CK5
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I found a Dana 60

Hmm...I guess I will look to see what kind of condition everything is in. I can probably get the paint for the R&P at my local speed shop.
 
So I ordered a DVD about rebuilding differentials from learningbydvd.com and that thing is freaking sweet! The problem is I think I am going to end up spending twice as much on parts and tools as I did on the axle to get it the way I want it. I guess I will start saving.

One question I have is: Is a Detroit the way to go or could I go for a cheaper locker? I figure for as long a I plan on keeping this axle it would be a good idea to spend the extra money for the Detroit.
 
So I ordered a DVD about rebuilding differentials from learningbydvd.com and that thing is freaking sweet! The problem is I think I am going to end up spending twice as much on parts and tools as I did on the axle to get it the way I want it. I guess I will start saving.

One question I have is: Is a Detroit the way to go or could I go for a cheaper locker? I figure for as long a I plan on keeping this axle it would be a good idea to spend the extra money for the Detroit.

I have a Detroit in the front of mine, if I had to do it again I would probably get a Lock-rite.

The D60 Lock-rites seem to hold up just as well as the Detroits and they are a couple hundred bucks cheaper.
 
I have a Detroit in the front of mine, if I had to do it again I would probably get a Lock-rite.

The D60 Lock-rites seem to hold up just as well as the Detroits and they are a couple hundred bucks cheaper.

And performance wise they are exactly the same right? I may go that route to save a few.:bow:
 
And performance wise they are exactly the same right? I may go that route to save a few.:bow:

Well, the Detroit is a bit more sophisticated and has a stronger case but the Lock-Right costs ~$300 and the Detroit costs ~$500.

No complaints with my Detroit but I've seen D60 Lock-rights hold up to similar abuse with no failures.
 
I've seen a D60 lockright failure. BadDog at BB '03. Sure put a kink in his trip, nevermind the cost of stepping up to a Detroit while there. I was considering one until then...now I'll hold out for a Detroit or possibly an ARB.

Rene
 
ya hold out for a detroit dude might as well its worth the extra $$$ myself im going ARB because i like the ability to lock and unlock the front end when i do front end digs but detroit for sure i run a lockrite in my 14bolt though and it works amazing as well
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but if he goes with a Lock Rite, he'll need a new carrier right? He has a 4.10 carrier and 4.56 gears right?

I'm not knocking the Lock Rite at all, I put one in my (unfinished) D60. If you have the stock outers you will brake those before you brake a Lock Rite.
 
Yeah I belive it is a 4.56 carrier. I just found out I owe $6975 for taxes last year (which is better than what I was planning on), and I hired a new guy today who is going to start Monday. So I have about $4000 worth of parts and equipment I have to stock him up with. I may wait a bit to buy anything else for the K5. I need to address the NP208 soon because it won't even go into 2wd and I can't get it to say in 4LO while in reverse. It is making an awful racket and most likey need replacement. I found a guy that has one but he has a standing offer that is twice as high as mine. He said if he doesn't sell it to him then it is mine for $100. I don't want to spend the money on it because I am looking for a np205 for my doubler but I don't want to not wheel because of a lack of decent priced 205s in the area.
 
80 1 ton would be a np 205. you need the the 205 with the 32 female input to mate with your turbo 400. Its the strogest input gear anyway and if you want to make a 203/205 double you are ready to go and just have to buy a kit ord. I was also wondering is a gm dana 60 a bolt in in a 1/2 ton or do i need to change the perches?
Have a 74 blazer with 1/2 running gear. all ready have a 14bff out of a 3/4 suburban
Robert
 
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