I gotsta git me a new drive shaft. Any ideas on where I might find one?

[78 GMC Jimmy]

78 K5 - rear drive shaft is in bad shape.

Where can I get a good replacement for cheap? I don't want to spend $400 to re-tube the dang thing.

 

[fastazz81]

@kennyw

 

[kennyw]

Best source I have found is Tom Woods for a new driveline but that is priced in the range you are wanting to avoid.

I don't think I'd have one available but I would start looking on Facebook marketplace or local Facebook groups if you want a used part at a cheaper price point. Post some want ads here as well.

 

[Wes Harden]

supply dimensions and application. length t case attachment slip, yoke, or flange, u join size.

 

[78 GMC Jimmy]

Best source I have found is Tom Woods for a new driveline but that is priced in the range you are wanting to avoid.

I don't think I'd have one available but I would start looking on Facebook marketplace or local Facebook groups if you want a used part at a cheaper price point. Post some want ads here as well.

Can I post ads here without a paid account?

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

Is the truck lifted or going to be lifted?

 

[78 GMC Jimmy]

Yep. Lifted. Not sure how high. 4 or 6 ?

 

[Blue85]

If the one you have is stock, then you can get another like it (eventually) from a salvage yard or eBay. If you're in a hurry, grab your calipers and good measurements of what you need and hit up wrecking yards that pile driveshafts up.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

If it's a fixed rear yoke on your tcase swap in a super duty front shaft, the cv helps with vibrations

 

[tarussell]

Still haven’t revealed the details that matter as to what kind and how long the rear shaft assembly is in your truck???
By your user name let’s assume you’re working with a K-5 Blazer and another assumption will be that it has the original drivetrain still in it.
You will need to tell/ask potential sellers if yours is from a TH350/NP-203 automatic transmission and transfer case combo or a manual transmission and part time case combo.
The later rear shaft will be a little longer in length than the former mentioned setup and both shafts in 1978 should be of a two-piece slip yoke design with 1310 yokes.

Your search will go a lot easier if you have this information ready - if components have been modified or swapped out then we will need a few good pics of your drivetrain to help identify what ya got.

 

[78 GMC Jimmy]

 

[tarussell]

OK, this reveals very important things - you have a NP-205 transfer case and a rear 14-Bolt full-floater axle and appears to be a 1350 series U-Jointed driveshaft and yokes.
If you would have just went off of parts for a stock Blazer that would have been a little bit of a headache for you.

One option that might work for you is get a 1350 shaft out of a 3/4-Ton truck and have it cut down and shortened ( which is what happened to the shaft that you currently have now ) to fit your ride - this would only cost you labor and balancing fees.

 

[78 GMC Jimmy]

OK, this reveals very important things - you have a NP-205 transfer case and a rear 14-Bolt full-floater axle and appears to be a 1350 series U-Jointed driveshaft and yokes.
If you would have just went off of parts for a stock Blazer that would have been a little bit of a headache for you.

One option that might work for you is get a 1350 shaft out of a 3/4-Ton truck and have it cut down and shortened ( which is what happened to the shaft that you currently have now ) to fit your ride - this would only cost you labor and balancing fees.

Thanks for the info. I thought it was probably a MP-205 but was not sure. For the rear end, I thought it was a 14 bolt semi-float. That's cool that its a full floater. As for the drive shaft, I don't think I can find one. Don't know what a 1350 series U-joint whatcha-ma-call-it is. Can you sell me one?

 

[tarussell]

The U-joint general numbering system ( I.e. 1310, 1330, 1350, 1410 etc ) is a way of grouping certain physical sizes and capabilities together - kind of like small, medium, large and extra-large pizzas.
The 1350 series u-joints in your shaft are a very good size and well matched to the NP-205 and 10.5” 14-Bolt F/F that you have - that size is very common for that vintage truck in 3/4 & 1-Ton rear shafts.

As for if I have a shaft for sale I’m sorry to say that I do not - but it should be fairly common to find one that can be shortened close to you so you can avoid shipping costs.
These are common rear shaft sizes in that era of trucks. You may find one that is a different tube diameter but has the same dimension u-joints that will work for you.
Now that you know what you have and know that you will need to get the donor shaft shortened ( all of the heavier duty trucks come with a longer rear shaft than a Blazer does ) you may want to try @kennyw again since he is up near you.
He has a LOT of parts and is very knowledgeable good guy and will understand the type of shaft that you need - just keep in mind that you will need to have it shortened and balanced once you get it.

Hope this works out for ya’ !

 

[78 GMC Jimmy]

Good good info about the parts - thanks.

As for: @kennyw

How do I contact him?

 

[Wes Harden]

Best source I have found is Tom Woods for a new driveline but that is priced in the range you are wanting to avoid.

I don't think I'd have one available but I would start looking on Facebook marketplace or local Facebook groups if you want a used part at a cheaper price point. Post some want ads here as well.

Already replied to this thread

 

[78 GMC Jimmy]

Oh. Can you sell me the drive shaft?

 

[tarussell]

You could direct message him but you might need to be a paid member to do that - I don’t know all the ins-n-outs of all the rules and benefits of membership but it’s worth it for how little it costs.

This group of folks absolutely knows these square body style trucks backwards and forwards . While you will find so many other Chevy truck websites throwing out misinformation on every topic and falsely believing that it’s the gospel truth.

KENNYW usually has many posts in the classified sections if ya’ want to see a lot of the stuff he puts out there for sale from time to time.

 

[kennyw]

Good good info about the parts - thanks.

As for: @kennyw

How do I contact him?

Technically, you already have since someone tagged me but specifics should move to PM so you don't violate the forum rules. I am an hour from Seattle on highway 2 and can take a look at what I have this weekend.

The local wrecking yards with squarebody parts would be Budget truck wrecking in Auburn, Braven Auto and Metals in Lake Stevens, or Pick n Pull in Arlington.

You will have a Spicer 1350 joint at the rear axle as that was what came with it from the factory. You could have Spicer 1310 or 1350 at the Tcase depending on where parts came from. I would measure the two u-joints to verify if they are the same or if the front is smaller, either measuring width across or diameter of the cap. If they both match, then the 3/4 ton shaft that you shorten and balance will probably run you around $200 by the time you finish not counting new u-joints.

 

[78 GMC Jimmy]

Technically, you already have since someone tagged me but specifics should move to PM so you don't violate the forum rules. I am an hour from Seattle on highway 2 and can take a look at what I have this weekend.

The local wrecking yards with squarebody parts would be Budget truck wrecking in Auburn, Braven Auto and Metals in Lake Stevens, or Pick n Pull in Arlington.

You will have a Spicer 1350 joint at the rear axle as that was what came with it from the factory. You could have Spicer 1310 or 1350 at the Tcase depending on where parts came from. I would measure the two u-joints to verify if they are the same or if the front is smaller, either measuring width across or diameter of the cap. If they both match, then the 3/4 ton shaft that you shorten and balance will probably run you around $200 by the time you finish not counting new u-joints.

I'm in Stanwood. Can you come take a look at it? I can pay you for your time.