at your own risk.:D

I will get some pics up shortly.

Ira
 
Heres the pics.

The Rez location
rez.JPG

The nipple connecting the two resevoirs
reznipple.JPG
It is a crappy pic batteries are dying and would not fire the flash:o.

Here is how we connected the hoses. Fittings are 3/8 NPT to -6AN and the hoses are Weatherhead with reusable ends. The end cap is from JKWOFFROAD.
endcap.JPG
topcap.JPG

Ira

rez.JPG

endcap.JPG

topcap.JPG

reznipple.JPG
 
The rest of the pics.

Here is the Roughstuff diff cover. I needed longer bolts due to the 3/8 flange so I used black oxide coated cap screws for the anti bling look:D.
diffcover.JPG

And here is a front shot and a side shot of the ram and the hose routing. I ran the hoses between the fan shrouda and my ORD Bolt in steering brace.
ramfront.JPG
ramside.JPG

Ira

diffcover.JPG

ramfront.JPG

ramside.JPG
 
TeK said:
now see when I redo I'll just buy a kit. Makes all the headaches go away.
Click to expand...
????. This statement confuses me. Do you think I bought a kit or do you think my install was complicated? Neither is the case and I have only aboot $400 with all odds and ends that includes the cover, ram, hoses, fittings, end cap and all junkyard parts and fasteners. That is aboot 1/2 of what the complete PSC system runs. Some have done it cheaper and some have spent more.

Ira
 
I would spend more and get a kit tailer to what I need. What you did was cheap and easy, yet effective for what you needed.
 
sandawgk5 said:
The speed, all though not as fast as stock, is actually plenty for safe street driving. I would not recommend doing any power slides but for the normal sytle of driving the ram speed is adequate.

These are just my experiences, I am not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night use this knowledge at your own risk.:D
Ira
Click to expand...


Hey sandawg, Maybe you can answer a question I have had for some time now. My biggest question when researching the upgrade to hydro assist is this. What keeps the mechanical steering sycronized with the hydr assist. Obviously the hydro can't overide the mechanical but does this create a problem with one trying to move faster or slower than the other. What do you mean by it is not as fast as stock? Just a little confusing as to what I should expect cause I have to do something before long.
 
JEBSR said:
Hey sandawg, Maybe you can answer a question I have had for some time now. My biggest question when researching the upgrade to hydro assist is this. What keeps the mechanical steering sycronized with the hydr assist. Obviously the hydro can't overide the mechanical but does this create a problem with one trying to move faster or slower than the other. What do you mean by it is not as fast as stock? Just a little confusing as to what I should expect cause I have to do something before long.
Click to expand...

The way I syncd my mechanical with the ram is by pushing the ram all the way in the turning the wheels hard right. I then marked the Tierod for the mounts. I then pulled the ram all the way out and turned the wheel hard left and marked the tierod again. Doing this I found that my stops where not set equally on each side and I could turn harder right than left. It was pretty confusing but we took some measurements and determined that if we welded for the wheels hard left then full stroke would give us equal turning radius both ways.

The mechanical steering will not overcome the ram so once it is welded they will stay syncd to where you put them. By doing this your steering speed is set by how fast you can push the fluid into the cylinder and then the cylinder moving.

When I said it is not as fast as stock I meant that you cannot snap the wheel around with the ram. I can turn the wheel almost as fast as I could before with no ram on but it is a little slower. For the driving I do it is not an issue as I said I do not drive it like a corvette so I do not need to be turning against a corner:D. I was surprised that the wheel wants to return to center slightly. Again it is not like it was without a ram. Doing it all over again I would prolly do it the same way. I chose the 1.75" ram as I have intentions of going with larger tires in the 42" variety. If I was to stay in the 35-38 range I would prolly have gone with the 1.5" ram and that will add a little speed to the steering over what I have.

Did that clear anything up or is it clear as mud?

Ira
 
sandawgk5 said:
The way I syncd my mechanical with the ram is by pushing the ram all the way in the turning the wheels hard right. I then marked the Tierod for the mounts. I then pulled the ram all the way out and turned the wheel hard left and marked the tierod again. Doing this I found that my stops where not set equally on each side and I could turn harder right than left. It was pretty confusing but we took some measurements and determined that if we welded for the wheels hard left then full stroke would give us equal turning radius both ways.

The mechanical steering will not overcome the ram so once it is welded they will stay syncd to where you put them. By doing this your steering speed is set by how fast you can push the fluid into the cylinder and then the cylinder moving.

When I said it is not as fast as stock I meant that you cannot snap the wheel around with the ram. I can turn the wheel almost as fast as I could before with no ram on but it is a little slower. For the driving I do it is not an issue as I said I do not drive it like a corvette so I do not need to be turning against a corner:D. I was surprised that the wheel wants to return to center slightly. Again it is not like it was without a ram. Doing it all over again I would prolly do it the same way. I chose the 1.75" ram as I have intentions of going with larger tires in the 42" variety. If I was to stay in the 35-38 range I would prolly have gone with the 1.5" ram and that will add a little speed to the steering over what I have.

Did that clear anything up or is it clear as mud?

Ira
Click to expand...

Sure did, thanks for the info..:D
 
Thanks for all the info Ira this is really a great post.

Please update us if you run into any little problems or anything
 
sandawgk5 said:
Well I finally got my Hydro-Assist installed with the help of Readymix. I only run 1 PS pump that I opened up and notched the orifice and stretched the spring to 2". I also have a stock Hydro-boost unit on my rig. The ram is a 1.75 X 8" PSC unit and it is mounted to my roughstuff Diff cover. For the rez I found one of those dodge remote rez nipples laying on the ground in the junkyard:D and I found a remote rez from a chevy van. We relocated the bracket and mounted the remote rez by the MC using one of the MC mounting studs. I still have some air in the system that is getting worked out slowly.

The end result.

I really like how I can turn the wheel now. Even at idle with my foot on the brake I can turn the wheels with hubs locked and on pavement (I have a welded front) I drove it around the block with the hubs locked (I have no front driveshaft so it is OK):D and I will just say it was interesting with all 4 tires wanting to turn the same speed going around a corner:D. The only time I had an issue with steering was when the pump would find another air bubble other than that I am very pleased with the outcome.

I also took it down the road without the hubs locked and any front end shake I used to have is gone as well as any hint of death wobble. The speed, all though not as fast as stock, is actually plenty for safe street driving. I would not recommend doing any power slides but for the normal sytle of driving the ram speed is adequate.

These are just my experiences, I am not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night use this knowledge at your own risk.:D

I will get some pics up shortly.

Ira
Click to expand...


Can you explain where/how/why you tapped into the gearbox for the two additional hoses? I saw on another thread how he did it but didn't go into why he was able to do it.

Thanks
 
CDA 455 said:
Can you explain where/how/why you tapped into the gearbox for the two additional hoses? I saw on another thread how he did it but didn't go into why he was able to do it.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I used a new billet end cap from JKWOFFROAD and I drilled and tapped my top cap. The reason for doing this is to get the Hydraulics (i.e. Power steering fluid) to the ram that is attached to the tierod. Running it off of the steering gear ensures that when you turn the steering wheel the ram will get fluid to it in the proper direction to assist the PS box with the turn. This is Hydro Assist. If this was Full Hydro then there would be an orbital valve to port fluid to the ram vice a steering shaft and steering box.

Ira
 
sandawgk5 said:
I used a new billet end cap from JKWOFFROAD and I drilled and tapped my top cap. The reason for doing this is to get the Hydraulics (i.e. Power steering fluid) to the ram that is attached to the tierod. Running it off of the steering gear ensures that when you turn the steering wheel the ram will get fluid to it in the proper direction to assist the PS box with the turn. This is Hydro Assist. If this was Full Hydro then there would be an orbital valve to port fluid to the ram vice a steering shaft and steering box.

Ira
Click to expand...


Let me rephrase my question:

Can you tap ANYWHERE on the PS box with the hydraulic hoses for the ram? Or, does it have to be in ONLY certain areas?

I put an AGR Rockram kit on my Powerstroke Diesel so I'm familiar with the system.

What I was wondering, is taking a stock factory PS box and drilling it (tapping) somewhere on the housing to fit the hoses for the hydraulic ram.
 
Last edited:
You tap the box not the pump.

But no you can't just do it anywhere. It has to be in certain ares around the input side of the pump so that you can get the hydro lines in the fluid passage of the box.
 
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