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I hate when Sh%^ happens when workin on the truck

mattman4x4

mattman4x4

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Well my master cylinder was leaking. So I ordered a new one and started changing it out. The master cylinder bolts were froze up pretty good, so PB blaster was called for. They finally loosened up after three days of soaking. They came off pretty easy. Now I start on the brake lines. comes off pretty easy. The other "turned" and snap.

pic before
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/mattb3901/73 chevy/DSCN1830.jpg


after:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/mattb3901/73 chevy/DSCN1996.jpg
 
you can re-flare that tube and it should be ok

autozone has a "double-flare" tool they rent to do the job, just need to pick up the nut needed (measure tube size, measure master cylinder size as there are MANY combinations)

they might know it as "inverted flare", "double flare" or "tube nuts" ... if they look at you funny, just ask to see their brake fittings box and find the one you want
 
As Mechted says, it might be fixable... though unbending the tube enough to get an end on it would be fun,.

Of more interest is the box that was on the master in line with the forward brake line ... tain't factory that I know of, so what it is?

-- A
 
nope. fluid has to move into and out of the MC in order for the brakes to work properly... if it was a check valve, you would apply the brakes, then they would not release, ever.

it is probably just an adapter for some reason or another.
 
mechted said:
nope. fluid has to move into and out of the MC in order for the brakes to work properly... if it was a check valve, you would apply the brakes, then they would not release, ever.

it is probably just an adapter for some reason or another.
Click to expand...

Well, there are some that keep a minimum of pressure on the brakes, specifically for disc brakes in older systems designed for drums. I've seen them used on hotrods, that sort of things. Residual valves, they call 'em.

IIRC, in theory the combination valve on our trucks -- besides being a proportioning valve for front-to-rear -- is supposed to do this.

::shrug::

-- A
 
I have a new set of the MC - proportioning valve brake lines for sale... :deal: stainless steal too!
 
don't mean to steal the thread, but while we're on the topic, does anyone know of any type of valve that could be installed inline on say... the front brake line, in order to be albe to remotely mechanically open and close the valve?
 
GM4wheeling said:
don't mean to steal the thread, but while we're on the topic, does anyone know of any type of valve that could be installed inline on say... the front brake line, in order to be albe to remotely mechanically open and close the valve?
Click to expand...
Line-loc?:confused:
 
Yes thats a good idea, but given the condition of the line I may just fab a new one. I am not sure of the age and brittleness of the lines.
 
dremu said:
Well, there are some that keep a minimum of pressure on the brakes, specifically for disc brakes in older systems designed for drums. I've seen them used on hotrods, that sort of things. Residual valves, they call 'em.

IIRC, in theory the combination valve on our trucks -- besides being a proportioning valve for front-to-rear -- is supposed to do this.

::shrug::

-- A
Click to expand...

I agree its probably a residual pressure fitting. The question is do I need it?

According to my two service manuals (73 and 78) I do not need it....so why the heck is it there?
 
dremu said:
Eh? Only if you're reusing a brake controller i.e. a thing that goes under your dash for towing a trailer with trailer brakes.

-- A
Click to expand...

O.k. now I am really confused. Why would towing breaks need a residual presser fitting?
 
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