CDA 455
3/4 ton status
readymix said:
Ooops! Typo
!! I meant PS box. Thanks for the catch
!CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Hydro boost w/ Hydro-Assist and 1 PS Pump
- Thread starter sandawgk5
- Start date
Ooops! Typo
!! I meant PS box. Thanks for the catch
!
readymix
3/4 ton status
I figured.....just had to throw it out there anyway.
CDA 455
3/4 ton status
readymix said:
So does the PS box have chambers like a heart? Fluid only goes in one way and out the other?
readymix
3/4 ton status
On the input part yes. Then it is routed one of two ways at/after the torque bar.....or whatever it is called???
You need to have the holes tapped in the fluid passages after the torque bar. Then whenever you turn the wheel the fluid is routed to the ram and the internals of the box.
You need to have the holes tapped in the fluid passages after the torque bar. Then whenever you turn the wheel the fluid is routed to the ram and the internals of the box.
WC
Registered Member
so if you increase pressure and do the other mods to the pump ..and perhaps use a 2.5 howe steering ram...would this setup be fast enough at high speeds?
i would like hydro assist but i dont like the ill effects of a slow system.
i would like hydro assist but i dont like the ill effects of a slow system.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
PeteH said:
A 2.5" ram is for full hydro and would be way slow even with a modded stock steering pump. I would not go any bigger than a 1.75 for onroad / offroad use. For offroad only full hydro is the only way to go.
Ira
CDA 455
3/4 ton status
Hey Ira, a lot of people have been asking your where-abouts. Thought you got lost or something 
!
!
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
CDA 455 said:Hey Ira, a lot of people have been asking your where-abouts. Thought you got lost or something
Ya I went to the old mans house in FL for New Years I realized I did not let everyone know I was going out of town. My dad only has dialup and I refuse to even log on to the net with dial up way to slow.
Ira
reddog64
1/2 ton status
So is it safe to say that the larger the bore of the cylindar the slower it will "turn"
Some one said not to go over 1.75 for off and on road driving...
Why not go to a 1.5 and be a little faster at turning?
Some one said not to go over 1.75 for off and on road driving...
Why not go to a 1.5 and be a little faster at turning?
Yes that is safe to say. Your pump can only pump so much fluid so fast.
Some people do that but the smaller you go the less steering assist you get. The smaller rams don't push with as much force as the bigger ones do.
Mike
Some people do that but the smaller you go the less steering assist you get. The smaller rams don't push with as much force as the bigger ones do.
Mike
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Some people do run a 1.5. I chose a 1.75 for future tire size and the fact that I run a welded front.
Dik
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
so you can buy the endcap made for a hose, and the other is beside the adjustment stud on the removable plate, so you remove and drill and tap it off of the truck, so you don't have to tear the sector apart, to keep metal chips, from drilling, from entering the sector.
is there any difference doing it this way(other than obvious fittings location) and doing it the other way, where they drill and tap the sector itself ...like this?
can you use hydro assist w/factory steering/draglink location, and save up $, then swap the caps/fittings off of 4wd sector to a 2wd sector, and install passengerside steering arm and x-over draglink? or should you do the pass. steering arm and x-over draglink and then save for the hydro assist?
also, what is best used for x-over draglink? i've heard people talking about an xj or yj rod, are they using this stock jeep part for x-over draglink? any other choices or better?
is there any difference doing it this way(other than obvious fittings location) and doing it the other way, where they drill and tap the sector itself ...like this?
can you use hydro assist w/factory steering/draglink location, and save up $, then swap the caps/fittings off of 4wd sector to a 2wd sector, and install passengerside steering arm and x-over draglink? or should you do the pass. steering arm and x-over draglink and then save for the hydro assist?
also, what is best used for x-over draglink? i've heard people talking about an xj or yj rod, are they using this stock jeep part for x-over draglink? any other choices or better?
When people say the sector shaft they mean the shaft that the pitman arm hooks to, not the whole steering gear box. The sector shaft is inside the steering gear box.
The only difference between a 2wd and a 4wd steering gear box is the clocking of the pitman arm. The 4wd pitman arm points to the drivers side of the truck and moves front to back. The 2wd pitman arm points to the rear of the truck and moves from left to right. You can take the sector shaft out of a 2wd steering gear box and install it into a 4wd steering gear box if you wanted to.
The XJ steering shaft people are talking about goes from the steering column to the steering gear box. It gets rid of the rag joint on the steering gear box end of the stock steering shaft. The XJ shaft has small universal joints in it instead of the rag joint, which makes it much more responsive to steering input.
The YJ shaft looks just like the XJ shaft, but I haven't read about people using it, so I am wondering if they are a different size.
I hope this helps,
Mike
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
yes i understand all that, 1st part, missed my question....
when you say steering gear box, this is what i have called steering sector all my life...is this not correct..b/c somewhere/somehow...you went into telling me about the shaft, and the difference between 2wd/4wd sectors....i know all this,..
other than the jeep rods,..my question was:
is there any pros/cons on the way you tapped your box on the end w/aftermarket end..and tapping the plate the adjustment stud sticks thru, i wanted to know, how much,or any difference in performance..between the way you did it, and the way its done in the pic i posted?
when you say steering gear box, this is what i have called steering sector all my life...is this not correct..b/c somewhere/somehow...you went into telling me about the shaft, and the difference between 2wd/4wd sectors....i know all this,..
other than the jeep rods,..my question was:
is there any pros/cons on the way you tapped your box on the end w/aftermarket end..and tapping the plate the adjustment stud sticks thru, i wanted to know, how much,or any difference in performance..between the way you did it, and the way its done in the pic i posted?
I think the end cap and the removeable plate on top of the steering box would be the best way, but I haven't done it so I don't really know.
I was just trying to explain what a sector shaft is because you are calling the steering box a sector shaft. That made me think you didn't understand what was going on with the steering box part of X over. Not the hydraulic part.
Sorry if I offended you,
Mike
I was just trying to explain what a sector shaft is because you are calling the steering box a sector shaft. That made me think you didn't understand what was going on with the steering box part of X over. Not the hydraulic part.
Sorry if I offended you,
Mike
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
no...no..no offense...but not calling it sector shaft...just sector b/c what you are calling the steering box..iirc, its correct name is steering sector, hence the shaft coming out of it being called ''sector shaft''.
if both ways of tapping box is equal, the endplate and adjustment stud plate, indeed should be easier, because drilling and tapping the top plate can be done on workbench w/o worry of getting chips/shavings in the ''box''.
w/this method being so easy, and you don't have to disassemble the sector to tap and drill to keep metal chips out, why do they tap the box like in picture...when you can do it, w/ the removable plates..w/o complete teardown to avoid metal chips in the box...i thought there must be a reason they tapping the box, instead of the removable plates
if both ways of tapping box is equal, the endplate and adjustment stud plate, indeed should be easier, because drilling and tapping the top plate can be done on workbench w/o worry of getting chips/shavings in the ''box''.
w/this method being so easy, and you don't have to disassemble the sector to tap and drill to keep metal chips out, why do they tap the box like in picture...when you can do it, w/ the removable plates..w/o complete teardown to avoid metal chips in the box...i thought there must be a reason they tapping the box, instead of the removable plates
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
no...no..no offense...but not calling it sector shaft...just sector b/c what you are calling the steering box..iirc, its correct name is steering sector, hence the shaft coming out of it being called ''sector shaft''.
if both ways of tapping box is equal, the endplate and adjustment stud plate, indeed should be easier, because drilling and tapping the top plate can be done on workbench w/o worry of getting chips/shavings in the ''box''.
w/this method being so easy, and you don't have to disassemble the sector to tap and drill to keep metal chips out, why do they tap the box like in picture...when you can do it, w/ the removable plates..w/o complete teardown to avoid metal chips in the box...i thought there must be a reason they tapping the box, instead of the removable plates
Unless you want to redo the lash in the steering box, you need to remove the pitman arm and remove the sector shaft with the top cap.
That is how I did mine and just changed out the end cap with a billet one machined for hydro. Another reason I did it this way is other people have had issues with tires ripping fittings out of boxes tapped on the side.
Dik
no...no..no offense...but not calling it sector shaft...just sector b/c what you are calling the steering box..iirc, its correct name is steering sector, hence the shaft coming out of it being called ''sector shaft''.
if both ways of tapping box is equal, the endplate and adjustment stud plate, indeed should be easier, because drilling and tapping the top plate can be done on workbench w/o worry of getting chips/shavings in the ''box''.
w/this method being so easy, and you don't have to disassemble the sector to tap and drill to keep metal chips out, why do they tap the box like in picture...when you can do it, w/ the removable plates..w/o complete teardown to avoid metal chips in the box...i thought there must be a reason they tapping the box, instead of the removable plates
IIRC, the secotor shaft is called that because the sector (incomplete, not round) gear mounts on it. I've never heard a steering box called a sector, only a sector gear and sector shaft, but it doesn't really matter as long as we can understand each other.
Edit: I think the early adopters of hydraulic assist figured out that those locations in the side of the box had access to the control pressures they needed. After problems with tires hitting the fittings and the difficulty of tapping the whole box, it was discovered that the end and top caps would work too. I think now basically everybody uses those locations.
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
so, when you pull the top plate off, the sector shaft comes up thru the top w/the plate?, after the arm is removed, of course.
you drill & tap the hole, spray away any pieces of metal w/carb cleaner, and reinstall,(and the sector lash hasn't changed?) ready to run?
then install end cap, and your set?
while you have shaft out of the box? should you replace the sector shaft seal(does it have a regular seal?), or can it be changed from outside the box, before you reinstall the steering arm? i've never taken a steering sector apart, is it as easy as what i have stated here? any surprises, anything spring loaded going to shoot out when you remove either top or end cap? or is it pretty much straight forward like stated here?
you drill & tap the hole, spray away any pieces of metal w/carb cleaner, and reinstall,(and the sector lash hasn't changed?) ready to run?
then install end cap, and your set?
while you have shaft out of the box? should you replace the sector shaft seal(does it have a regular seal?), or can it be changed from outside the box, before you reinstall the steering arm? i've never taken a steering sector apart, is it as easy as what i have stated here? any surprises, anything spring loaded going to shoot out when you remove either top or end cap? or is it pretty much straight forward like stated here?
