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hydro clutch from the depths of he!! I GOT PEDEL NOW

sweetk30

sweetk30

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first half story http://www.coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193238&highlight=hydro+clutch all figured out the hard way please read it so it wont happen to you.

i have all new master slave and clutch/pressure plate with hydro fork and new piviot ball stud in bell. i have blead and blead the thing both with 2 guys and just gravity. i have also removed the slave and tiped it on end for bleader to be top most point. i even pushed the slave back in the housing by hand 15-20 times over a 20 min time frame.

my problem is i still have a 50/50 shot of having pedel. when its there wow is it there and nice. then all of a sudden its gone and not even there. to the floor in no time and soft as like no fluid in system.

i have checked for leaks and found none. i have good flow to the bleader on slave in both gravity and pressure . i have drivin the truck and its still 50/50 shot. also let it sit for 1 month as i was fedup with it at the time and to darn cold to work on it out side.

help a brother out and get me some pedel. thanks.

LOOK AT NEW POST IN BOTTOM.
 
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I'M IN THE SAME POSITION been back and forth with mine since christmas.Have replaced everything twice to rule out defective parts,and now just go out every hour to bleed it the conventional way as GM recomends.Like you said get about 50% clutch and then bleed somemore and then have nothing next time around.This thing is the biggest PITA and about to get an auto.GM really screwed this up on such a simple system.My Jeep take about 5 pumps and viola.
 
I have a friend that had the exact same problem. We put on new everything and I mean everything in the Autozone catalog. Bleed the stupid thing all day in much the same way as you. Several sources said we would have to get it "pressure bleed". Took it to a local mechanics shop they fixed us up and had us out the door with a $40 dollar bill. He gladly paid. Now the pedal is perfect.
Hope this helps. I just wish we knew it took special equipment before we spent all day on it and lost our temper a few times.
 
You must block the clutch fork from moving in order to bleed the slave cylinder.
 
That is correct, but if you remove the slave then you need to somehow keep the piston from moving while you bleed it. Trust me on this, i've helped many people bleed these systems that are having the troubles you guys are having.
 
That's the problem, the piston needs to be retracted not extended in order to bleed the system.
 
I always use a vacuum bleeder and suck the fluid up from the slave through the master into the resivoir and have never had to spend more than 45 minutes doing it......
 
chris12 said:
Once the slave is unbolted and held at a 45 degree angle the piston because of the spring pressure in the slave becomes fully extended and has no way of travel unless you manually push it back in.
Click to expand...

x2 unless he is trying to say we need to push the pistion back in to the slave 3/4 to 7/8 and then hold it there. i think this might be a idea to try as it will let pressure build up faster and move more fluid out in the down travel of the pedel.

but i could be wrong. please tell us more on this idea.
 
Just bolt the slave back into the truck and use a block of wood to stop the clutch fork from moving and bleed the damn thing already. :D
 
Just to add confusion, with the slave off so you can get at the bleeder, hold it in the right orientation, crack the bleeder, and push the slave piston inward. Seal the bleeder when fluid comes out, and repeat. I did that maybe 5 times when I put mine (back) in and no problems.

GM didn't screw up on this system, it was used exactly in this manner for 7 years, and not many of us have a problem. One or two out of millions doesn't equal a defect in the system.

I would say it could be the seals in the master or slave, but since there is only one piston in each, (unlike a brake master that can bleed between pistons) if the seal fails, it either leaks into the cab (BTDT) or the slave would leak. I don't believe either cylinder has a "backup" seal, once a piston seal goes, that's it for the cylinder and it leaks.
 
will try in a day or so. truck is at work i am home with warm food now. and need help to blead it. give me a day or so.

and gm books say to unbolt and tilt 45 deg and blead that way. but i will try anything not to have to remove the tranny/tcase or motor for a 4th time.
 
I GOT PEDAL NOW YAAA :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

well today i tryed the diffrent ways i could figure out in the truck to blead it. but it still was 50/50 chance. so i removed the resivor / master / hose / slave all as a unit.

bench blead the heck out of it diffrent ways. gravity / vac on line with slave off / pressure down threw the top at resivor hole / vac up threw resivor hole.

then by chance i swa the problem only after all this he!! . little nipple adaptor on top of master held a air bubble in the top of it. yo could play with the pushrod and watch it move around. what the heck ?

so we fliped the master 180 deg upside down. blead it that way with just the pushrod and bam we got perfect feal and no more air as it had to leave for no more place to hide.

reinstalled the hose to slave and blead it a bit more and reinstalled in truck as a unit. then test drove it for about 15-20 miles in town with lots of shifting. 100% perfect everytime.

WARNING : aftermarket masters could be same problem for all.

and i used some special hose pinch off plyers to keep from lossing fluid or letting air in when no slave was on the line.

long term test now under way. i drove it home tonight. :haha:

i will get pics in the am and show you were the air was traped.
 
Mine did the exact same thing. I could see the air bubble through the fluid in the MC res. When I bled it fom the slave up through the master it got rid of it.
 
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