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i got some questions that have been bugging me to get answered

big83chevy4x4

big83chevy4x4

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ok first about the coil over shocks, what kinda ajustment do they have for the shock part. im very familar with a dirt bike suspention where it has low and high speed controls. is it similar to this or is it just one setting.

im kinda thinking about building a buggy for the dunes and can get the front forks from a bike cheap


also on hydro assist, would it be posible to use a angle ram from a plow for this. seems like it should work, but maybe its too big. would like to here your opinion on this

thanks TJ
 
The problem I seem to be running into with the local hydraulic shop is the spherical rod ends required to allow movement. By the time I get his ram and hoses, it's almost cheaper to call Matt at WTO and buy his setup, which is probably what I'll end up doing.

On the coilovers I have no idea. I haven't researched that at all as I've got enough problems with a fairly stock rig, attempting a mod like that would be hilarious to put it mildly. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
Typically, quality (FOX, King, Sway-A-Away, Bilstein) Coilover Shocks do not offer external dampening adjustment. Changes in compression and rebound dampening are made internally by changing the configuration of the valve shim stacks.
 
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also on hydro assist, would it be posible to use a angle ram from a plow for this. seems like it should work, but maybe its too big. would like to here your opinion on this

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All the angle cylinders i have seen were single acting, so youd have assist one way, but youd have even more drag the other.
 
now that i think about it on my plow they are single acting also. i thought i say one at the parts store that was dual but maybe im wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Well, as you know, you've usually got three settings on an average ATV/dirtbike shock. Compression dampening, rebound dampening, and preload (sag). For some reason, these nifty things haven't really made it into the bigger vehicle world. They still require you to pull them apart and stick new flow-limiting discs in them to change dampening.

You'd have to run a hell of a high nitrogen charge in even the biggest fork tubes in order to slow down a 1000lb butt of a sandrail. I remember when a 32mm fork was a big fork but they're up to nearly 2" fork tubes now, right? I'm kind of obsolete. Anyway, I think you'd need at least two forks per rear wheel plus you'd have to run coils (or I suppose you could do torsion bars).


You need a dual acting cylinder for hydraulic steering. You can buy them starting at $60 and spend as much as $400 for one designed for steering a front end loader and is stronger than the "jaws of life". I'd probably run a clevis end on the axle and a spherical end on the rod.
 
Plow rams are single action. You will need a ram thats dual action. I was thinking about finding ram specs and going to a "fork lift" salvage yard and see If I can find a good used with same specs. To save a little dough.
 
As long as the shafts and bore are clean, there rebuildable. You can get seal kits cheap with teflon seals and rebuild yourself for 1/4 the cost of new!
 
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As long as the shafts and bore are clean, there rebuildable. You can get seal kits cheap with teflon seals and rebuild yourself for 1/4 the cost of new!

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By the time you get a good name brand cylinder and put rod ends on both ends, the WTO setup looks like a great deal.
 
yeah, your right. I forgot the rod ends. The fork lift rams have plates with holes on the end, but no spherical joint.
 
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