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I have Rattle Can Paint Job Questions...

BloodMoon

BloodMoon

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I tried to look around the internet for an answer to my questions but could not locate one... so here it goes...

I want to get my truck all one color (probably tan- I am thinking Krylon), my truck has rust that I will sand down and patch/replace and the stuff that I don't get rid of will get sprayed with a converter or maybe that "rust converting primer" stuff...

Anyway, my questions are:

1. Does the Krylon ultra flat camo rattle cans require a primer/previous paint over bare metal so it does not rust through again? or is that spray paint over bare metal going to be fine?

2. If I need to primer the truck before Krylon what rattle can primer should I use that will protect the truck from rusting again and will allow the krylon to be painted on top?

Thank you all again!
 
yes prime w/ zinc primer...light coat, then more uniform coverage coat prior to paint
your metal must be completely free of rust, sandblasting is best...there have been mixed results using the encapsulator type convertors....my experience is do not waste your time.

seam seal all of your repairs so no moisture can penetrate the seam or rust will prevail again, its just a matter of time....you have to realize that any place that the metal is not properly prepped (completely clean of rust and contaminants) and protected (zinc primer followed by a Catalyst type topcoat is my preference) you will have a reoccuring issue with rust...it is inevitable.

The primer around here is referred to as Ryoken Green....made by Moeller paints and a link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moeller-Gre...ar&vxp=mtr&hash=item5662129d56#ht_2658wt_1017
 
Can you find an oil based Rustolium color you like? I'd rather roll on some oil than spray some cans.
 
76zimmer said:
yes prime w/ zinc primer...light coat, then more uniform coverage coat prior to paint
your metal must be completely free of rust, sandblasting is best...there have been mixed results using the encapsulator type convertors....my experience is do not waste your time.

seam seal all of your repairs so no moisture can penetrate the seam or rust will prevail again, its just a matter of time....you have to realize that any place that the metal is not properly prepped (completely clean of rust and contaminants) and protected (zinc primer followed by a Catalyst type topcoat is my preference) you will have a reoccuring issue with rust...it is inevitable.

The primer around here is referred to as Ryoken Green....made by Moeller paints and a link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moeller-Gre...ar&vxp=mtr&hash=item5662129d56#ht_2658wt_1017
Click to expand...

Oh yes, Ryoken green, I have heard of this stuff and I do recall him saying a while back: "I will one day convert everyone on here to it"...

Guy does some great work!

I will look into the method you mentioned. Thank you!

Does the 3m panel adhesive work as a seam sealer too?

K85 Octane said:
Can you find an oil based Rustolium color you like? I'd rather roll on some oil than spray some cans.
Click to expand...

If I use Rustolium; will I still need primer? I think I read somewhere that Rusto can be painted directly over rust? (I will sand down what I can though)

I was planning the sand color but it is a gloss... Is there a way that I can remove the shine?
 
I don't know about the shine. When I did my truck, I just sprayed the bare metal spots, let dry, then applied two coats of oil Rusto. Two coats covered well enough, if you want to wet sand and buff, start on the 3rd coat and continue through the 5th or 6th.
 
K85 Octane said:
Can you find an oil based Rustolium color you like? I'd rather roll on some oil than spray some cans.
Click to expand...

After 20 cans of Rusto spray bomb I got brave and tried the roll on with foam rollers. :waytogo: 8 hours after my "omigod I ROONED it" moment the lines had layed down and I had a beautiful shiny finish complete with orange peel. I'm sure if (when) I had gone further and wet sanded/compounded it I'd have an old school enamel finish to be proud of. As it is now that worktruck white is so bright on a sunny day you can't see my backyard metal repairs at all :rolleyes:
 
K85 Octane said:
I don't know about the shine. When I did my truck, I just sprayed the bare metal spots, let dry, then applied two coats of oil Rusto. Two coats covered well enough, if you want to wet sand and buff, start on the 3rd coat and continue through the 5th or 6th.
Click to expand...

I think I may like the orange peel look! kinda like a rhino line.....

but I think the shine is the major thing holding me back from it... I wonder if I sand it a little after its dried if that may remove some shine?..

evolve991 said:
After 20 cans of Rusto spray bomb I got brave and tried the roll on with foam rollers. :waytogo: 8 hours after my "omigod I ROONED it" moment the lines had layed down and I had a beautiful shiny finish complete with orange peel. I'm sure if (when) I had gone further and wet sanded/compounded it I'd have an old school enamel finish to be proud of. As it is now that worktruck white is so bright on a sunny day you can't see my backyard metal repairs at all :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I have heard that a lot! trying it out for the first time, then freaking out cause they thought they ruined it; only to come out the next morning with it looking great!
 
This is the gloss grey.




Brand new. The shine has come down a tad, especially when it's dirty.


 
Back in my teens I painted my '63 VW bug,a '63 VW Bus,and a '56 Chevy pickup by hand ,with a foam paint roller and hand brushes,using either Rustoleum or enamel tractor paint I bought at a Farm Supply store,probably the same thing --back then paint was still cheap,about 20 bucks a gallon,and they still allowed lead in enamels,the Rustoleum had a fish oil base that flowed out nicely if it was warm enough..

I painted all three of those vehicles in August,when it was 90+ degrees and humid,probably the worst conditions if you were using laquer and a paint gun,it would blush and get moisture trapped under the paint--but the enamel loved the heat--I used to get the vehicle warm in the sun,then parked it in the shade,I used a tarp draped over an old canopy frame as a crude paint booth...the enamel flowed out nicely on the warm steel,most of the roller and brush marks practically dissapeared on their own...it took at least 3-4 coats to get a good coverage,and no "blotches" though...it was a bit tricky,you had to be fast,if it started drying when you were halfway across the hood or roof,you'd end up with a "line" or lap ,or it might look lighter or darker on one side VS the other...

Once the paint cured fully,which took a good 4-5 months around here,before you could do any wet sanding or buffing on it,or wax it,I would go buy a gallon of 3M "Super-Duty" rubbing compound,and several lambs wool buffing wheels for my buffer,and I polished out as much of the brush marks and roller texture as possible...my '56 Chevy truck came out the best,I painted it gloss black,and painted the bumpers and grille with Rustoleum "Sun Yellow"...it looked almost as good as a Maaco paint job from 10 feet away.everyone called it "the bumblebee"...my '63 VW Bus I painted bright red on the bottom,white on the upper half and roof...it came out decent too...the paint still looked nice on them 3 years later too,the VW Beetle I painted had to be buffed out again after 2 years,it was gloss red,and had started and chalking & fading a bit from sun exposure...it looked freshly painted again after buffing it..

I never was much good at using rattle cans,I never got a good even coat with those,it always ran,or came out blotchy...thats when I got disgusted enough to use the rollers and brushes--mostly I just wanted my vehicles all one color,not a primer spotted leapord,and to keep rust from getting any worse!..spray paint is so thin rust comes back in no time..

I never have been too anal about paint or body work--while I liked having a nice rust free vehicle with a mint paint job,I have owned maybe ONE that fit that description...on my trucks and old cars,that I was likely to take off roading or use for "work",I did not want something "too nice" I'd be afraid of scratching or using...show vehicles are nice,but thats ALL you can do with them,is "show" them,really..
 
in 1992 i painted my truck with 20 cans of flat black... after a bit of oxidation the paint would smear off onto your hand or whatever.. it was a pain in the a$$..

this round I just wanted to stop the surface rust and get a blue truck..

tractor supply store..

sacrilege i know....
Ford Blue on a Chevy... :haha:

but whata ya think?

oh less than $50 with the hardner.. now I may paint it again.. i did the spray cans (they sell same color) last on the inner door and fenders and that messed me up as it is a slight different color since it doesnt have the hardener...

I sanded the surface rust and primered truck again...

From

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during

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to

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big ass flaps - reinstalled

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Looks great from here!....just dont say "FORD BLUE" too loud near it when someone asks what color you used..it might seek revenge!..

I painted my 1981 G-10 van Ford Blue with paint intended for farm tractors back in the late 90's...I tried using a Wagner electric spray gun,but found it left too much orange peel,so I used a spray gun a guy at a body shop was going to chuck in a dumpster when he forgot to clean it,it was a "Sharpe" clone made in tiwan he used for primer only..I took it home and soaked it in thinner and took it all apart and made it work...I'm no painter,but I did OK,only a few "curtains" here and there,that I left,to add charecter..

It has faded and gotten chalky now,but I bet with a good buff job,it would come back shiny again...the paint seems to have held rust at bay pretty well too,spots I brazed patches on and bondoed didn't bubble up and rust right away,it has sat since 2003 and it wasn't till a few years ago,the rust came up from underneath in a few spots and popped the bondo off...if I had not painted it I'm sure the roof and lower panels would have rotted off it long ago...

I used mobile home aluminum roof coating on the roof,it lasted a long time,but it did leave streaks of brown residue on the body--I'd use bedliner if I ever did another van roof..paint burns right off and lets it rust in a year--back then they didn't have Herculiner yet or I'd have used that instead..
 
That looks like a decent paint job!

I will probably end up rolling it on, I'll just have to live with the gloss I guess...or maybe I can spray krylon over rustoleum later on?
 
you can buy flat rusto, well, at least black.. it's what's on Mutt's flatbed...
 
I'd avoid thinning Rustoleum unless your spraying it--if its above 60 degrees it probably wont need thinner anyway--Rustoleum sells their own brand of thinner,I'd try to stick with all the same brands of products to avoid troubles with incompatability...basically its just Naptha..

I have thinned Rustoleum with gas to paint frames and parts I'm not concerned with gloss,so it will dry fast...it comes out flat usually..but it wouldn't be a good idea to use gas on a complete paint job--or indoors!..

We used to have a clear "flattening agent" at the parts stores paint mixing rack,for some colors used in interiors,you can probably still find that somewhere...you'd add about a pint per gallon to kill the gloss..

According to "Ricks Restoration" on TV,you can add Corn Starch to paint to flatten it too,I've never tried it,and dont know if I'd want to put that thru a spray gun..for a roller or brush job it'd be OK I guess..
 
I was thinking of getting that stuff and just a pint of rusto and painting a scrap panel to see the difference of plain rusto and rusto with the "thinner" but using a roller and paint brush for each test. Just to see if it made a difference. Cheap enough experiment.
 
eh, all paint can use from at least a splash of thinner.. even if it's only 5%... pretty sure rusto calls for mineral spirits.. it helps it lay out tremendously as opposed to straight out of the can...

roll and tip to a nice finish? much thinner and more coats.... heck, I got 2 boot stripe jobs this spring I'll be doing that on...


funny you posted that stuff.. I'm not familiar with that product line from them (probably just a slow reducer), but Penetrol has another "miracle in a can" product for the marine industry that I ABSOLUTELY despise.. :mad:

it's this "clear" type product you spread on gelcoat to make it shine... as opposed to working and buffing, you just wipe this cr@p on.. it looks decent for about a month, but than looks like poo, and it's a bloody nightmare to get back off.... takes a combo of scrubbing with thinner than buffing with orange compound to get the sh*t off... :doah: :haha:
 
That stuff states something like, "reduces brush marks" and "for oil based paints". I figure it's cheap enough to try out. A buddy had a white s10 that's peeling bad. I think we are going to do a roll and tip white rusto job on it. Another buddy has a red and white woods truck k that I think we are going to do a red and white rusto job on. We know it's not a nice looking, long lasting paint job, but at least they won't look like **** anymore!
 
reducers usually come in slow, med and fast... or hot weather, normal and cold...

the slower reducers will always help the most with brush strokes... has more time to flow out....

yeah, let her rip... :waytogo: rusto is always a cheap alternative that looks good from 20'..... for awhile....
 
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