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hydro help for my work truck . who knows hydro stuff ?

sweetk30

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i have a brand new honda gx390 with a hydro pump on it . was off a new drop deck low boy semi trailer. guy had hydro on the truck so didn't need it . i am looking to use it to drive a hydro motor and spin a 3:1 reduction sprocket setup on a intank mixer system on a driveway sealer tank.

i got the mechanical down but need help picking a control valve for the system . it would be nice to have forward and backward drive on the motor . also when not running be able to move the mixer in the tank for clean out ease with out popping the drive chain off .

what kind of valve should i be looking for ? dealing with 1/2" hoses on the system . need 2 controls . 1 for tank on the truck and 1 for aux ports for the trailers with mixers hooked up on them also. kind of like a farm tractor setup with rear control ports.

pump is a gp-f20-06-p-c and is 2.80 gpm at 1,800 rpm with a .36 displacement per revolution 3,650 psi max.

drive motor is a eaton 101-2036-009 / 74 cm3/Rev / max flow 15gal min / inlet psi max 2500 psi
 
I'm certainly no expert on it, but I think you will want to be looking at loader control valves that offer a float position (to manually rotate your mixer without disengaging your drive chain) and also pass thru ports for your auxiliary hookups.
 
Also, do you just need momentary directional control, or do you need the control to have detents?
 
I believe this might work?


It is friction detent. Open center should allow manual movement? It says that it is power beyond capable by replacing a plug, but I don't know if doing that will retain open center? I'm only knowledgeable enough to be dangerous.
 
yes be nice to have open in middle to move mixer when in tank cleaning out in winter .

prefer 2 lever so rear ports can have there own lever .

needs to be in or out by its self . no holding valve handle . set it and walk away type deal .
 
Ok, so I was under the impression that the rear ports needed to be constant flow, to power an existing valve.

So basically, you need two spools, open center and I'm guessing detents on both levers? Do you need a friction detent to vary speed, or will a full-open type detent do?
 
Also, in the stuff I've done, I prefer to use hoses with female JIC ends. Port sizes and types aren't a big deal because JIC adapters are available for everything and in various sizes. Personally, I'd plumb it with 3/8 hose and -6 ends. It adds some cost up front, but you don't have to deal with npt fittings and adapters and hose instal/replacement is super simple.
 
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