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hypertech salad bowl power charger question AND tbi spacer and pod spacer install

but why would you want to? TBI's hate hot air, such as an open filter would induce...

I actually should sell the one kicking around the Dungeon somewhere...
 
I dont know, I've heard that. But mine runs strong as h311 with plenty of go:dunno: Been going to build a cold air setup for the burb but it seems fine so I havent. Might have to ramp up my plans a bit:waytogo:

First ones of my odd creation, next 2 are current. Oh yeah, I made the salad bowl too, outta a salad bowl:whistle::haha: $7

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well i got to have fun with the big bad plasma cutter yesterday at my buddys shop.

:whistle:

also had to dent the wingnut area of the top hat down just a bit as this was raised up a tiny bit with the whole new salad bowl spacer.

havent drivin it to much yet to see any real testing time. :dunno: even if i dont feel much i dont care i know more air is getting to the tbi unit un restricted for when it needs it.

next will be new gasket reman kit for tbi and also remove the sides of the 2 bowl on the tbi unit and install hat extra spring i got that looks like higher psi or modify the extra bowl for adjustable. also got my throttle body spacer. gona get some mill time at my buddysshop to blend the 2 ports just like the $$$ cmf spacer guys buy for 90 bucks. got mine for just under 40 shipped. and 30 min my time will mill the 2 ports just like theres. and install the injector pod spacer i got also.

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got a tbi unit reman kit today at napa . then pulled the unit off and tore it all down. was a lot cleaner than i figured it would have been inside. :eek1:

took the body of the tbi and the spacer over to my buddys shop and fired up his mill for around 15 min total time and removed the port walls like the tbi mods say to do . then i hogged out the center of the spacer to make it a half open and half ported spacer like the $$$ units do but i did it for a lot less.

as you can see in the pics i also installed the injector pod spacer in the unit that picked it up a bit over the paper thin unit that the factory used. also the reman kit had a much thicker gasket than stock but the kit said dont use the gasket anymore. and if you did the back air filter rim lip would have to be removed also as the fuel line adaptors would hit.

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over all i was happy with the easy mods and bolt in and go of the spacers and reman kit.

my regulater diaphram was leaking fuel and was ready to be replaced. so that was good. also the fuel pressure spring was rusty and sagged out a bit so i swaped it with the extra like new i had from a part unit i had scrapped out.

then bolted it on the truck not to bad a job. no throttle bracket mods needed for mine as i run th400 so no cable to tranny to adjust and throttle clipped on and no binds.

then primed the system few times no leaks so fired off real easy and had bit of funny idle for a bit. took it for a small test drive and warm up as its 32-33* out today here. i think there is a bit more tourqe and throttle responce. didnt seem to have to work as hard on full throttle take off or speed ups.

then the idle seems to be a lot better now and much smoother also . engine vac seems to be about the same no major changes there. i got my eye on a eletric fuel pressure gauge and want to swap in better filter and install gauge at same time to watch the psi to see how it does.

will try and drive it a bit more and report back from there.

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I just rebuilt my TBI as well. Engine would sporadically cut-off, and starting it was a pain in the butt. Discovered my pressure regulator spring was broken in 2 places. Replaced the spring yesterday, and it's never run better.

But... I also purchased the CFM-Tech AFPR and Gauge Adapter with 0-15 PSI Gauge. The Gauge Adapter fits into the TBI just fine, but the hard fuel lines are routed in such a way that their current bends will not allow the extra inch which is added by the adapter to mate with the adapter. I could bend the fuel lines some to "make" it fit, but I don't think slightly bending a 24 year old hard line is a good idea, as with my luck I'll either snap the line or crimp it. So... basically I have a brand new AFPR, Gauge, and Gauge Adapter that I can't install right now. Let me know if that makes sense at all. I could snap a photo later.

Any ideas how to fix this, and Sweetk30 I'm interested to see the outcome you get.
 
it's because the line is bolted to the back of the head... if you unbolt it, it's easy to install.. then either just ziptie the back of the line, or rebolt it, tweeking it... it bends easy enough...
 
ryoken said:
bump the pressure, you'll be amazed...
Click to expand...

sweetk30 said:
got to get base line first. need gauge for that. :D
Click to expand...
GM says pressure between 9 and 13PSI. But I have never seen a stock engine run great unless it was 13PSI, if I find one not at 13PSI I usually find a problem. Yes they will run lower but never as well. Built engines usually need more fuel so you can up the pressure to make sure you have enough at WOT High RPM... if you run out of fuel there results can be melted engine or enough knock to break a piston.

Bumping pressure can help even a stock engine but if you look at BLMs you'll see most are now rich, so really bumping pressure also needs to adjust tune.

Also look for the thread where Dave gave away a small block performance timing table and use it, big difference. I put it in a stock motor and expected to find knock counts but there was none.

WARNING: Whenever you make changes to an engine you should always be able to record data and make sure your running close to BLM 128. Running lean can cause major meltdown of engine!!!

The EFI engines covered by this forum are easy to learn to tune. Get your VE correct by recording data and adjusting VE so recorded data is close to 128.

Then PE (Power Enrichment) is based off those settings.

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:confused: ah most of that was greek to me.

can i get most of this data from a snap-on mt2500 scanner ? i got one. if not guess time for a cheep laptop and aldl cable. :doah:
 
Yes you can get all the data from a ScanTool.

But to tune the chip you would need software like TunerPro RT to record data like BLM (Block Learn Mode) make adjustments to bin (chip) VE (Volumetric Efficiecy) table then burn a new one...with a Moates Burn 2, Moates AutoProm are the best supported. But that's another subject...
 
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