Hydro SM465 clutch replacement

[CyberSniper]

I managed to make my sub-1000 mile clutch go bad. Brand spanking new EVERYTHING except the pedals and bellhousing. I think there is something (probably loam, cat tails, and mud) keeping the pressure plate from applying the clutch.

I tried hosing it out. The clutch still slips so bad that it can barely move the truck in low range second gear.

I suspect it is going to require me to pull the clutch apart.

It took me roughly 6 hours to get my clutch and 465/208 bolted up last time because I couldn't get the 465 to hit the pilot bearing. And this was having the benefit of having no cab or anything on the vehicle. It sucked so bad having those benefits now I'm dreading it to the point where I'm considering saying piss on it and replace it with a 700R4/NP208.

Is it possible to slide the complete 465/208 back and leave them attached then try to slide it back in later or is this going to be nearly impossible? Is it always easier to bolt the bellhousing to the block then try to stick the transmission into the clutch/pilot?

 

[dyeager535]

At least with my setup, the 465 has to come down as it comes back, and the exhaust starts getting in the way, so taking the t-case off is the easiest way to get the tranny so you can maneuver it.

I have a feeling some of this depends on the floor pan of the truck, I had a real bear getting my tranny back in even without the t-case hanging off of it. The pilot bearing/input shaft alignment was real easy, once I could get the trans close enough to go forward with it. There just isn't enough vertical clearance in my case for the trans to be aligned with the motor, and just moved forward. Had to go in at a fairly steep angle, then wiggled around until the shifter tower cleared the hole in the floorpan/everything synched up. Having an extra set of hands is a must IMO, if you don't want to be there for hours.

 

[PhoenixZorn]

I've found things go faster and better the second time around... your 6 hour job will soon be a 3 hour job, and it won't seem so tedious.... good luck....

 

[big83chevy4x4]

whenever ive replace a clutch, i kept the tranny and tcase together. you need two people to do it, but its alot easier and quicker.

funny you say you killed your clutch, what brand did you go with? i filled mine with mud numerous times so bad that i couldn't move the truck, there was no grip at all, didn't even start to turn the motor when trying to bump start it. had it smoke on me once, yet it still lives. i bought the cheap $68 reman from carquest.

 

[CyberSniper]

How did you get the mud out?

I went and got it with my trailer today. When I parked it last night it'd still sort of move. Go there today and actuate the clutch like 20 times before I started it and it kept getting worse. Then I tried the same thing when I started it. It progressively got to the point where when you pressed on the clutch nothing was moving except a clutch fork that didn't move anything.

It's a Perfection diaphragm clutch #MU19091... cost me $150. I've never had a problem with them before.

I think it's just plain packed with mud and crap but I haven't had any luck in getting it out.

The exhaust comes off easy. It's just a Y-pipe hooked to a piece of another pipe hooked to a muffler... and it hasn't been on there very long. I had to cut a giant hole in the floor for the top plate of the transmission to stick through (2wd cab + 2" body lift = still not enough room) so sliding it back 6" isn't too bad, just have to raise the cab up another inch for the top plate of the transmission to slide under.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

i layed under with a hose spraying in any orfice i could get it into. then had someone start it and play with the clutch while i sprayed into it. it usually takes me about a hour or two to get it clean enough to feel safe to drive again.