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CK5
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I finally have a Diesel suburban
- Thread starter KirsL
- Start date
So instead of jamming up the stepside build page. Figure I start one for the burb.
When I get more time today I list out my plans and such for it.
Update.
Couple list of things I have/need to do. Want to do.
And don't need to but would be really nice to do.
Check brakes. Stops, pedal goes almost to the floor. Rears will lock up in dirt.
Check front-end, pulls hard to left.
Oil cooler lines.
Balancer.
Battery cables.
Remote pmd.
Lift pump relay.
Windshield. Rust above windshield.
Driver door lock. Locks not working with button.
2nd barn door latch.
Deep clean interior.
Low coolant light, possibly coolant bottle leak.
Hvac switches.
Hydro-boost lines.
Check all fluids, belt and hoses.
Scan tool.
Need to do soon:
Injectors:
Glow plugs.
Fan and fan clutch.
Spin style on waterpump.
Timing gears.
Power Master starter.
Fass, sump or draw straw.
Sumped/baffled fuel tank.
Gauges. Banks?
Stereo with Sirius.
Tires.
Brake controller and plug.
Seat cushion.
Test 4x4
Door lock remote
High idle switch
Air horns.
Rear air bags.
Performance:
S54 or s60.
Full exhaust.
Tuned.
Upper intake.
Dual alternators.
Vacuum pump delete.
When I get more time today I list out my plans and such for it.
Update.
Couple list of things I have/need to do. Want to do.
And don't need to but would be really nice to do.
Check brakes. Stops, pedal goes almost to the floor. Rears will lock up in dirt.
Check front-end, pulls hard to left.
Oil cooler lines.
Balancer.
Battery cables.
Remote pmd.
Lift pump relay.
Windshield. Rust above windshield.
Driver door lock. Locks not working with button.
2nd barn door latch.
Deep clean interior.
Low coolant light, possibly coolant bottle leak.
Hvac switches.
Hydro-boost lines.
Check all fluids, belt and hoses.
Scan tool.
Need to do soon:
Injectors:
Glow plugs.
Fan and fan clutch.
Spin style on waterpump.
Timing gears.
Power Master starter.
Fass, sump or draw straw.
Sumped/baffled fuel tank.
Gauges. Banks?
Stereo with Sirius.
Tires.
Brake controller and plug.
Seat cushion.
Test 4x4
Door lock remote
High idle switch
Air horns.
Rear air bags.
Performance:
S54 or s60.
Full exhaust.
Tuned.
Upper intake.
Dual alternators.
Vacuum pump delete.
Last edited:
2wd or 4wd?
that is a bucket list vehicle for me, and one of the only ones I would take over the 4wd version of my current 2wd tundra
that is a bucket list vehicle for me, and one of the only ones I would take over the 4wd version of my current 2wd tundra
4wd.
Definitely always been a bucket list item for me, too.
Definitely always been a bucket list item for me, too.
So being a used truck, there are things to fix. Per my list in the first post.
Now my girlfriend had only seen pictures of the truck. So on her way home from work on Friday, she stopped by to check it out. I was planning to move the truck inside, was stupid cold yesterday and today.
I had to move the truck around the building, we both get in. Go to start it and clunk. 2nd try, clunk. Ok this sucks.
I'm not climbing under the truck in 15°f weather with 40mph winds. Forklift it is
, pushed inside with ease.
No start situation. Check the basics and found the trigger wire to the solenoid had come loose from a previous repaired connection.
Quick and easy fix. Tested and works. Batteries were very weak. Quick load test showed they were pretty much dead. 10 volts each under load. $390 for 2 Batteries at napa!
While fixing the wire I found the starter support brace is missing. But oh it gets better! The bolt that holds the brace to the block was broken off.
No choice but to fix it. Ground it flat. Drill it out and installed a heli-coil made for a 5/16 bolt.
Underbody light and right angle drill for the win. That and cutting the drill bits down to be short enough to fit in the available space.
This was fun to tap. But I have tap socket adapters, which it made it so much easier.
And yes, I used the drill to drive the heli-coil in and break off the tab.
I made a short drive tool out of a cut drill bit. Worked very well.
And fixed.
Now to buy or make a new bracket.
I had planned to check the brakes, since it pulls bad. We'll, it's getting new pads and rotors.
Not what I planned, but was a productive day.
Now my girlfriend had only seen pictures of the truck. So on her way home from work on Friday, she stopped by to check it out. I was planning to move the truck inside, was stupid cold yesterday and today.
I had to move the truck around the building, we both get in. Go to start it and clunk. 2nd try, clunk. Ok this sucks.
I'm not climbing under the truck in 15°f weather with 40mph winds. Forklift it is
, pushed inside with ease.No start situation. Check the basics and found the trigger wire to the solenoid had come loose from a previous repaired connection.
Quick and easy fix. Tested and works. Batteries were very weak. Quick load test showed they were pretty much dead. 10 volts each under load. $390 for 2 Batteries at napa!
While fixing the wire I found the starter support brace is missing. But oh it gets better! The bolt that holds the brace to the block was broken off.
No choice but to fix it. Ground it flat. Drill it out and installed a heli-coil made for a 5/16 bolt.
Underbody light and right angle drill for the win. That and cutting the drill bits down to be short enough to fit in the available space.
This was fun to tap. But I have tap socket adapters, which it made it so much easier.
And yes, I used the drill to drive the heli-coil in and break off the tab.
I made a short drive tool out of a cut drill bit. Worked very well.
And fixed.
Now to buy or make a new bracket.
I had planned to check the brakes, since it pulls bad. We'll, it's getting new pads and rotors.
Not what I planned, but was a productive day.
More forward progress. Truck needed front pads and rotors. And since GM made the wheel studs go through the rotor into the hub. Those got replaced as well.
Got a pile of other parts in. New oil cooler, lift pump relay harness, new bigger battery cables.
Also got in registered and insured, so I'm hoping to be driving in the next week or so.
Takes me a while since I only have 1 or 2 days I can work on it.
Got a pile of other parts in. New oil cooler, lift pump relay harness, new bigger battery cables.
Also got in registered and insured, so I'm hoping to be driving in the next week or so.
Takes me a while since I only have 1 or 2 days I can work on it.
Now you can swap a manual in the stepside 
It's tempting for sure.Now you can swap a manual in the stepside
I've also had the crazy idea of 6L80 swapping the burb and then putting the 4L80 from it into the stepside.
Manual swap both!
Martin
Martin
They did. Pretty sure I saw one for sale a while back.
I saw a 98 or 99 with the big block that someone had swapped in a 5spd.
Either way, the burb is staying an auto for sure. Just easier and makes it simpler for my girlfriend to drive it.
Either way, the burb is staying an auto for sure. Just easier and makes it simpler for my girlfriend to drive it.
Yep definitely a good one to keep an auto.
Moving along with maintenance items.
Truck was very slow cranking the other day. A quick load test showed the batteries were pretty much shot. Easy but expensive fix, $390 for a pair from Napa! And that's after turning in the cores!
The battery cables themselves are well, interesting. Old truck with high miles, they've been replaced before. Ok, no biggie. Th PO made up some kinda hudge podge of shit. So new were in order. I really wanted to get a kit from the company I got the new cables for my Dodge from, https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/ super high quality and very well thought out. Well they don't have a kit. They can custom make each cable. I saw that Quadstar had a kit. Ok, I'll get that.
I should of taken the time to measure and order the custom ones.
The kit I got is ok, but not great. Does it work better than what was there, absolutely. Am I probably knit-picking, maybe. But I have standard and if I buy a complete kit, it should be as such. I made it work and it'll be fine. But it will get swapped out eventually.
Ordered a new harmonic balancer and crank pulley. As a bad balancer on theses engines will kill them quickly. Nothing special, just standard replacements.
Couple things that I have noticed.
Interior lights only come on it I turn them on via the switch on the dash. They don't work when opening any of the doors. The override button I'm thinking failed in the off position.
None of the overhead map lights work, could be a fuse. Have to dig into that a bit.
Testing all hvac functions, front is stuck in defrost and no engagement of the ac compressor. Rear fan works as it should.
Just waiting for some parts now to come in.
Pictures at the end because I'm being lazy.
Truck was very slow cranking the other day. A quick load test showed the batteries were pretty much shot. Easy but expensive fix, $390 for a pair from Napa! And that's after turning in the cores!
The battery cables themselves are well, interesting. Old truck with high miles, they've been replaced before. Ok, no biggie. Th PO made up some kinda hudge podge of shit. So new were in order. I really wanted to get a kit from the company I got the new cables for my Dodge from, https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/ super high quality and very well thought out. Well they don't have a kit. They can custom make each cable. I saw that Quadstar had a kit. Ok, I'll get that.
I should of taken the time to measure and order the custom ones.
The kit I got is ok, but not great. Does it work better than what was there, absolutely. Am I probably knit-picking, maybe. But I have standard and if I buy a complete kit, it should be as such. I made it work and it'll be fine. But it will get swapped out eventually.
Ordered a new harmonic balancer and crank pulley. As a bad balancer on theses engines will kill them quickly. Nothing special, just standard replacements.
Couple things that I have noticed.
Interior lights only come on it I turn them on via the switch on the dash. They don't work when opening any of the doors. The override button I'm thinking failed in the off position.
None of the overhead map lights work, could be a fuse. Have to dig into that a bit.
Testing all hvac functions, front is stuck in defrost and no engagement of the ac compressor. Rear fan works as it should.
Just waiting for some parts now to come in.
Pictures at the end because I'm being lazy.
Got more done. New belt, tensioner, fan clutch, balancer and pulley.
While I was installing the new belt. I noticed a mark near the threaded ear on the coolant crossover.
Yep, it's cracked. Currently it's fine. But if I were to try and remove that bolt. The ear will snap right off. A new one will be needed at some point. A quick search shows they are not cheap at all.
I think I might have a spare floating around. Just have to find it.
Change out the oil cooler next weekend and drive it. Front u-joint in the stepside is making a bit of noise in reverse at full lock. So that needs to be handled sooner then later.
While I was installing the new belt. I noticed a mark near the threaded ear on the coolant crossover.
Yep, it's cracked. Currently it's fine. But if I were to try and remove that bolt. The ear will snap right off. A new one will be needed at some point. A quick search shows they are not cheap at all.
I think I might have a spare floating around. Just have to find it.
Change out the oil cooler next weekend and drive it. Front u-joint in the stepside is making a bit of noise in reverse at full lock. So that needs to be handled sooner then later.
Tackled the oil cooler today. Was a typical snowball. The 6.5 with 4x4 has a 90° adapter for the oil filter. Well to get to the block side of the oil cooler lines. You have remove the filter adapter, ok. I grab the driveshaft to turn it and a feel, see, and hear a loud clunk. U-joint at the t-case is wiped. Ok, no biggie. New u-joints are never a bad thing.
View attachment 20230303_174717.mp4
I pop the bolts/caps on the yokes out and the shaft won't collapse. The slip is seized. Well I still need to get it out. The old air cut-off tool to the rescue. That tool has come in handy many times over the years.
I tried moving the slip once it was out of the truck. It's basically welded in place. So truck will be 2wd only for a bit.
Stock GM oil cooler lines are a bitch to remove. Least these where. Fought me for a good bit until I finally got them out.
Figuring I would save time and buy a kit for the cooler replacement. The one I got is nice. Comes with fittings for both cooler port sizes. The o-rings for the filter adapter. My biggest gripe with the kit, the lines being hydraulic line are very stiff. But that's the tradeoff for a pretty strong line.
Couple things I would have done differently if I had made my own kit. But for the time I saved not looking for and making fit, this was worth it.
Have to put the grill back on but a couple clips broke off. Going to have my paint guy glue them back together.
View attachment 20230303_174717.mp4
I pop the bolts/caps on the yokes out and the shaft won't collapse. The slip is seized. Well I still need to get it out. The old air cut-off tool to the rescue. That tool has come in handy many times over the years.
I tried moving the slip once it was out of the truck. It's basically welded in place. So truck will be 2wd only for a bit.
Stock GM oil cooler lines are a bitch to remove. Least these where. Fought me for a good bit until I finally got them out.
Figuring I would save time and buy a kit for the cooler replacement. The one I got is nice. Comes with fittings for both cooler port sizes. The o-rings for the filter adapter. My biggest gripe with the kit, the lines being hydraulic line are very stiff. But that's the tradeoff for a pretty strong line.
Couple things I would have done differently if I had made my own kit. But for the time I saved not looking for and making fit, this was worth it.
Have to put the grill back on but a couple clips broke off. Going to have my paint guy glue them back together.
Truck got put into service over the weekend. Her car needed rear brakes. So we left her car at the shop and brought the burb home, my girlfriend was driving.
She had work Saturday, so I go to start the truck for her and find a little puddle on the driver floor mat, not good.
I had seen a touch of rust above the windshield but it seemed to be just the surface.
Since the glass was cracked 90% the way across it. I had our glass guy pull it. Seals were completely shot. Which resulted in this.
I’ll clean it up tomorrow. But it seems pretty solid underneath. Either way, it’ll get a decent fix and new glass put in.
Wrapped up for the evening.
I know what I’m doing this weekend.
She had work Saturday, so I go to start the truck for her and find a little puddle on the driver floor mat, not good.
I had seen a touch of rust above the windshield but it seemed to be just the surface.
Since the glass was cracked 90% the way across it. I had our glass guy pull it. Seals were completely shot. Which resulted in this.
I’ll clean it up tomorrow. But it seems pretty solid underneath. Either way, it’ll get a decent fix and new glass put in.
Wrapped up for the evening.
I know what I’m doing this weekend.
I need to do this on my '99 F350. It's got a bit of rust showing at the top of the windshield and it leaks when raining or snowing. Bad part is the '99 Super Duties leak right on the fuse panel and GEM module and do funky electrical shit.
That definitely sucks. Nothing worse then electrial issues.
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