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i know its a dead horse but its axle questions

Streetgliderx

1/2 ton status
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ok i am ridin on 10b with 4.56s and 35"s aint broke nothin to date cept the gov bomb... so what i want to know is what kinda axles should i hunt for? i REALLY like my rallies and my 35"s can i keep my rallies and get some tougher axles?? or can i pimp out the 10b and handle all the small stuff like jerkin drunks out of mudholes and ditches at 3am??
 
ok i am ridin on 10b with 4.56s and 35"s aint broke nothin to date cept the gov bomb... so what i want to know is what kinda axles should i hunt for? i REALLY like my rallies and my 35"s can i keep my rallies and get some tougher axles?? or can i pimp out the 10b and handle all the small stuff like jerkin drunks out of mudholes and ditches at 3am??


Not sure who makes the best 10 bolt aftermarket shafts. Several companies though.

In the end, it mostly depends on how you drive it as to how long they will last. Stock ones can last you a long time if you drive it right.

Leave the drunks in the ditches. Safer that way.:wink1:
 
money is no object you can convert a dana 60 to 6lug and also a 14ff to 6 lug to keep your ralleys.

but if you have broken nothing other than gov-bom then good for you. just keep good namebrand parts inside like spicer ujoints or better and possible shafts when ready of the 4340 chro molly style. then have fun. but if begger than 35 and hard playin i would go bigger like 1tons and go 8 lug rims.
 
i took the drunks keys so they wouldnt be any danger later..... but has anyone here converted to 6lug on the ton gear?
 
What about a 14B SF? I have seen plenty of them with the 6 lug bolt pattern in 88 and newer half tons and LD 3/4tons. wouldnt be too hard to retrofit one into an older chevy.
 
would the 14bsf be a much better upgrade? i can get one for bout 250 out of a 93 truck...6 lug... but i'll have to cut and weld the spring hangars in and possibly shock mounts....... just what would have to be done to a 14bff to make it a 6 lug?(besides cut two off. lol).... and lastly i have a eaton HO72 with matchin gears in it it was a single wheel truck but i kinda weary bout hangin it under the k5 since i know nothing much bout it
 
If you want 6 lugs, either stick with the 10 bolts, or get a 14SF.

Gov-locks really are the weak link in the 10 bolts. You may break other parts with them in the rear, but by far the gov-lock is the worst aspect of the 10 bolt.

If you want the beef, then go 14FF, and new wheels/front setup. I'd wager to say that in most cases, the 14SF is strong enough to hang with the FF. You just don't hear of failures with them, again with the exception of the gov-lock.
 
well i done rid myself of the gov bomb thanks to a burn out on the 35"s...... so i just open rear now!
 
The problem with Gov locs when they blow is the small pieces that tend to punch holes in the diff cover and pump out the gear oil. I've had to cut carriers out of axles before where this had happened. Go spend some $$ on an open carrier and a loc-rite or a good clutch type positive traction unit.
 
you mis understood guys the gov bomb done went boom and i just replaced it with an open carrier from another ride... it works good but kinda sucks with a 1 wheel wonder.... but its easier on the asphalt!
 
Gov locs are factory posi tracks that came in 10bolts, 12bolts and 14bolts. They are often refered to as "gov bombs" because they dont like big tires.
 
they look like this


100_2134.jpg

100_2139.jpg
 
Well shoot, i had thought it was an eaton, but i looked at the P/O reciepts, and all it says is
Chevy diff assy - parts $1,187 and that is not including the $400 he paid in labor.
Im going to call the company, and see what info i can get about the parts they used.
 

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